Trailer wieght capacity(3500lb axle vs 7000)

[El Wood]

Get a dump trailer! I just went through the same thing... I had a 7000# dual axel utility trailer that could only carry 3700 lbs on it. My tractor that will be arriving in a few weeks is going to weigh in around 5500 lbs. I started looking at dumps and found out they are tanks! Mine is a 14000# with 10000 lbs carry capacity. I would take a look at them! Plus, who wouldn't want to own their own dump truck!!

 

[medic0648]

What size vehicle do you have and how much does the tractor and the heaviest implement you have/might ever get weigh. Some states will nail you if your vehicle is "too small" for the load. Also be careful if you have to cross state lines with it and in certain states. If your GCWR(gross combined weight rating) hits 26,001lb you can end up with some very big tickets without a CDL. Most newer 1 ton trucks it is very easy to do. I do it with my 95 f-350 and a 12k trailer(also have a class A CDL.

 

[medic0648]

PS just crossing a state line with the equipment will take you out of farm exemption for the weight and into commercial vehicle status very quickly. Also VERY big $$$$ in tickets if you don't have your CDL B or higher and possibly get your equipment impounded for even more $$$. I know this because I was working as a wrecker driver and got several good tows with this exact issue.

 

[LHS Inc]

Yea, a 6K or 7K axled trailer is what you need. You must remember that if a trailer has say 2 6K axles it will have a GVWR (gross vehicle wheel rating) of 12K but you must subtract the trailers weight from that which will be in the 2,800# neighborhood. This leaves you with about 9,000# to work with.

A 55HP tractor with a FEL and say a 6' bush hog on the 3 point is going to weight in at 7,000# or so without filled tires.

To give you a example, my 28HP Jinma with a FEL and Bush Hog plus loaded rears and 4 33# suit case weights on the front is 5,400#. My trailer is a 18' with 2 3.5K axles and it weighs 1,400# empty so that leaves me with only 5,600# for payload so its maxed out.

Buy the right trailer the first time. Make sure its 3-4' longer than the tractor with the FEL at rest on the ground so it can be balanced for proper tongue weight. My guess is you are looking at a 20' trailer or so.

Chris

Here's my JD 3520 w/FEL and RC 1060 on my 18' 10,000 lb trailer.

You'll see all I went thru to get it to fit but it does.

The only issue I have is balancing the load on the trailer. No room for adjustment. I need the bucket for stability on slopes I'm mowing so thats why thats on the trailer.

Every other implement fits fine for balance its just that the Rotory Cutter takes up the most room and thats what I'm hauling on a regular basis right now.

Thinking about getting a 22' trailer to better balance the load. Wouldn't take as long to load either. Just chain it down and go.

 

[meburdick]

That 3520 looks like it's awfully far forward (putting a lot of tongue weight on the truck). A 22' trailer would probably be much better for you.

To choose a trailer, you need to understand that there are a lot of things that work together.

- How much does the cargo weigh? Add tractor, loader, mower, ballast box, tire ballast, etc. Total up EVERYTHING that you might carry. Then add a few hundred pounds to cover yourself for chains, ratcheting tensioners, spare tire, etc.
- How long is your machine from tip to tail? Add 2 to 3 feet to this measurement at a minimum to allow for adjusting the position of the load. Getting the weight placed correctly on the trailer is KEY to safe hauling.
- What are your state's requirements for brakes? Personally, I would not consider buying a trailer without brakes on all axles. The minimal difference in cost is absolutely worth it.
- What is the towing capacity and tongue weight capacity of your tow vehicle? Will you need a weight distributing hitch in order to be under the tongue weight limits?
- Does any prospective trailer have D-Rings and / or stake pockets for securing cargo?
- Do you have the right hitch for your receiver to handle the GTWR (Gross Trailer Weight Rating) of the trailer? Drop-forged hitches and some of the Reese tri-ball hitches are the only ones rated to handle over 5,000 - 5,500 pounds GTWR and the corresponding 10% tongue weight.
- How much does the trailer itself weigh versus it's gross weight rating? The difference is the cargo capacity.
- What GTWR does the trailer carry from the manufacturer? MANY (most?) trailers that are 10k and up are rated for the dealer's lot at UNDER 10k GTWR. This is done for registration purposes to ensure that there is no need for CDL and such. If the trailer is actually built to handle more, you'll at least know that you'll never be over-loading according to its ability if you're staying under the legal load limit.

 

[meburdick]

Due to your proximity to them, you could look at Kaufman Trailers. They might be cost-effective in the size you need. I ruled them out solely on price, but some folks have them and like them. I, personally, have an Anderson trailer (andersontrailers.com). They're in GA so they might be cost-effective as well. Very well built, IMHO.

The CAM SuperLine trailers appear to be the most "equipped" if you add on the fork carrier, the chain basket, and the battery charger. But, they're pricey and heavy.

 

[dstig1]

I would echo earlier posters - I have the smallest Grand L, and it is too heavy to carry on a 7k trailer. Mine is 10k which works fine, though at 16' it is really a bit too short. I would recommend at least 20'

 

[JIGBUILDER]

My 50 hp blue tractor/14.9-28 filled tires with a fel and a 6' mower on my 10k trailer weighs 9640 on the trailers axles with 980 on the ball.

The 10k 18' trailer weighs 2420 lbs gross and has two 5200 lb axles with ST235/80-16 E tires at 3500 lbs each.

A 7k GVWR trailer with two 3500 lb axles may weigh 1750 lbs which leaves approx 5200-5300 lbs for the tractor.

My BIL just bought a new '12 50 hp Kubota 4wd/bucket/6' mower/BB/package deal and all of of sitting a wimpy 7k trailer with 3500 lb axles and 15" C tires. Hes already busted the center on one wheel/broke one spring hanger/bent the frame with 4 tires leaning in at the top. He's using my 10k trailer till the dealer get a 12k trailer in.

 

[LHS Inc]

That 3520 looks like it's awfully far forward (putting a lot of tongue weight on the truck). A 22' trailer would probably be much better for you.

To choose a trailer, you need to understand that there are a lot of things that work together.

- How much does the cargo weigh? Add tractor, loader, mower, ballast box, tire ballast, etc. Total up EVERYTHING that you might carry. Then add a few hundred pounds to cover yourself for chains, ratcheting tensioners, spare tire, etc.
- How long is your machine from tip to tail? Add 2 to 3 feet to this measurement at a minimum to allow for adjusting the position of the load. Getting the weight placed correctly on the trailer is KEY to safe hauling.
- What are your state's requirements for brakes? Personally, I would not consider buying a trailer without brakes on all axles. The minimal difference in cost is absolutely worth it.
- What is the towing capacity and tongue weight capacity of your tow vehicle? Will you need a weight distributing hitch in order to be under the tongue weight limits?
- Does any prospective trailer have D-Rings and / or stake pockets for securing cargo?
- Do you have the right hitch for your receiver to handle the GTWR (Gross Trailer Weight Rating) of the trailer? Drop-forged hitches and some of the Reese tri-ball hitches are the only ones rated to handle over 5,000 - 5,500 pounds GTWR and the corresponding 10% tongue weight.
- How much does the trailer itself weigh versus it's gross weight rating? The difference is the cargo capacity.
- What GTWR does the trailer carry from the manufacturer? MANY (most?) trailers that are 10k and up are rated for the dealer's lot at UNDER 10k GTWR. This is done for registration purposes to ensure that there is no need for CDL and such. If the trailer is actually built to handle more, you'll at least know that you'll never be over-loading according to its ability if you're staying under the legal load limit.

Very informative.

 

[meburdick]

Very informative.

I appreciate the comment, but I know that it isn't a complete list of considerations. Those are, to me, the most important things to think about because they were the major parts of deciding on what trailer would best suit my needs.

You'll notice that I didn't include things like trailer "features" (I *really* wanted the CAM with the fork bracket option, but it was a lot more expensive than my Anderson and I couldn't justify the cost), dealer experience (for new trailers), or the ultimate deciding factor - cost.

The biggest thing that I learned when shopping for my trailer is that there are a number of different variables that need to be considered together as a whole since some variables will affect others if you change their values.