Trailering a 4110

Ira · Jul 6, 2005

I took delivery of a 4110, 200CX FEL, pallet forks, and 60"MMM about 10 days ago. I'm going to be trailering it to another location about 15 miles down the highway pretty regularly. I did a search to get recommendations for securing the tractor/implements, but didn't see anything very specific on where on the tractor to attach the straps/chains.

My trailer is 16'X7' with a diamond steel plate bed. I am willing to add more D-rings to the trailer as necessary. It also has four stake pockets on each side (no rails, it's a car hauler).

Without getting into the straps vs. chains issues (which are already heavily discussed on this board), where do you guys attach to on the tractor for this or similar size models? It looks like there are a couple of square holes near the tow bar (in the tow bar "frame") that I can hook up to if I don't have a 3ph implement attached. I will often be trailering with a 48" box blade or rake, so what's the best way to attach with either of those on?

I will probably always have the FEL on it, sometimes with the bucket, and other times with the pallet forks (and the bucket "strapped" to the pallet forks while in transit). I don't see any really good places that I can attach on the tractor/FEL and still have a straight pull at a good angle (foward and out) down to the trailer bed without rubbing up against something on the FEL.

It doesn't look like there is any room to attach to either axle. I want to use four attach points, one near each corner.

Pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ira

GeneD14 · Jul 6, 2005

I didn't have a good place to chain my tractor down either so I added these bolt on hooks to the grill guard. I cross the chains in an X pattern when I chain it down.

GeneD14 · Jul 6, 2005

Another method that I have used to chain down a tractor that works good is: find a bolt hole in the frame or axle that you can thread a high strength eye bolt or similar hardware.

em14 · Jul 6, 2005

The other day I was on a 4 lane highway in North Florida (US 301) when I met a guy hauling A--- and I noticed he was pulling a JD CUT, with his pick-up, on an attached trailer. Now that you see a lot ... but what you don't see often, thank goodness, was the way he had tied down. He had one Bright Yellow Strap going across the tractors hood and attached to the sides of the trailer. To handle the rear ... he had a Bright Yellow Strap going across the seat and attached to the sides of the trailer. He was gone in a minute! I hope he got off the road soon after and made it safely to where ever he was going!
Leo

garchib · Jul 6, 2005

The other day I was on route 95 north in Massachusetts and saw rubber marks going across 3 of 4 lanes on the highway ......leading to a 3/4 ton Chevy pickup pointing backwards on the grass on the side of the road with a flipped trailer and skid steer /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

RedRocker · Jul 7, 2005

I attached tow hooks below my brush guard and run my front chain through them.

Bob_Skurka · Jul 7, 2005

I believe the laws may require wrapping the AXLE if you do not use D.O.T. approved tie down points. That may only apply to commercial transport but I'm not sure that I would do it any other way. I see we have a couple people who added hooks and use those, but what grade are the hooks? Or the bolts that hold them on? And is the part that they are attached to strong enough to hold the tractor if you slam on the brakes and slide sideways? There is a lot to consider. And there is a lot of liability to incur if you don't take the safe way. For the minor cost of axle wrap straps, I think that is the best way. I know on the rear of my TC24 there is minimal room to wrap the axle, but it can be done. The B2910 is easier to wrap. You can find a way if you think about it. I guess there is an "easy way" and a "right way" and you always know in your heart/mind what the right way is, the hard part is doing it.

EDIT, please keep in mind that I own a truck fleet and constantly worry about liability issues and D.O.T. complaince, so I may be overly cautious when I move my personal tractors. However, I still believe what I wrote is the "right" way to do it, even if it is a pain in the rear to do it that way all the time.

GeneD14 · Jul 7, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I see we have a couple people who added hooks and use those, but what grade are the hooks? Or the bolts that hold them on? )</font>

I will try to answer these questions:
Each hook that I show in the picture is rated at 10,000 lbs max working load. Each hook has two 5/8" grade 8 bolts rated at 36,524 lbs tensile each. I use G70 5/16" transport chain which is rated at 4,700 lbs working load. So the chain in this example is clearly the weakest point, not the hooks.
2 years ago I was going about 60 mph on the highway and had to lock up the breaks and bring the truck, trailer and a 3.5 ton tractor to a dead stop to avoid hitting a car that pulled in front of me. Yes everything held and stayed tight, thank God.
I think the axle straps sound like a great idea, I'll check into them. When it comes to safety I am willing to put pride aside and look for the safest solution.