Thanks all for the infor. I guess I have more options than I realized. I had not considered an aluminum trailer. I forgot to mention that the 3,000 pound gvw hitch is the maximum hitch that my vehicle is rated to carry (4 wheel drive Isuzu Trooper). I called the hitch people and they confirmed that. It also says the maximum gvw goes up to 4,000 pounds if I have a load distributor - am not familiar with them. For the most part, I would only be pulling vehicle about 40 miles over fairly level roads to some land that I have purchased out of town - so from that perspective I might get by with a single axle. Width is also an issue (narrower better) since I need to be able to get the trailer between a drainage ditch and my house (will store in the back of my lot in town) Need to get busy now and pursue my options. Thanks again all.
Trailering a Power-Trac
- Thread starter hoaglagd
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KentT
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I forgot to mention that the 3,000 pound gvw hitch is the maximum hitch that my vehicle is rated to carry (4 wheel drive Isuzu Trooper). I called the hitch people and they confirmed that. It also says the maximum gvw goes up to 4,000 pounds if I have a load distributor - am not familiar with them. )</font>
Well, for about $250 then, you can go from 3000 to 4000 lbs -- and that opens up a whole lot of option. A weight distributing hitch is designed to transfer some of the weight of a trailer's tongue onto the frame and front wheels of a tow vehicle -- rather than behind the bumper...
Here's the variety made by Hidden Hitch -- the brand I own simply because it was the least expensive "name brand" I could find. They offer them for all kinds of trailers.
Hidden Hitch
This page describes and explains them:
About Weight Distribution Hitches
I bought mine on sale at JC Whitney for $249 at a time when one of their specials was free shipping -- and these things are heavy.
I'm not trying to sell you one, nor this specific brand -- only to illustrate how that opens up even more options for you...
Well, for about $250 then, you can go from 3000 to 4000 lbs -- and that opens up a whole lot of option. A weight distributing hitch is designed to transfer some of the weight of a trailer's tongue onto the frame and front wheels of a tow vehicle -- rather than behind the bumper...
Here's the variety made by Hidden Hitch -- the brand I own simply because it was the least expensive "name brand" I could find. They offer them for all kinds of trailers.
Hidden Hitch
This page describes and explains them:
About Weight Distribution Hitches
I bought mine on sale at JC Whitney for $249 at a time when one of their specials was free shipping -- and these things are heavy.
I'm not trying to sell you one, nor this specific brand -- only to illustrate how that opens up even more options for you...
tracdoc
Platinum Member
Without knowing more specifics on your Trooper (year, etc), I could only estimate your vehicle's GVWR.
3,000# sounded kinda' low for a beefy vehicle like a Trooper. In fact, I found the GVWR for an '01 standard Trooper to be 5,510# {HERE}. What is limiting you right now, is NOT the capacity of your vehicle, but the capacity of your current hitch.
As you noted, you can upgrade to a weight distributing arrangement on your current hitch to gain another 1,000#. Alternatively, for about the same (or less) money, you could remove your current hitch (and sell it to recoup some $) and install a 5,000# rated hitch. A 2" square "receiver" type hitch is mandatory IMO. Not that you will be towing 5,000#, but there's the unwritten "rule" in towing to go with a decent margin of over-capacity. The reason is that if there is a sudden mal-event (a swerve, fish-tailing on a slippery road, or even a sudden impact stop) the forces on the hitch go up tremendously, and those forces could snap the ball or the hitch itself. The same goes for the tie-downs. The "working load" for a tie-down is for a smooth towing condition. If you suddenly stop, the momentum of your load can easily out-strip the capacity of your straps, and "pop!" /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif your load becomes a missile. A 5G impact with a 2,000# load will put a 10,000# stress on the tie down. I found this "towing & tie-downs 101" to be very helpful {HERE}
I think you can manage with a single axle (3,500# w/ 15" wheel) to meet your requirements. Just to be safe, I would make sure that the trailer has brakes (at least surge, but electric better), and that the straps and hardware are sufficiently over-capacity. You'll tow more confidently and more importantly you'll be safer.
3,000# sounded kinda' low for a beefy vehicle like a Trooper. In fact, I found the GVWR for an '01 standard Trooper to be 5,510# {HERE}. What is limiting you right now, is NOT the capacity of your vehicle, but the capacity of your current hitch.
As you noted, you can upgrade to a weight distributing arrangement on your current hitch to gain another 1,000#. Alternatively, for about the same (or less) money, you could remove your current hitch (and sell it to recoup some $) and install a 5,000# rated hitch. A 2" square "receiver" type hitch is mandatory IMO. Not that you will be towing 5,000#, but there's the unwritten "rule" in towing to go with a decent margin of over-capacity. The reason is that if there is a sudden mal-event (a swerve, fish-tailing on a slippery road, or even a sudden impact stop) the forces on the hitch go up tremendously, and those forces could snap the ball or the hitch itself. The same goes for the tie-downs. The "working load" for a tie-down is for a smooth towing condition. If you suddenly stop, the momentum of your load can easily out-strip the capacity of your straps, and "pop!" /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif your load becomes a missile. A 5G impact with a 2,000# load will put a 10,000# stress on the tie down. I found this "towing & tie-downs 101" to be very helpful {HERE}
I think you can manage with a single axle (3,500# w/ 15" wheel) to meet your requirements. Just to be safe, I would make sure that the trailer has brakes (at least surge, but electric better), and that the straps and hardware are sufficiently over-capacity. You'll tow more confidently and more importantly you'll be safer.
Thanks for the info. Actually, the hitch I have is a "Hidden Hitch" model. It was supposed to be the heaviest hitch I could get for the vehicle. This is an older trooper (1991) that I keep for towing a boat. I think the old troopers were considerably smaller than newer troopers, so it all makes since. I have found a place locally that will build me a 5x13 trailer with tandem axles and 1 brake axle for $1550. The trailer will have 3500# axles and its total weight will be around 1000#. Its really a single axle trailer with an extra axle. The single axle version is rated for 3500# gvw. It will also cost me an additional $230 to get a brake controller installed on my vehicle. I will pursue the load equalizer. If it isn't too expensive, it may be worth the added margin of safety.
KentT
Elite Member
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Sounds like you're certainly on the right track. I don't think you'll regret getting a tandem...
tracdoc
Platinum Member
Wow! That sounds like a great unit and a sweet price.
You can get a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller for about $100 {HERE}. Since your vehicle is a '91 it may not be pre-wired for brake controller as are the later model trucks and some SUVs. The wiring may run you a few more bucks. I had my Tacoma wired for around $65. My current truck was pre-wired.
Good luck, and post some pictures when you get that new trailer /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
You can get a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller for about $100 {HERE}. Since your vehicle is a '91 it may not be pre-wired for brake controller as are the later model trucks and some SUVs. The wiring may run you a few more bucks. I had my Tacoma wired for around $65. My current truck was pre-wired.
Good luck, and post some pictures when you get that new trailer /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
BobRip
Elite Member
I would definately go with the brakes. You might even consider brakes on both axles. I paid around $150 for brakes on the second axle. I have brakes on both axles of the tow vehicle, so it makes sense to put them on the trailer. While reading some Chrysler literature, I noticed that they recommend brakes on any trailer over 1000 pounds, even thought the state of Va. only requires them at over 2800#.
Just to back this up, I was pulling my old trailer (no brakes) down a hill on my road and came to a turn, When I applied the brakes on the car the trailer started to fishtail and meanwhile a car appears around the turn. I got it under control, but just barely. I bought a new trailer with brakes in a few months.
Take care,
Bob Rip
Just to back this up, I was pulling my old trailer (no brakes) down a hill on my road and came to a turn, When I applied the brakes on the car the trailer started to fishtail and meanwhile a car appears around the turn. I got it under control, but just barely. I bought a new trailer with brakes in a few months.
Take care,
Bob Rip
KentT
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Uh-oh! Completely off topic thread-jacking here...
I like those Simplicity Tractors! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I've got a late 60's Yeoman 627. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif )</font>
Then you should like this shot of my trailer enroute to the "Gathering of the Orange" show in NY last year... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
That's a 1969 Allis B-210 (now 'customized" with a late-model hydro tranny and 16 HP) on the left, a 1966 Allis Big Ten on the right that I assembled from 3 parts tractors. On the back is the cherry, original 1968 Simplicity Sovereign 3012V that prompted me to go to Minnesota and haul it back. It actually came from SW Wisconsin, nust across the river, but I went on over to MN to visit friends and pick up more stuff to help pay for the trip...
I sold the Big Ten with a FEL on it, in order to buy the Kubota, which I sold to buy the PT...
I like those Simplicity Tractors! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I've got a late 60's Yeoman 627. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif )</font>
Then you should like this shot of my trailer enroute to the "Gathering of the Orange" show in NY last year... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
That's a 1969 Allis B-210 (now 'customized" with a late-model hydro tranny and 16 HP) on the left, a 1966 Allis Big Ten on the right that I assembled from 3 parts tractors. On the back is the cherry, original 1968 Simplicity Sovereign 3012V that prompted me to go to Minnesota and haul it back. It actually came from SW Wisconsin, nust across the river, but I went on over to MN to visit friends and pick up more stuff to help pay for the trip...
I sold the Big Ten with a FEL on it, in order to buy the Kubota, which I sold to buy the PT...
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MossRoad
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Look at those big, beautiful bug eyes! Nice tractors. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
cqaigy
Silver Member
Hey, those are some pretty cool looking tractors!!
