Trailering: Anybody using Tow & Stow?

Rolando · Nov 1, 2005

Can you expand on what the purpose and benefit of the BullDog coupler is? I've googled and found several examples of it, but I don't understand the difference between that and the A-frame 2-5/16" coupler that comes with my trailer. Also, I'm not sure how the BullDog coupler could be installed on my trailer. I've attached some pictures of it from brochures, although the hitch doesn't show up that well.

I don't understand why the trailer wouldn't come with the type of coupler that's appropriate for a 9,600 lb-rated trailer. It looks to be a good quality trailer otherwise.

SkyPup · Nov 2, 2005

The triangular coupler with the ball head attachment appears to look fine in that photograph, however there does not appear to be the cam installation for the weight distributing rods that attach to the couple neck, which are required for the weight distributing hitch attachment to the trailer's yoke.

Go back and look at the Draw-Tite site again and see the description of the weight distributing hitch setup. In addition to the specific heavy duty forged weight distributing ball hitch which slips into your square Class IV receiver on the end of your Yukon, there are also cam attachments on both sides of the trailer yoke for the attachment of the 1,000 pound weight distributing hitch cam rods to the trailer.

The coupler is a bolt on unit, as are the cam attachments. I would imagine that your coupler is capable of handling the load, you just need the installation of the cam attachments on the trailer's yoke if you do not already have them present.

Assuming that the trailer is setup for what it is that you are doing is NOT the proper way to approach this. You should assume that your trailer is NOT setup properly and proceed from there.

Take your trailer to J.D. Sanders or Texas Trailers over there on 441 behind your Yukon and have them install a Weight Distributing Hitch for you. You do not need anything else besides the electrical brake controller unit installation. They are both fully capable of doing this with out any problems.

KentT · Nov 2, 2005

Bulldog, first of all, is a brand name, as is Coke or Kleenex... it describes a different method of clamping the coupler to the hitch ball. The advantage of the Bulldog, as I understand it, is that it automatically adjusts for any wear of either the ball or the the coupler.

A Bulldog coupler is not required for any specific size of trailer, as far as I know. It is a preference (and recommendation) of some -- not a requirement. A 2-5/16" A-frame coupler is sufficient, and if it came on the trailer new, as you stated, it should be rated to exceed the 9,600 lb rating of your trailer. It is likely either a 10,000 lb or 12,500 lb rated coupler. It should work fine, especially for occasional use.

Attached is a picture showing a normal A-frame hitch coupler on top and a Bulldog coupler on the bottom.

SkyPup · Nov 2, 2005

I just gave BullDog as an example of a high quality forged high strength trailer ball coupler, which it is.

Certainly there are other brands/models that are capable.

However, the weight distributing cams still need to be installed on the trailer yoke to attach the cams to......

This really isn't rocket science, J.D. Sanders can install the entire setup on the vehicle and trailer in a morning or afternoon and give you instructions how to use it safely and properly.

Rolando · Nov 2, 2005

Thanks, Thom, I'll take it a step at a time. Once I have the trailer, I'll take it over to Sanders and see what they say about the coupler on the trailer.

SkyPup · Nov 3, 2005

It costs around $500 for the weight distributing hitch itself, it is solid forged steel. The brake controller costs about another $100 or so.

They do an excellent job and the Draw-Tite hitch is first class.

jejeosborne · Nov 4, 2005

I haven't seen anyone mention the reason for needing the weight distribution type hitch. The purpose is to maintain a level truck with the necessary tongue weight when hauling heavy loads. It is recommended to have a minimum of 15 percent of you total towed weight on the tongue. An example would be if you were towing 6000 pounds you would need a minimum of 900 pounds of tongue weight. Having this tongue weight will prevent trailer sway. Having 900 pounds of tongue weight that far out behind the rear truck axle would make even a 3/4 ton truck low on the tail. Not only would everyone think your bright lights were always on, but also this condition is very damaging to braking. In an emergency stop the trailer would be pivoting the front tires of the truck off the ground as which are the most important tires for braking.

KentT · Nov 4, 2005

I bought my 8,000 lb-rated Hidden Hitch weight distributing hitch on sale at JC Whitney a while back for $250 with free shipping. They're now a little under $300 (see link below) and there's 6,000lb, 8,000 and 10,000 ratings.

I'm not trying to sell them nor endorsing JC Whitney -- only pointing out that they all don't cost $500. I bought this one because it is still "brand name, made in USA" but not as expensive as some others -- and have been quite pleased.

Your mileage may vary...

Hidden Hitch

KAB · Nov 4, 2005

Please double check your source for tongue weight percentages. All of the information that I have read states for a "dead weight", "Weight distributing", "Bumper Pull", or whatever else you want to call it, states for a 15% max tongue weight or 10% minimum. For Gooseneck and fifth wheels 15-25% pin weight.

Besides that... good reminder that even for 3/4 and 1 ton usually state a maximum (verify year and model for specifics) 7500# dead weight or 750# tongue weight before a WD hitch is required.

NOTE: please remember to verify each vehicle year and model as these numbers can change between year and/or Model. Even if you don't exceed tow capacity you might exceed payload capacity. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

edit:
Please use actual vehicle specs., most hitches state the max for the hitch not the vehicle.

Kurt

jejeosborne · Nov 5, 2005

KAB I agree with the 10-15 percent values being stated but have also seen printed 10 percent minimum. In my experiences I have never had any problems towing with too much tongue weight when using a weight distribution hitch but have many times experienced sway due to not enough tongue weight. This being said, I want to make it clear that I don't exceed the tongue weight rating of the hitch or truck. A good example would be towing a smaller load like a 1500 pound loaded trailer, I don't see any disadvantage of having 300 pounds of tongue weight.

On the flip side of less that 10 percent tongue weight.......... I once owned a small 5x8 tilt trailer that I often used and abused well beyond its capabilities in my younger/dumber days. I hauled 16 foot 6x6's having 8 feet hanging off the back. Keep in mind that this trailer from the factory was perfectly balance with 0 tongue weight. Fortunately my distance from the lumber yard was only 2 miles. I had major negative tongue weight and could not exceed 15 MPH without violent sway. The bad thing about an 8 foot trailer of this design is that even if I hauled 8 foot sheets of plywood the trailer would sway if I drove over 30 MPH and empty it would sway at highway speeds.

To summarize, when I load a trailer I error to the side of more tongue weight.

Also, here is a link to the towing guide which shows vehicle tow ratings.

Towing Guide Towing Guide