Trailering.....

[whistlepig]

Also will his tow vehicle handle and stop the trailer ?

Good question. Before going long haul he should take the truck, trailer, tractor, and his new hookup for trial run out in the country. Hit the brakes real hard. Drive a while and make sure things stay tight. Take some time and get comfortable with the set up. Making emergency adjustments in rush hour traffic many miles from nowhere wouldn't be much fun.

 

[grnspot110]

I have used straps and really frayed them doing a short trip of 20 miles. If you think an edge could cut or fray it will. I couldn't remember where my chains were that day.

I am a big fan of brakes on the trailer powerful enough to stop the trailer and then some. And now my trailer sits useless because my tires are too old to trust. But I have no where to go.

Old fire hose makes excellent chafing pads, check with your local Fire Dept. to see if they have any to throw away! Before I retired, I saved a 50' section each of old 1-1/2" & 3" hose (w/o couplers), comes in handy! Just split a piece of the hose & put it over the strap where you need it.

I use 10,000# straps on my 790 w/loader (around 3000#), much heavier I would use chains. At least 3/8" grade 70! From years of hauling farm machinery, both mine & for a dealer. Never lost anything bigger than a 1206! ~~ grnspot110

 

[sacsr]

As a newbie in this deal I will throw in my 2 cents. Buy the chains....last longer and can be used for other projects (I keep my tractor down on my property chained up to a tree...keeps honest people honest..at least the thieves will have to work at it).......you are tying down the tractor to protect yourself and others....a lose projectile going down the street can not be good for anyone involved. I put my tractor's weight toward the back of the trailer more centered on the dual tires rather than all the way up front....I don't want too much weight on the back of my vehicle. The first few times you pull the load will be a little unnerving.....I have pulled alot of small trailers...but not with that much weight pushing you forward.....trailer brakes are imperative.....mine were not working one day and I had to come to a quick stop....that tractor and trailer pushing me along was not a good thing....fortunate for me everything worked out but it was close...... I always check my trailer brakes before leaving now.
I bought my ratchets from Northern tools on sale....chains were from harbor freight...probably an over kill for my little tractor...but I think it will still be on the trailer if I am in accident which is important to me.....I will visit my local fire department soon to see if I can pick up some old pieces of hoses....I don't like the chains against my paint.

Go to the transportation and trailering section of this site...search and you can find out how most tie their tractors down.....I would rather be safe than sorry. Good luck on the new tractor. You will be amazed with what you can do with one!

scott

 

[Pete Judd]

I carry 2 10 foot chains, and 2 16 foot chains to carry my 186d on my 16 foot trailer. the troopers here say that you must cross the chains to be legal. I bought my binders at harbor freight for around 20 bucks apiece X 4 and I carry a 4 foot chunk of pipe to pull everything together. Make shure that you load the weight forward or you will be going down the road with the tail waging the dog.

 

[whodat526]

i always use straps unless have to much equipment on trailer and have to use my chains because if u put the loader and bushog down flat and the trailer a chain can and binder can be to tight to close the binder are bind something are move it one link down the chain and to loose and just scratches everything up i have never lost anything so for using straps and i have hauled up to 150hp tractors it is just in how u strap the tractor i would but a strap every six to eight feet on everything i haul

 

[jgrreed]

Absolutely on ensuring your trailer and truck are working well. Go for a cruise and practice a bit - slowing down, how much time you need to get up to speed when you cross or enter a busy highway. Practice backing up, and turning wide to avoid gate corner posts and pedestrians on the corner. Know how to engage the trailer brakes on their own if the trailer tries to get ahead of you.

The guy that hauled my tractor from AB to SK for me (on a semi) used some straps on top of the chains... big, expensive looking straps. He used pieces of carpet at rub-stops when the strap crossed anything metal. They were ratcheted down with the ratchet mechanism on the side of the trailer, not a hand ratchet.

Go slow, be careful, leave lots of space, check your mirrors obsessively (several times a minute), and don't forget its back there!! Not kidding about that one, if you balance your trailer right sometimes it'll feel like it's not even there.

-Jer.

 

[tungularafishcamp]

I towed my l2800 up the alcan last year(35 ft boat trailer made into a flat bed for the trip. Chains front and rear and a couple of straps in the middle for good measure. Had to keep retitening the straps they really stretched not sure if it was the 30 below or what. Probably would just do it with chains next time. Had one racheting chain binder the other standard the ratcheting one was great. Also put as much weight in the truck as you can really gave me extra control on the ice and snow. Only had to chain up the truck a couple of times. Only takes a minute to screw in blocking front and rear and it gives a lot more security.
Good Luck
Rick

 

[California]

the troopers here say that you must cross the chains to be legal.

That's an important point, and one not sufficiently emphasized to amateurs (like me). You want to create a side tension using the chains, not a straight down force that could pull the tractor through the floor boards. So you should hook each chain to the far side of the tractor, relative to where the chain meets the trailer.

Seems to me if you don't have enough binders you can chain the back corners of the tractor first then pull some tension with two binders at the front. I've done this but I'm no pro. Comments?

 

[jgrreed]

That's an important point, and one not sufficiently emphasized to amateurs (like me). You want to create a side tension using the chains, not a straight down force that could pull the tractor through the floor boards. So you should hook each chain to the far side of the tractor, relative to where the chain meets the trailer.

That's a good point, I don't do that. Maybe I should...

-Jer.

 

[chopped]

hope you get off to a better start than these guys.
YouTube - trailer troubles in the ghetto.wmv
I do see they use a blancket in the end for safety.:thumbsup: