Trailering.....

   / Trailering..... #21  
You want to create a side tension using the chains, not a straight down force that could pull the tractor through the floor boards. So you should hook each chain to the far side of the tractor, relative to where the chain meets the trailer.

IMO forward and back is more important than side to side. If hooking to the far side of the tractor creates a angle to the trailer rail less than 45 degrees I would not recommend it.
 
   / Trailering..... #23  
A yanmar dealer told me to be aware of the front wheel bearings being weak. Dont crank down the binders so tight.I would think it would be ok to to pull down enough to slightly flatten the tires. I have been expermenting with running the chaines through the back tire slots.
 
   / Trailering..... #24  
A yanmar dealer told me to be aware of the front wheel bearings being weak. Dont crank down the binders so tight.I would think it would be ok to to pull down enough to slightly flatten the tires. I have been expermenting with running the chaines through the back tire slots.

I was taught to always attach to the frame...

I think the thought is that if some REALLY bad ever happened, like you head-on a semi and the rims get ripped off, the tractor doesn't become a 6000lb projectile.

-Jer.
 
   / Trailering..... #25  
I was taught to always attach to the frame...

I think the thought is that if some REALLY bad ever happened, like you head-on a semi and the rims get ripped off, the tractor doesn't become a 6000lb projectile.

-Jer.

I dont think any of us have a 6000lb yanmar. I know many other tractors are in this weight but this is in the yanmar forum and he is getting a yanmar.
 
   / Trailering..... #26  
I'm with jgrreed I had a feeling were this was going to go after making a post/reply early. Esp. since I am Known to show up on Trailers and transportation forum. Hopefully everyone is down to the final shakes by now in this peeing match.:laughing:
To be honest I use both. If I'm staying local I will just strap everything down real good. It won't scratch everything up which I keep carpet scraps as a buffer for the chains. Since I'm from WV. lived in Md. and go through Va. regularly and know the Roads and Highways all to well. If I'm pulling a tractor on the Trailer I'm bringing out the chains. If I'm traveling from Ga. with the speed limit 65 mph. Thats way to fast to secure down equipment that weights a Ton+ with just straps. I have cut and broke straps and lost them trailering the 4 wheelers before. Not me!!!!! I have all kinds of staps If there would be a accident at highway speeds IMO. they will not hold that much weight down period. Implements may be a different story BB. Plow. Mower that doesn't weigh a few hundred Lbs. straps would likely hold. Plus I would rather keep up with a few chains when these straps aren't enough to tie everything down :(
 

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   / Trailering..... #27  
This is what I found works for me. I use 4 racket straps on all four corners. Make sure that straps dont rubbbb anything. I have a clevis on each corner makes it easy to hook to. Straps are 4,000 lbs breaking strength and 1,600 load. So 4 holds my 3500 lbs tractor in place. Pics are where I put the clevies.. I trailer my tractor everytime I use it... :thumbsup:

AndyG
 

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   / Trailering.....
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Thanks guys, a lot of great information. I was thinking of chocks on all four tires, screwed into the deck. I was also thinking of clamping the front edge of the loader down with sheet metal (drilled, then screwed). Then a big-*** ratcheting tie-down strap on bush hog, rear of tractor, front of tractor, and loader. Great advice about re-tightening straps. I have found driving with alumapole staging on my truck racks that after I have tightened 3/4 times, they stop getting loose. I guess it will pay off big not to be in a rush....stop frequently & check. I also have an 8,000 lb boat I trailer, after that the tractor seems not too big. But I don't do a lot of interstate driving with the boat.....I'm gonna watch my *****.
P.S. I think my straps are rated for 10,000 lbs, they're the huge trucker type.
 
   / Trailering..... #29  
I dont think any of us have a 6000lb yanmar. I know many other tractors are in this weight but this is in the yanmar forum and he is getting a yanmar.

the thought is that if some thing REALLY bad ever happened, like you head-on a semi and the rims get ripped off, the tractor doesn't become a 6000lb projectile .

I don't think I would care for a Yanmar projectile either , even if it is lighter than 6000 pounds.
 
   / Trailering..... #30  
Seems to me if you don't have enough binders you can chain the back corners of the tractor first then pull some tension with two binders at the front. I've done this but I'm no pro. Comments?

Each chain has to be able to be adjusted individually. (each must have their own chain binder)

The size and rating of the chain has to equal 1/2 the load. 6,000 lb tractor needs to have chains (or straps) rated for 3,000 lbs. Now the rating of the chain not only depends on the chain rating but how it is used to secure the tractor. If it goes from one side of the trailer to the other you get the full rating of the chain/strap. If you use it to go from one side of the trailer to a point on the tractor back to the same side of the trailer it only counts for 1/2 the rated load.

Also check the ratings on the binders, they must be at least equal to the load of the chain since load securement is figured to the weakest link.

Also anything 10,000 pounds and over needs to be secured at four corners. A strap or chain must also be over the loader if you have one (or back hoe bucket)

These are all federal regulations and do not necessary apply for people towing for private use. It would depend on the state you operate in.
 

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