Transporting BX2350 w/FEL on Utility trailer

[diesel85]

What I would do, is hook it up to the truck, drive it on. Then remove it from the truck, by hand, and try to lift it. If you got about 150-200 lbs on the tongue, you are good. Like the others said, you don't want 0 or negative tongue weight.

Reason I asked about brakes, is because I retrofitted my single axle (same size as yours) with trailer brakes, and it makes it so much nicer to stop. Best mod I ever did to my utility trailer.

However, for equipment hauling, I use my double axle car trailer. Works quite well.

For a brake controller I use the Tekonsha P3. I love it.

Here's a friend's BX2660 I picked up for them:

 

[captronr]

Poster didn't the specs of the trailer. I'm assuming it has a 3500# axle, so would be adequate to haul.

There are many many ways to safely haul our small tractors, and some that are not safe. I used to haul equipment commercially, so I tend to go overboard on gear. I use two 5/16" grade 70 (transport quality) chains and one load binder to haul my BX2200 on a 5x14 single axle trailer, no brakes.

I put a clevis in the tow point on the lower rear and generally drive the tractor on forward. I secure one chain through the clevis (twisted so the tractor can't slide easily) and then secured to stake holes on the trailer. Then roll the tractor forward and secure with a chain and binder.

Years ago (so pics long gone), I built a grill guard for my BX, and at the base was a 2" receiver hitch. Welded to the top of the receiver hitch was a 3/8" chain hook. So it's easy for me to drape the front chain over that and cinch the binder down.

Your ratchets straps sound heavy, but I don't know what their rated strength is. And be sure to not drape them over a sharp edge.

Hope this helps.
Ron

 

[JWR]

Here goes my 2 cents:



This was a BX2200 loaded on a car carrier trailer (which I do not prefer at all...) but you cansee where I put the straps. There is no logic for caring one way or the other whether you back it on versus drive it on so long as you pay attention to tongue load. No matter the type of trailer or load I always measure from the bottom of the ball hitch threads to the ground before loading and then move my load forward until I get around 4" of hunker down of the truck. Of course that varies with the trailer and the load but you get the idea. With a 3/4 ton truck, 4wd you have stiffer rear truck springs and may or may not get 4" of trunck hunker down. Just make sure you have plenty of positive tongue weight. It will fishtail badly if you don't.



This is a B2150 loaded on a 6.5x12 2 wheel trailer. Little overkill with the big chain behind but I consider the MAIN role of the tie downs to be keeping that tractor from running on to the truck in a collision.
By the way, I hauled a BX2200 with MMM from WV to Louisiana (same rig you see here, same tractor seen on the car carrier) with absolutely NO trailer problems of any kind other than foolish tire issues and a worn out hub.
You absolutely do not need to worry about hauling a BX2200 series on a 6.5x12 trailer. I replaced that 6.5x12 with a 6.5x14 and a friend hauled that same BX2200 back to MD from Louisiana on the 14ft trailer using a smaller tow vehicle with ZERO problems. I completely fail to understand the concerns of others about hauling a small yard tractor on a 2 wheel trailer. For one thing there is FAR MORE of that done in the US of A than any other means !! Note that with a Kubota MMM you really need the 6.5 width rather than 6ft width! It will be a force fit in the trailer otherwise.



Here is BX2230 I hauled to a guy around 100 miles away in the Wash DC area. This is that same 6.5x12 trailer (which I had nursed back to useful life after it had been discarded by a landscaper.) In this picture I had not yet tied down the tractor. When I did it was with a very heavy strap in the rear attached to the tractor frame and another in front across the bucket and loader frame. Note i have plenty of tongue weight but it is pulled on forward. Zero problems.


Finally, this is the newer 6.5x14 trailer I bought new in Louisiana. Note the built-in tie-down holes and heavier than std 6 lug wheels. That goes with the upgraded 7000 lb axle. Note also that many mfrs put the wheels further to the rear in trailers to ease/facilitate getting better tongue weight. BY the way, no pictures but I added small pieces of steel cable covered with vinyl tubing (you see that in Tractor Supply, etc.) in loops around the heavy tubular upper frame of the trailer. These loops of cable are placed where any other tie-down would be awkward or difficult and can be relocated if need be. I put 2 on each side.