Tree Puller for hard to get at trees

[em14]

Call me dense, don't get it. I know you don't mean with the tire on it.


Never have tried the rim myself but am sure one side could sink deeper than the other but gee, how precise is pulling trees. Could not one leg sink deeper also?

The rim is the outer part of the wheel which basically retains the tire on the wheel ... I'm picking at you a little bit but now days so many people talk "Rim equals Wheel" which is not true since the rim is a part of the wheel assembly!

 

[Sherweld]

Sorry for the confusion, my error, rim to me means a naked wheel without a rubber tire mounted.

 

[em14]

That was a nice solution to your problem and there was no problem or confusion ... I agree the wheel is also good way to go ....
Leo

 

[Casey1]

I am still a little confused. Should you use just the rim or the entire rim/tire assembly?

 

[Minotbob]

My location has a number of interesting terrain problems. One of these is a normally well maintained earthen dam which has had recurring alders coming back each year below the mowing line, and refusing to give up no matter how many times pruned to ground level. The last couple of years pruning was not done resulting in 3"-4" trunk size trees.

Also my front yard has a few very steep and very tractor unfriendly areas where some small "trash" trees need to be removed before they become larger trees (or if simply cut, sprouting a whole bunch more suckers, etc).

Since I am not about to risk my tractor (not to mention my backside) in either of these steep areas, it was worthwhile to cobble up this frame which is designed to stand up near the base of the small tree, wrap and hook a choker chain around the base of the tree, hook the chain into the slotted top of the frame, and continue on to the tractor's drawbar (located safely on top of the dam).

I had previously tried just a straight pull without the frame, resulting in little more than laying the tree over and digging some nasty wheel wells in the top of the dam.

With the frame, the tractor didn't even slow down

Sherweld

I have used this type of setup to pull fence posts also. I just used an old fence post as the pivot point. You have to be very careful that everything is lined up and pulled in a straight line.

 

[Sherweld]

I am still a little confused. Should you use just the rim or the entire rim/tire assembly?

A wheel with tire mounted I believe could be unstable (tipping to the side)(although I can't say I've ever tried it) Also it could not keep the chain aligned as well as a bare wheel, and could allow the chain to slip off to the side. (but again I've never tried it)

A bare wheel shown here is being pushed down into the ground fairly hard. If it leans far enough to one side, where the down force of the chain is beyond the footprint of the wheel, it could flop on it's side. That is why I suggest using the widest wheel possible.

Also that is why I made the bipod frame with a wide stance and big feet.

Hope this helps.

Sherweld

 

[rhett]

hi, i think the "rim idea" is great, but it does not offer the "lever advantage" that Sherweld's bi pod does.

the rim feature is, it changes the pulling force to lift. the pull to lift ratio remains at 1:1 because there seems to be no fixed pivot point to determine a pull to lift ratio.

the bi pod not only changes pull to lift, but does utilize a fixed pivot point at its base. the bi pods height and the base distance from the lift point allows an adjustable and calculable pull to lift ratio. (as Sherweld originally stated, the chain is fixed at the bi pods top completing the lever.)

example: an 8 foot tall bi pod, base positioned 2 feet from lift point gives a 4:1 pull to lift advantage. so lets say 1 ton of pull translates to 4 tons of lifting force.

with my little YM1600 (which weighs in at about 1,500 pounds) i need every mechanical advantage i can find.

Sherweld, Thank You Again for bringing to light, a lever can be more than a straight board. my little YM1600's ego is going through the roof being able to work along side the big boys.

Rhett

 

[wedge40]

hi, i think the "rim idea" is great, but it does not offer the "lever advantage" that Sherweld's bi pod does.

the rim feature is, it changes the pulling force to lift. the pull to lift ratio remains at 1:1 because there seems to be no fixed pivot point to determine a pull to lift ratio.

the bi pod not only changes pull to lift, but does utilize a fixed pivot point at its base. the bi pods height and the base distance from the lift point allows an adjustable and calculable pull to lift ratio. (as Sherweld originally stated, the chain is fixed at the bi pods top completing the lever.)

example: an 8 foot tall bi pod, base positioned 2 feet from lift point gives a 4:1 pull to lift advantage. so lets say 1 ton of pull translates to 4 tons of lifting force.

with my little YM1600 (which weighs in at about 1,500 pounds) i need every mechanical advantage i can find.

Sherweld, Thank You Again for bringing to light, a lever can be more than a straight board. my little YM1600's ego is going through the roof being able to work along side the big boys.

Rhett

Ok would you start with the bi pod vertical or angled toward the tree? This really sounds too simple to work. I'm an engineer, but darn flunked mechanics.

 

[Minotbob]

It works best with the most leverage. If you angle the bipod about 45 deg toward the tree as you pull on the chain/cable the bipod goes toward the vertical position pulling up on the trunk of the tree. Really works slick. You can try it on a simple weed in the garden with a stick and twine and just pull on the twine and watch the weed pop out

 

[vsteel]

hi, i think the "rim idea" is great, but it does not offer the "lever advantage" that Sherweld's bi pod does.

the rim feature is, it changes the pulling force to lift. the pull to lift ratio remains at 1:1 because there seems to be no fixed pivot point to determine a pull to lift ratio.

the bi pod not only changes pull to lift, but does utilize a fixed pivot point at its base. the bi pods height and the base distance from the lift point allows an adjustable and calculable pull to lift ratio. (as Sherweld originally stated, the chain is fixed at the bi pods top completing the lever.)

example: an 8 foot tall bi pod, base positioned 2 feet from lift point gives a 4:1 pull to lift advantage. so lets say 1 ton of pull translates to 4 tons of lifting force.

Rhett

That is not technically correct. The length of the bipod doesn't matter. The reason is that the bipod/tire is a fulcrum and not a leaver. The advantage you get is you are directly lifting the tree and not trying to drag it through the ground to get it out.