Tree shear on tractor

[Sawyer Rob]

Basically anything you could use a shear on (using a tractor as the driving force) it seems the Tree Saw would be quicker. Not only that but you can cut at ground level (depending on rocks) and leave the FEL grapple on for material handling.

I don't think so, what about fence rows?? You going to saw the fences down too?

SR

 

[ovrszd]

Agree that the excavator is the best tool for the job when pulling trees out of the ground, I was impressed with a small 6k lb unit that I rented for a job on small trees about 4" in diameter. I've always been interested in something like the Turbo Saw or the Brown Tree Saw.

I've "internet shopped" quite a bit with these and was going to buy the Brown Tree Saw last year for a job but it ended up falling through, too bad because it would have paid for itself on that one job. It seems to me that for a tractor implement the Tree Saw is the most efficient way to take smaller trees down, say under 14" or so. Basically anything you could use a shear on (using a tractor as the driving force) it seems the Tree Saw would be quicker. Not only that but you can cut at ground level (depending on rocks) and leave the FEL grapple on for material handling.

Unfortunately most of the youtube vids on these units only show small bushy trees in a field and not backyard hardwoods like I'm dealing with in New England. Compared to a tree shear, I imagine it would work considerably better. (Assuming the operating platform is the 60hp tractor you mention)

My neighbor has a 16" tree shear that cuts at ground level, and with his ASV-100 it makes quick work of it, but he also has something like 40+ GPM and over 3500psi for hydraulics. I think a tree shear wouldn't be very effective for clearing trees on a tractor. Course, even with the Tree Saw, you still have the stumps to deal with like Richard mentioned, although at least they would be somewhat level to the ground and easy to mow over, but if planning on plowing the land then all bets are off, unless you grind each stumps afterwords (there is another implement) ....man it gets expensive to clear your own land with a tractor! :laughing:

Tree Saw | Brown Manufacturing | 800-633-8909
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/296992-brown-tree-saw-vs-dougherty.html

Farmer friend of mine started clearing cedars on pasture land using a SS with a puller. Then he bought a Shear. Then he bought a saw.

Problem he had with a puller was some were too big for him to pull. And he didn't like the holes left behind.

Problem he had with a Shear was exposed stumps that he had to avoid if running a brush cutter over the land.

Problem he had with a Saw was the violence of it all. He said you had to be very patient when engaging the tree or the blade would dig into the tree and try to spin the SS sideways. He thought it put a considerable amount of stress on the loader arms.

He's back to using the Shear now. His Saw is sitting out by the hiway with a 4 sale sign on it. I don't know what brand it is.

Again I think the best solution is definitely tied to the intent of the land after clearing. For what I do with the cleared land I want the stumps gone. So a puller is best on trees small enough to pull. Anything larger requires a Backhoe or Excavator.

 

[Piston]

Piston,
The Brown's Tree Saw looks good. I wonder how quickly I'd wear out my clutch easing up on all the trees in a severely overgrown pasture.

That's a good point, if you don't have creeper gears it may not work well at all. Might be worth a call to the manufacturer and see what they say (taken with a grain of salt of course, but I've spoke with the owners of Brown equipment numerous times and have always felt they were honest with their opinions.)

I don't think so, what about fence rows?? You going to saw the fences down too?

SR

I have never used one in person, and can't claim to have experience in this matter, but clearing fence rows is one of the main things they are advertised for, so I would imagine that they are good for that type of job. This is the impression I get, and again, I don't have any experience in real life with this and you make a good point. Certainly something to think about.

Farmer friend of mine started clearing cedars on pasture land using a SS with a puller. Then he bought a Shear. Then he bought a saw.

Problem he had with a puller was some were too big for him to pull. And he didn't like the holes left behind.

Problem he had with a Shear was exposed stumps that he had to avoid if running a brush cutter over the land.

Problem he had with a Saw was the violence of it all. He said you had to be very patient when engaging the tree or the blade would dig into the tree and try to spin the SS sideways. He thought it put a considerable amount of stress on the loader arms.

He's back to using the Shear now. His Saw is sitting out by the hiway with a 4 sale sign on it. I don't know what brand it is.

Again I think the best solution is definitely tied to the intent of the land after clearing. For what I do with the cleared land I want the stumps gone. So a puller is best on trees small enough to pull. Anything larger requires a Backhoe or Excavator.

Good point about the "violence" of it all, that 144lb spinning blade has some serious momentum at 788RPM. I would think the 3 point arms would take it better than the FEL, but still an absolute concern.

The tree saw may not be the best option for you, I was just throwing it out there as an idea to consider. I can just picture a Tree Saw on the 3 point, and a grapple on the FEL, that would be a serious land clearing machine right there! (for a tractor)

Edit: Meant to add (regarding the bold) if you happen to drive by it again and notice it is a turbo saw or Brown Tree Saw I may be interested in it.

 

[jimmysisson]

In my area in New England that blade would either be jammed between two trees or dinged bad on a rock. Looks great for open ground like the vid shows though. I often wish there was a tool for the small trees that don't need a chain saw (or sawzall!).

 

[Piston]

In my area in New England that blade would either be jammed between two trees or dinged bad on a rock. Looks great for open ground like the vid shows though. I often wish there was a tool for the small trees that don't need a chain saw (or sawzall!).

I often thought how useful a "miniature" harvester head would be on a mini ex or backhoe, for trees under say 10" or so. There has to be a good, efficient attachment to clear out saplings/trees that are too big for a heavy brush cutter but too small to be of any value for firewood or lumber. (Not withstanding a chainsaw and grapple which are pretty darn good options :laughing

 

[ovrszd]

I often thought how useful a "miniature" harvester head would be on a mini ex or backhoe, for trees under say 10" or so. There has to be a good, efficient attachment to clear out saplings/trees that are too big for a heavy brush cutter but too small to be of any value for firewood or lumber. (Not withstanding a chainsaw and grapple which are pretty darn good options :laughing

Thats when I use my puller. No jagged stump left. A bit slow if you have 100s of them.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Here's a tree saw that doesn't have high rpm, so might not be as prone to self-destructing when encountering rocky ground (speculation on my part, though).
Marshall Tree Saw - Home

Bob

 

[Xfaxman]

Here's a tree saw that doesn't have high rpm, so might not be as prone to self-destructing when encountering rocky ground (speculation on my part, though).
Marshall Tree Saw - Home

Bob

Yep, not a spinning saw blade, cuts more like a shear:

 

[Coyote machine]

Just came across this thread, hope I'm not too late,
I have a new Titan brand tree shear that will, according to the literature, cut up to a 12" tree. I have used it some this past fall cutting trees to clear some land that has been let go for some time. I've cut up to 9" trees so far, but will probably try some larger ones in the spring.

Here's my take on the tree shear: my first impression is that most of these tools are designed to be used on skid steers, to get optimal benefit. Yes, they will work on a tractor, but output from whatever is powering the hydraulics is key to smooth quick operation.
My 40 HP Kioti moves the shear's jaws fast enough but NOT rapidly, which is probably a good thing safety wise, IMHO. Could the shear jaw open or close faster- yes, with a skid steer and dedicated pump of higher GPM than my tractor puts out.
I will say that at 950 pounds the shear is one of, if not the heaviest implements I sling off my FEL, but I have a strong FEL and that helps overall. The shear creates 30,000 pounds of force, and cuts through most LIVE trees fairly easily.

Rear ballast is a key component, and I have loaded R4s, and had my brush hog on the back, (750 pounds), when using the shear, so that helped, though it did not make for easy maneuverability.
The directions say to open the jaw fully, (one 5" diameter piston, one moveable blade), that works against a stationary anvil. Then one approaches the tree and positions the tree as close to the trunk as possible at or slightly below ground level. Here is where any FEL damage could occur- though unlikely, as one learns to work with the dynamics of the shear, and the specific tractor/operator.
I can see how one might be concerned about possible FEL damage, BUT I found that if I let the tractor and shear find a position that accommodates both, that stresses that could be counterproductive really aren't. Hard to explain, but working with the shear is like most other tools- more use gets better results.
Overall the tree shear works well, is a very sturdy build, and cuts trees with the single blade very effectively, and as I understand it, more effectively than ones that employ two blades. I find if I let off my brakes the tractor, when positioned correctly, will adjust slightly to accommodate the tree being cut, as it is being cut, INSTEAD of trying to hold the tractor rigidly via the brake(s). This means, to me at least, that the FEL is more protected from wracking than it would be otherwise. I'm very attentive to this type of stress on the FEL since I tend to be hard on the tractor and often push it to the limit- within reason.
I will say Titan's tree shear manual is excellent, and covers all the bases and more in explaining function, use, and tips for good results.

I think for most 40-60+HP tractors the tree shear would work best by comparison to a tree saw, etc.

One thing to avoid is trying to shear a tree in windy conditions, where one is also trying to lift the tree after shearing it. This can be dangerous since a tall tree of any significant diameter can shift direction of fall, including toward the operator. Best practice is to shear the tree and then let it drop in the direction it would normally fall; which is toward the blade side of the shear, away from the anvil. This takes correct initial positioning of the tractor and shear, (setup), and taking into account the lean, wind, slope, etc. This is no different than what one would do with a tree if felling it with a saw, EXCEPT the operator is a captive and possible unwilling participant because of their being on the tractor while the tree is dropping, cab or not, the risks are real. I have a canopy, so that helps deflect any smaller trees that may get caught in the wind, IF they might drop toward me and get over the built-in brushgard/fence. Something to be aware of as a potential drawback to owning/operating a tree shear.
I also suggest NOT trying to use the shear to move a tree once it has been cut by gripping the cut tree in the jaws- this can and will put excessive strain on the FEL and could in the wrong set of circumstances render the tractor into a tip over condition, not something ones needs to add to their experience(s).

Hope this helps.

CM