TractorRob
Silver Member
Ouch! On my 96 5.2L dodge the converter was less than $300 at O'Reilly Auto Parts. I'm jut glad I don't live in California, the converter for the same truck for California use was over $500.
Troubleshooting Gutless Dodge 2500
- Thread starter Knight9
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Ouch! On my 96 5.2L dodge the converter was less than $300 at O'Reilly Auto Parts. I'm jut glad I don't live in California, the converter for the same truck for California use was over $500.
RobertN
Super Member
The one thing I found about the Cat, is in my case it was not that noticeable; it got slowly worse over time. When it actually gave up the ghost, it was noticeable of course.
But when I opened the exhaust up, it felt like someone added a blower and nitro to the truck!
That is the deceptive part. I didn't notice the gradual power loss till it just got really bad(ie pulling the last hill in to Weaverville in 1st gear).
In this case, it would be worth checking that. But, a full tune-up probably wouldn't hurt either...
But when I opened the exhaust up, it felt like someone added a blower and nitro to the truck!
That is the deceptive part. I didn't notice the gradual power loss till it just got really bad(ie pulling the last hill in to Weaverville in 1st gear).
In this case, it would be worth checking that. But, a full tune-up probably wouldn't hurt either...
360's -- had a 78 with it. I never thought it had much oomph versus the 318's I've driven, but it probably did. And I believe the 95+ years are magnum's? Better.
2 vehicles with bad cat's: 78 Volvo 244 and a 93 F350 (460). Both worked fine after running a pipe through the cat. Both passed smog tests as well as they did the year before (I looked at the results sheets). No one was the wiser, except my wallet (the Ford was over $500 from the auto parts stores). Never asked on the Volvo.
Removing a cat to check it out is pretty easy: soak the exhaust bolts a day or two in advance with your choice of magic oil (best I've used is Kroil). You likely only need to remove the front and can move the cat/pipe around enough to see inside.
But you already said you were taking it somewhere. They may still sell "test pipes', though knocking the ceramic liner out will be cheaper and not suspicious.
2 vehicles with bad cat's: 78 Volvo 244 and a 93 F350 (460). Both worked fine after running a pipe through the cat. Both passed smog tests as well as they did the year before (I looked at the results sheets). No one was the wiser, except my wallet (the Ford was over $500 from the auto parts stores). Never asked on the Volvo.
Removing a cat to check it out is pretty easy: soak the exhaust bolts a day or two in advance with your choice of magic oil (best I've used is Kroil). You likely only need to remove the front and can move the cat/pipe around enough to see inside.
But you already said you were taking it somewhere. They may still sell "test pipes', though knocking the ceramic liner out will be cheaper and not suspicious.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
chugging and lurching? HMM.. had that on my 98 dodge in 2000.. took it to the dealer, at first they thought tranny fluid issues.. that wasn't it.. next they reprogrammed the shift points / computer.. that actually made a small change in the problem.. but didn't help it.. left there.. throttle stuck wide open for a second .. had to power brake to slow down and pull off road real quick till safe to kill with the key... restarted fine.... called em back as I was just down the road... limed it back... 25$ throttle position sensor. never done it again...
soundguy
soundguy
Well after reading more of your comments and doing some more research (gotta love the internet :thumbsup
I think what I will try to do is pull the oxygen sensor just in front of the catalytic converter. That's basically opening a hole and if it powers up, I can replace the catalytic converter and call it quits.
I priced out a replacement catalytic converter at Canadian Tire and they can get on in a day or two for $350. That's not too bad I don't think.
If taking out the 02 sensor doesn't do it, then I have to go on with the investigation. And Soundguy, there are other sites out there that also suggest the TPS can be a potential culprit as well. BUT...the vast majority of everything I read, including some Dodge sites, suggests that loss of power in the 2nd generation Dodges like mine is frequently attributed to a clogged cat converter.
I will say, that I'm actually almost enjoying the investigation now though thanks to you guys and my other research. As I said at the onset, I'm not too mechanical, but I was under the truck today spraying so lubricant on the O2 sensor in prep for the test and was kind of enjoying it :ashamed:
Anyway, I'll be sure to post the results of my test once I get at it.
I think what I will try to do is pull the oxygen sensor just in front of the catalytic converter. That's basically opening a hole and if it powers up, I can replace the catalytic converter and call it quits. I priced out a replacement catalytic converter at Canadian Tire and they can get on in a day or two for $350. That's not too bad I don't think.
If taking out the 02 sensor doesn't do it, then I have to go on with the investigation. And Soundguy, there are other sites out there that also suggest the TPS can be a potential culprit as well. BUT...the vast majority of everything I read, including some Dodge sites, suggests that loss of power in the 2nd generation Dodges like mine is frequently attributed to a clogged cat converter.
I will say, that I'm actually almost enjoying the investigation now though thanks to you guys and my other research. As I said at the onset, I'm not too mechanical, but I was under the truck today spraying so lubricant on the O2 sensor in prep for the test and was kind of enjoying it :ashamed:
Anyway, I'll be sure to post the results of my test once I get at it.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
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- 52,424
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
let us know what yer test shows.
soundguy
soundguy
orezok
Super Member
You said that it wasn't throwing any codes. Did you notice if the check engine light came on when you turned on the key?
If you have availability, have someone run a code check. Mopars will store pending codes without turning on the MIL.
I think you can check the codes on that model by doing the ignition on - off - on - off - on within 5 seconds (do not start, just on-off). The mil light will flash the code if any.
If you have availability, have someone run a code check. Mopars will store pending codes without turning on the MIL.
I think you can check the codes on that model by doing the ignition on - off - on - off - on within 5 seconds (do not start, just on-off). The mil light will flash the code if any.
Ok, so I couldn't wait :laughing: I just had to try it.
I unplugged the O2 sensor, unscrewed it from the pipe just ahead of the catalytic converter and pulled it out. I think it looks ok. I've attached a pic of the O2 sensor.
Then I took the Ram out onto the roads and highway around my acreage. Wow! It is a very significant performance improvement! Came up to highway speeds quite easily and then cruised comfortably at 100-110 km/h with the accelerator half way down. Punching it actually resulted in the tranny gearing down and real power getting to the rubber! What a unique experience!! :laughing:
I had a board member point out to me in an IM that the O2 sensor hole should probably only be a partial improvement as some exhaust would still be trying to get through the cat converter. I think he is right and hope that means it may even be a little better.
Now of course I did get a check engine light come on since I had removed the O2 sensor, but that should go off once it is replaced.
So what now? Well, I guess I'll order the catalytic converter and a new O2 sensor. I'm a little hesitant to do that install myself, but then I'm getting more comfortable by the moment!
Thanks to all you guys for your advise on this! It's great to have a place to go where the folks in the know don't belittle the folks in the dark I appreciate it.
I'll be sure to take pics if I take on the install myself and provide an update. Sure hope this is the long term fix!!!
I unplugged the O2 sensor, unscrewed it from the pipe just ahead of the catalytic converter and pulled it out. I think it looks ok. I've attached a pic of the O2 sensor.
Then I took the Ram out onto the roads and highway around my acreage. Wow! It is a very significant performance improvement! Came up to highway speeds quite easily and then cruised comfortably at 100-110 km/h with the accelerator half way down. Punching it actually resulted in the tranny gearing down and real power getting to the rubber! What a unique experience!! :laughing:
I had a board member point out to me in an IM that the O2 sensor hole should probably only be a partial improvement as some exhaust would still be trying to get through the cat converter. I think he is right and hope that means it may even be a little better.
Now of course I did get a check engine light come on since I had removed the O2 sensor, but that should go off once it is replaced.
So what now? Well, I guess I'll order the catalytic converter and a new O2 sensor. I'm a little hesitant to do that install myself, but then I'm getting more comfortable by the moment!
Thanks to all you guys for your advise on this! It's great to have a place to go where the folks in the know don't belittle the folks in the dark
I appreciate it.I'll be sure to take pics if I take on the install myself and provide an update. Sure hope this is the long term fix!!!
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Egon
Epic Contributor
Uh-oh, is there a mechanic in the making!:thumbsup:
Not sure how the converter fits into the tailpipe section but suggest new clamps rather than trying to use the old ones. An angle grinder comes in handy for cutting the old ones off rather than mess around with trying to save them. If it's in a shop it takes a lot less time to junk the old and install new. There are also times the exhaust pipes just don't want to fit together. Expanders make that a lot easier.
And also be aware that the tailpipe might be pretty thin and then the muffler seems kinda dented and the hangers are getting to the point nothing can hang on them and???
Not sure how the converter fits into the tailpipe section but suggest new clamps rather than trying to use the old ones. An angle grinder comes in handy for cutting the old ones off rather than mess around with trying to save them. If it's in a shop it takes a lot less time to junk the old and install new. There are also times the exhaust pipes just don't want to fit together. Expanders make that a lot easier.
And also be aware that the tailpipe might be pretty thin and then the muffler seems kinda dented and the hangers are getting to the point nothing can hang on them and???
TractorRob
Silver Member
...
So what now? Well, I guess I'll order the catalytic converter and a new O2 sensor. I'm a little hesitant to do that install myself, but then I'm getting more comfortable by the moment!
I believe your install will be virtually the same as mine, so if so, here are some pointers: The install is not bad at all; however, getting the old one off can be a real pain. I had a hard time getting the muffler separated from the catalytic converter. I left the cat attached to the exhaust manifolds until after I got the muffler separated from it so that the cat would be anchored and I could pull the muffler off of it. It took a lot of banging and pulling and twisting(don't do this part with the truck jacked up) before it finally came off. Also, make sure you have the truck up high when you go to actually pull the cat out. It is kind of long and odd shaped with the tubes that run up to the exhaust manifolds, and I barely had room to get mine out(if you have something you can cut the tubes with, it would make this part much easier). The new one is easier to install because it comes in two parts. Make sure you get the clamp between the cat and the muffler tight, I had mine come apart there twice before I got it tight enough. If it does come apart, it won't hurt anything because there are enough hangers to keep it from dragging the ground, it will just all of a suddenly get very loud. As Egon said, I would not bother trying to reuse old clamps. I would also suggest buying new bolts and nuts for the cat to exhaust manifold connections.
