Troy Bilt Horse tiller

[Jkline]

Correct, the belt has nothing to do with reverse, but after moving the block so much, I need to check it for correct tension.

The machine does not lock into reverse: the engine lowers from weight and vibration, hitting the reverse wheel.

So I have two options right now with all the adjusting I experimented with: easy reverse when pushing up on the arm, but if left in neutral, it will go into reverse, or, extremely hard pushing the arm to get into into reverse-- so much I feel like I'm going to bend the arm.

This beast is frustrating.

 

[Jkline]

I've had an older troy bilt horse for 15 years-- never had a problem like this with it. Gave it to the old man as he wanted to start gardening again. Anyway, I'm not inexperienced with this machine.

@Jst-- I never even hinted that the belt has anything to do with reverse.

Has anyone removed the clip that holds the spring and plunger in place? In the manual, it says those will rotate when the retaining bolt is loose-- man is not.

Thanks again.

 

[sd455dan]

Since Troy built Horses are being discussed,

Any ideas on what the Horses are worth in working condition.

Inherited 1 that has been sitting for a few years, has the plow blade with it. Going to need carb and pull start work at a minimum

Still have a 3 point tiller for the tractor and doubt my back isn't up to running one of these. sure is built heavy

If I can get it running will see if anything stands out on the reverse vs. forward selection.

 

[Jstpssng]

Since Troy built Horses are being discussed,

Any ideas on what the Horses are worth in working condition.

Inherited 1 that has been sitting for a few years, has the plow blade with it. Going to need carb and pull start work at a minimum

Still have a 3 point tiller for the tractor and doubt my back isn't up to running one of these. sure is built heavy

If I can get it running will see if anything stands out on the reverse vs. forward selection.

Around here about $400 on up. You can go down to Harbor Freight and buy a new 6.5 HP Predator engine for $119 which beats messing around with the old one, expecially since it hasn't been run in years. That's what I've had on mine for the last few years and it works fine.
All that I use mine for now is the hiller, which is great for digging a trench for planting potatoes and seedlings.

 

[chevy]

The spring behind the engine pulley needs to be adjusted.
Here is a link to the manual. How to adjust the spring is on page 35.

Troy-Bilt Horse Tiller Operation Manual (Page 35 of 44)

 

[52wej]

I have had a Troy built horse since 1977. Still running today with its second engine. But I do need to do some serious seal replacement and replace the times again. It sounds as if your spring adjustment that holds the engine in neutral is not right. It should take deliberate effort to put the machine in reverse. W Jones

 

[Jkline]

If I had to guess, I think the spring doesn't spring anymore. My spring looks compressed, like there is no spring left in it. I would take out the retaining clip and check things out, but if it is under pressure, I don't know how I would get it compressed and then get the clip back on.

 

[Jkline]

@SD-- I picked this one up for $450. Sunbaked, but a newer Tecumseh 8HP on it.

 

[sd455dan]

@SD-- I picked this one up for $450. Sunbaked, but a newer Tecumseh 8HP on it.

Thanks, for the price info - Very helpful


Jstpssng

Will give fixing the Briggs a try first.

-if no Luck- the Predator is a great deal, knowing that there is another engine option available for a very reasonable price is good to know.

Thank you

 

[chevy]

If I had to guess, I think the spring doesn't spring anymore. My spring looks compressed, like there is no spring left in it. I would take out the retaining clip and check things out, but if it is under pressure, I don't know how I would get it compressed and then get the clip back on.

Maybe the spring plunger is stuck in the case or the plunger retaining bolt is tight against the spring plunger. The spring plunger is the bolt that runs through the spring. The spring plunger should move up and down freely. The plunger retaining bolt should only turn in far enough to keep the plunger from coming out of the case. The plunger retaining bolt is the bolt below the spring that has a lock nut on it. This is all covered in the manual that is linked above. Pages 35 to 37.