Truck Bed Protection

   / Truck Bed Protection #11  
I had an old GMC that worked as a plow truck.
Had it painted by a 'back yard' painter and his advise was to smear the entire bed with grease B4 putting the liner back in.
Worked so well that after plowing (working it to death) for 8 years I actually sold it for $1000. more that I had paid for it.
But then I did buy it right at an auction and kept in good mechanical condition.
Actually paid 4k all in all and sold for 5k.
 
   / Truck Bed Protection #12  
Bought new, my '99 SuperDuty has a 1/2" rubber custom mat (6.5 ft bed). It's sort of a garage queen, but has done a lot of work too. About once every other year I pull the mat, wash and rewax the bed. It still looks new after 15 years. The rubber is easy on the knees and has some traction to minimize sliding. Two side boxes have to be undone for access. My tailgate has an aluminum over the top edge that takes some punishment without much showing.
Cheers,
Mike
 
   / Truck Bed Protection #13  
I don't have a bed liner in my new truck, and after 10 months of typical use it is holding up fine with a nice patina of light scratches but no scuffs or scrapes. That includes bringing home all the lumber and materials to build a 16'x24' boat house, and regular weekly or bi-weekly trips to the lumberyard in my never-ending project schedule. When I hauled cement blocks and a rental plate compactor, I put down scraps of OSB first, but otherwise everything gets loaded right on top of the paint and I don't baby it. Heavier loads and bulk materials (gravel, mulch, etc) go on my 7x16 trailer since it's better for that.

My past experience with work trucks showed that drop in bed liners are too slippery, spray-on is too grippy, and rubber mats bunch up when loading/unloading. Trucks with bare beds don't have any of those downsides. If your usage isn't severe and you're not afraid of light scratches, go for it. I'll say this, I think anything that involves drilling holes and putting screws in is worse than doing nothing at all.
 
   / Truck Bed Protection
  • Thread Starter
#14  
deere 5105, the situation that you've described is stainless screws electrically connected to mild steel. This arrangement will protect the screws from rusting at the expense of the mild steel tailgate. In a very dry environment I would expect very little rusting. But if the rubber mat were to "hold" moisture in and around this stainless steel/mild steel juncture you will have rusting there, and localized to the exposed area because the remainder of the tailgate is coated. Only the self-tapping thread/hole is exposed, so that location will do all of the cathodic protection of the stainless screws. SS screws don't really need protection but the bare steel will protect the screws anyway by sacrificing itself. Heres another way to think about it. If you used zinc plated screws there, ---->and they rusted after some time<--- they have sacrificed all of their zinc coating to protect the screws and tailgate from rusting. After some time, the zinc has depleted then you start to see steel rusting. It could be screw only, or screws and tailgate. If you use stainless steel screws there, the screw itself will never rust, but there's still the same amount of electrolysis occurring, and it's your tailgate being sacrificed while the screws are fine. Steel and stainless is not a good combination to use in an outdoor environment. You may notice the Auto mfr doesn't use stainless fasteners. I don't know what coating they use on their exposed fasteners, it might be zinc plus a sealer. All of this is a moot point if there is no water. And it all gets worse if there's an electrolyte in the water (salt?)
Sounds kind of like the truck becomes a cathodic protection system for the fasteners. Had not considered that issue. My guess is your background is showing through on that explanation!
 
   / Truck Bed Protection
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I don't have a bed liner in my new truck, and after 10 months of typical use it is holding up fine with a nice patina of light scratches but no scuffs or scrapes. That includes bringing home all the lumber and materials to build a 16'x24' boat house, and regular weekly or bi-weekly trips to the lumberyard in my never-ending project schedule. When I hauled cement blocks and a rental plate compactor, I put down scraps of OSB first, but otherwise everything gets loaded right on top of the paint and I don't baby it. Heavier loads and bulk materials (gravel, mulch, etc) go on my 7x16 trailer since it's better for that. My past experience with work trucks showed that drop in bed liners are too slippery, spray-on is too grippy, and rubber mats bunch up when loading/unloading. Trucks with bare beds don't have any of those downsides. If your usage isn't severe and you're not afraid of light scratches, go for it. I'll say this, I think anything that involves drilling holes and putting screws in is worse than doing nothing at all.
I agree with your descriptions of each system and I too would use a trailer before hauling too much in the truck bed. Think I still have an old mat or two in the barn, but may opt to get a new one that is made to fit the 5.5' bed. Just don't see me getting $400 worth of benefit from the spray in. I do agree for total protection they are about the best thing going. May just skip the tailgate.
 
   / Truck Bed Protection #16  
Rubber mats work pretty good but they trap dirt, grime, and moisture under them. I don't like a rubber mat on the tailgate because you have to screw it to the tailgate. A rubber mat on the tailgate would be easy to catch something on. A rubber mat can be stolen and they can blow out if the tail gate it down. I think a spray in (Linex) is the way to go.
 
   / Truck Bed Protection #17  
I just lay a sheet of plywood on the bed floor, and dump some diesel in there once in a while. on the tailgate I have a piece of plywood screwed on with about eight screws. That makes the bed and tailgate the same level. When I wanna clean the truck out,I just pull the plywood out, hose it out and put the wood back in there. Stuff doesn't slide around, doesn't make a lot of racket, and I never could see the value of a bed liner. I just run the truck because it is a truck
 
   / Truck Bed Protection #18  
And attach the plastic protectors with self-tapping screws? Had thought if going that route to try to find stainless fasteners and washers to prevent rusting.

The ones I get utilize the factory screws already in the tailgate.

Chris
 
   / Truck Bed Protection #19  
The ones I get utilize the factory screws already in the tailgate.

Chris

I have seen that too, and it's the only way to go in my opinion.
 
   / Truck Bed Protection #20  
I suppose it depends on how you use your bed. I have had both drop in liners and the Linex brand professionally sprayed on. Personally I like the Linex liner and will never go back to a drop in or mat. It is easy to clean, isn't slippery or have big grooves that collect crap like drop in bed liners, doesn't trap moisture, debris, etc. and doesn't reduce volume. My :2cents:
 

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