Trying to replace Ford E1NN6714BB OIL FILTER - on my 1983 Ford 1700

[jpilk99]

Great stuff, JC. Love the vacuum adaptation - I'll do just that. Forgive me, brother, but what the heck is a "diffy"? Differntial?

Still ordering parts. Don't want to open up the plumbing to the filter ("screen" as you call it) until I have the new gaskets to seal it all back up. Will update as I go.

Thanks so much!!!

PS. My tranny looks just like your picture: Left shifter for "speed" range, 1-4 and right shifter for 1st, 2nd, 3rd and Reverse. I can shift on the fly, but, typically gear grinding occurs when I do - so I slow to stop or thereabouts and then shift.

 

[JC-jetro]

Great stuff, JC. Love the vacuum adaptation - I'll do just that. Forgive me, brother, but what the heck is a "diffy"? Differntial?

You are welcome. yes sir, it is differential housing. Notice the hole I put on the handle of the jug. The reaso is the suction of shop vac would not suck the container as it is not very stout plastic. you can blocl it with your finger to regualate the suction.

Still ordering parts. Don't want to open up the plumbing to the filter ("screen" as you call it) until I have the new gaskets to seal it all back up. Will update as I go.

That's basically is called " suction screen". it is fine mesh perforated SS screen. better than filter perhaps but more difficult to have access to. mine is the original 40 yr old. be gentle while taking the stuff off and save gasket and o0ring for future should you need.

Thanks so much!!!

PS. My tranny looks just like your picture: Left shifter for "speed" range, 1-4 and right shifter for 1st, 2nd, 3rd and Reverse. I can shift on the fly, but, typically gear grinding occurs when I do - so I slow to stop or thereabouts and then shift.

Yup, you do have geared transmission and not a hydro. I later on checked online for 83- Ford 1700. Ford 1700 never came in Hydrostatic tranny. NO!! you should not shift on the fly. Like the inside transmission i showed you, it does not have synchronizer. On low rpm if I timed right can shift on the fly but it is not just worth it. you do not want to damage the gear as you will not be able to source replacement and if you even find it will be extremely expensive and still used one... Just Don't do it.

Yes , lower the rpm , come to a full stop, fully cutch and then engage range and the gear desired based on your application.

TractorData.com Ford 1700 tractor information

www.tractordata.com

 

[jpilk99]

Great stuff, JC. Love the vacuum adaptation - I'll do just that. Forgive me, brother, but what the heck is a "diffy"? Differntial?

You are welcome. yes sir, it is differential housing. Notice the hole I put on the handle of the jug. The reaso is the suction of shop vac would not suck the container as it is not very stout plastic. you can blocl it with your finger to regualate the suction.
View attachment 713690

Still ordering parts. Don't want to open up the plumbing to the filter ("screen" as you call it) until I have the new gaskets to seal it all back up. Will update as I go.

That's basically is called " suction screen". it is fine mesh perforated SS screen. better than filter perhaps but more difficult to have access to. mine is the original 40 yr old. be gentle while taking the stuff off and save gasket and o0ring for future should you need.

Thanks so much!!!

PS. My tranny looks just like your picture: Left shifter for "speed" range, 1-4 and right shifter for 1st, 2nd, 3rd and Reverse. I can shift on the fly, but, typically gear grinding occurs when I do - so I slow to stop or thereabouts and then shift.

Yup, you do have geared transmission and not a hydro. I later on checked online for 83- Ford 1700. Ford 1700 never came in Hydrostatic tranny. NO!! you should not shift on the fly. Like the inside transmission i showed you, it does not have synchronizer. On low rpm if I timed right can shift on the fly but it is not just worth it. you do not want to damage the gear as you will not be able to source replacement and if you even find it will be extremely expensive and still used one... Just Don't do it.

Yes , lower the rpm , come to a full stop, fully cutch and then engage range and the gear desired based on your application.

TractorData.com Ford 1700 tractor information

www.tractordata.com

I got a lot done today: Drained hydraulic fluid from the drain plug under transmission, rear axle/differential, and where the big pipe comes into the hydraulic filter. Filter wasn’t too dirty nor was it that bad in the belly of the hydraulic reservoir where the filter sits. (Seemed like more than 23 quarts came out - guess I’ll just refill and check level until it’s right).

Big question: What torque do I tighten the 2 big banjo bolts at both ends of that long plumbing tube, as well as the 4 small bolts that hold the filter in place???

(Note: I did replace the big round gasket at the filter as well as the 4 O-rings at both ends of the pipe).
Thank you,

Jay

 

[JC-jetro]

Jay,

I say guten tight would be good as far as torque. I did look at the manual I had and it did not list torque rating for the banjo.The banjos are pretty stout and can take good amount of torque. I think it will be difficult to find a torque requirement as I do not have Factory manual. What keeps it leak tight is the oring and you never want to make it so tight that oring gets damaged and distorted. On the 4 bolts for the suction screen , I would not go above 45 ft-lb. as longs it does not leak. on the oil level just the transmission dipstick. Remember don't screw the cap in to check the level.

 

[jpilk99]

Jay,

I say guten tight would be good as far as torque. I did look at the manual I had and it did not list torque rating for the banjo.The banjos are pretty stout and can take good amount of torque. I think it will be difficult to find a torque requirement as I do not have Factory manual. What keeps it leak tight is the oring and you never want to make it so tight that oring gets damaged and distorted. On the 4 bolts for the suction screen , I would not go above 45 ft-lb. as longs it does not leak. on the oil level just the transmission dipstick. Remember don't screw the cap in to check the level.

Good morning, JC; all.

The overall maintenance work is going pretty well. New fuel filter and cup, bled fuel lines. Drained/cleaned air filter (oil dish). Changed engine oil and filter. Replaced all hyrdraulic lines, new control valve, and fluid, which included rear axle/differential. Had to laugh, I connected all 4 hydro lines to the boom/bucket the way they were oriented to the old one - and of course, now everything is backwards. Before, I'd pull back on the left control valve arm to lift boom, now I have to push forward... (I ain't undo'ing lines to turn it around ). Interesting that the front axle differential calls for a different oil than the rear; M2C-105 vs the M2C-134. Also reading that this front axle oil should be replenished with "high quality, extreme pressure gear lubricant with anti-foam additive". Any thoughts on this? I used the Tractor Supply universal hydraulic fluid we discussed...

Other than that, I will drain/flush coolant and replace with new. Great all grease fittings ...and then I should be done???

Thank you,

Jay

 

[JC-jetro]

Nice progress Jay, don't let anyone borrow your tractor so they would not be confused on manipulating the joystick or two sticks in your case. Owners manual calls for NH-134 on all including front axle. My kubota aslo uses the very same hyd oil for the front differential and final drive. Although my dealer said they do sometimes put a heavier oil there. I think you will be fine with the TSC universal hyd oil. Yup, before too long you don't know what to do as you're all caught up.

 

[jpilk99]

Thanks JC!!!! Ready to load up the backhoe and do a little trench digging before the snow flies

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks JC!!!! Ready to load up the backhoe and do a little trench digging before the snow flies

Awsome, way to go and be safe!