TomSeller
Super Member
I think the Oregon video earlier in the thread lists 25 and 30
TSC Chainsaw Sharpener
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I think the Oregon video earlier in the thread lists 25 and 30
avillahdw
Silver Member
At my hardware store, we use the 25and 30 Oregon recommendation (we are an Oregon dealer also) but if a customer prefers a different angle, we will sharpen to their preferences. Just like so many other things, everyone has an idea of what they think is best. I personally default to the recommendation of a company that sells hundreds of millions of $ of chain every year.
DarkBlack
Elite Member
When I said the cradle angle, I'm talking about what the Oregon refers to as the vice tilt angle. It's either set at neutral ( 90 degrees ), or at 10 degrees. almost all chains ( all mine ) use 10 degrees. It's set by loosing the big knob at the bottom of the grinder. It loosens the 1/8 round cradle piece that is centered with spring loaded ball detents.
The trick ( and a bit of work ) is to religiously change and understand this flops directions for r/l cutters. If you confuse L/R cutters ( you will ) just always leave the tilt with the last cutter angle, that way you wont confuse it.
To get you started: If the main chain jig is close to you on the left side and further from you on the right side, then the cradle should be tilted upward in the front ( toward you 10 degrees).
This is why I do chains a bunch at a time. I do all RH cutter of all chains, then switch to LH settings and run the chains back through.
eddie48
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Actually, I don't wash the chains at all. I do try to make one last cut in clean wood, bearing down on the chain a little bit to clean the debris off of the chain before I change it. That removes most of the gunk. If there is still a lot of dirt/sawdust on the teeth, I have a small wire brush toothbrush that I clean the tooth before sharpening. I don't think cleaning the chain with solvent or soap and water will help with the life of the chain. Better to leave the oily residue on the chain.
ovrszd
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This is a good point that I'd like to see discussed. I don't wash my chains either. If I did I'd want to soak them in oil before using again to relubricate the chain before load was applied.
Secondly, I've never had a chain break or wearout the pins before the teeth were worn out from use and sharpening. I'm talking small chains, 16 or 18". All that might change if running a large logger saw??
Gale Hawkins
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Thanks. I had never heard of washing saw chains before sharping until this thread. I guess it is just one of those YouTube myths.
Not a myth here. I told you earlier that I use a grease remover solvent or usually oven cleaner to clean the chains before sharpening then rinse the chains in water ( not soap and water) and let them dry or use an air hose if I'm in a hurry. And this started way before You-tube or the internet was ever heard of.
Did you ever file a piece of metal through grease? What happens to the abrasive action of the file?
You can soak and clean a file somewhat but you can't clean the little grinding wheels. The only recourse is grinding them down with the shaper stone.
The wheels are not very large in diameter in the first place and the usable diameter distance from wear is very small since the motor head
gets in the way with not much wheel loss. It's like a radial arm saw. You might have a 10" blade but the depth of cut is only from the bottom of the motor to the blade tip.
I also did say that I soak and store my chains in oil afterwards to keep the rivets free and prevent any rust.
Some mechanics are sloppy, use screwdrivers to pound out pins, torque important fasteners by feel, and spend a lot of money replacing tools as a result. You didn't give the impression that you were that way.
With the saw grinder on a greasy/oily gunked up with wood chain you will not only cause burning on the teeth but soon have a black grease impregnated pink stone that is not cheap to replace.
When you spend time and money taking your chains to have them sharpened they don't have time to do it right, just get it done fast and eat a lot of tooth while doing it. They buy grinding wheels by the box, but guess who is paying for them?
Most folks that maintain their own saws, whether by file, machine, or a combination do so to get a chain that cuts extremely well and can be sharpened many times over.
Just like your students, you can tell them the best way without going into great detail as to why, but they will try shortcuts until someday
they will admit to themselves that old Gale wasn't so dumb after all.
Treemonkey1000
Veteran Member
Cleaning the chain is not going to wear them out any faster as long as you don't let them rust up afterwards. That's why I use kerosene or diesel which will lubricate them as well as getting out some of the junk on the chain. The parts washer I use has a basket in it that you can slosh the chains up and down in. Take them out and let them drip dry a little then sharpen them. Or if they are really gummed up use he wire brush to knock down the pitch and stuff on the chain. Cottonwoods and pulpy trees like that can wick up fine dirt into the stump ends which will speed up dulling the chain.