TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

[brickman34]

LOGG- Thanks for posting this!

My John Deere 155C has a 25HP Briggs and Stratton and a 48" cut. After 4.5 years and 122 hours, it started having touble going up steep hills after it warmed up (about 20 minutes). Not long after that, it would not climb anything bigger than a mild slope. I mow about an acre per week, with some decent hills. I plow a big driveway in the winter.

I read in multiple places on the web that the transmission would need replacing. Some web sites said I needed to buy a new $6000 Kubota. But after I found this thread, I ordered my $309 rebuild kit from Tuff Torq. I have the K46BE model.

I probably spent 7 hours, or so, total working on it. I was worried at first when it was all back together and the mover would not move. But after I fooled with the free release lever a few times, it took off. It seems to have the power and hill climbing ability it had when I bought it. With the new 5w50 synthetic oil, I hope to get another 5-7 years out of it.

Thanks again for a life saver of a post. You saved me about $5700!

 

[tracyp]

This is my first post here. I am a webmaster on another forum (woodworking). I wanted to thank the original poster for a top notch how to. By following this thread I was able to repair my k46v in a simplicity regent mower. I ordered my repair kit from Derek and actually went into my trans axle twice. Yeah, I had the backward pedal operation the first time. Now the second time took me about half as long. Thank you very much lotsofgreengrass for a very informative thread.:thumbsup::thumbsup: I found it also helps in the initial test after the rebuild to gently roll both tires in the same direction to get the unit moving again.

 

[LotsofGreenGrass]

LOGG- Thanks for posting this!

My John Deere 155C has a 25HP Briggs and Stratton and a 48" cut. After 4.5 years and 122 hours, it started having touble going up steep hills after it warmed up (about 20 minutes). Not long after that, it would not climb anything bigger than a mild slope. I mow about an acre per week, with some decent hills. I plow a big driveway in the winter.

I read in multiple places on the web that the transmission would need replacing. Some web sites said I needed to buy a new $6000 Kubota. But after I found this thread, I ordered my $309 rebuild kit from Tuff Torq. I have the K46BE model.

I probably spent 7 hours, or so, total working on it. I was worried at first when it was all back together and the mover would not move. But after I fooled with the free release lever a few times, it took off. It seems to have the power and hill climbing ability it had when I bought it. With the new 5w50 synthetic oil, I hope to get another 5-7 years out of it.

Thanks again for a life saver of a post. You saved me about $5700!

Great news! Take a picture of the Green Grin and post!

 

[LotsofGreenGrass]

This is my first post here. I am a webmaster on another forum (woodworking). I wanted to thank the original poster for a top notch how to. By following this thread I was able to repair my k46v in a simplicity regent mower. I ordered my repair kit from Derek and actually went into my trans axle twice. Yeah, I had the backward pedal operation the first time. Now the second time took me about half as long. Thank you very much lotsofgreengrass for a very informative thread.:thumbsup::thumbsup: I found it also helps in the initial test after the rebuild to gently roll both tires in the same direction to get the unit moving again.

Awesome! Glad to help : )

 

[LotsofGreenGrass]

When you install the new cylinders and pistons, prime all of them with synthetic oil.

Take your time on reassembly. It can get a little frustrating, since spring loaded things want to pop out. Careful with the two small valves that contact the pads at #9. Depress these when sliding the plate in. Use a rubber mallet to GENTLY seat the 3 dowels.

The toughest part is re-seating parts #12, 4, 8, 7 and 1, since they function as a unit. It takes some jiggling and moving of parts. Part #8 likes to pop out of place when reinstalling the plate with the 3 gold top bolts. No biggie, just re-seat it.

Reseal the case with RTV. I use Permatex Copper, since it never has leaked on me. Make sure you pay close attention to all of the areas that need sealing. There are a few internal areas that serpentine around the internal components. Let RTV dry over night. Refill case with 5 W50 Synthetic Oil using a small diameter funnel. This can be messy, go slow, since there is no vent and it tends to reflux out of the fill spout. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of the top of the K46 with the fill plug. Should be pretty obvious though. Remove the dust cap, then remove the plug with Channel Locks.

Reinstall transmission. Don't forget the gold rod that controls the engage / disengage. This rod has to be put in DURING the reinstall. If you forget it, you can't get it in once the K46 is in. Once you get the transmission in, remove the belt guard shown in picture #3 and re-seat the belt. Otherwise, you will smell burning rubber! How do I know? LOL. It is easiest way to re-seat the belt is by griping both sides of the belt with one hand and sliding the guard back on over the pulley.

This is good time to vacuum out the underside of your tractor. If your tractor is like mine was, there is a lot of dead grass in the frame. Put some oil on the steering shaft inside the engine hood and let it creep down to the bearing. This will make steering easier.

Update: Permatex Black may be a better choice, since it has the best oil resistance. Copper is best in high heat.

 

[LotsofGreenGrass]

When you install the new cylinders and pistons, prime all of them with synthetic oil.

Take your time on reassembly. It can get a little frustrating, since spring loaded things want to pop out. Careful with the two small valves that contact the pads at #9. Depress these when sliding the plate in. Use a rubber mallet to GENTLY seat the 3 dowels.

The toughest part is re-seating parts #12, 4, 8, 7 and 1, since they function as a unit. It takes some jiggling and moving of parts. Part #8 likes to pop out of place when reinstalling the plate with the 3 gold top bolts. No biggie, just re-seat it.

Reseal the case with RTV. I use Permatex Copper, since it never has leaked on me. Make sure you pay close attention to all of the areas that need sealing. There are a few internal areas that serpentine around the internal components. Let RTV dry over night. Refill case with 5 W50 Synthetic Oil using a small diameter funnel. This can be messy, go slow, since there is no vent and it tends to reflux out of the fill spout. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of the top of the K46 with the fill plug. Should be pretty obvious though. Remove the dust cap, then remove the plug with Channel Locks.

Reinstall transmission. Don't forget the gold rod that controls the engage / disengage. This rod has to be put in DURING the reinstall. If you forget it, you can't get it in once the K46 is in. Once you get the transmission in, remove the belt guard shown in picture #3 and re-seat the belt. Otherwise, you will smell burning rubber! How do I know? LOL. It is easiest way to re-seat the belt is by griping both sides of the belt with one hand and sliding the guard back on over the pulley.

This is good time to vacuum out the underside of your tractor. If your tractor is like mine was, there is a lot of dead grass in the frame. Put some oil on the steering shaft inside the engine hood and let it creep down to the bearing. This will make steering easier.

Gripping, not griping lol

 

[Yellow76]

Like the rest of the group, thank you. I have read this a few times but have a John Deere X300 with a K46 and its dead. I have looked at the K66 option but at $1825ish I am not wanting to spend that kind of money. So my question is, can this upgrade be done on my X300 as well? I would assume so but I have not seen anyone on here do it. I have right at 200 hours, and its about 5 years old. I have searched on the net and several people have the same issue I do, the tranny is done. JD said its not common but would replace it....not rebuild it. Any thoughts?

Thanks
Shawn

 

[youngunn]

i have a JD with the K46AC transaxle, and 160 hrs on it. when put into gear, forward or reverse, it wont move at all, and makes a metal/grinding/clicking noise. the axle disengage seems to be working ok. being a mechanic, i decided to pull the transaxle out and disassemble it. all the gears looks fine, no metal shavings or pieces on the magnets, fluid is nice, golden color, all looks fine. i didn't pull the pump shaft to see if it was stripped, but from your experience guys, what should i look at?

i am wanting to just sell the mower, so i don't really care to put a new pump etc in if it isnt needed. i just need the mower to move again.

thanks

 

[wsp617]

My question is why can't Tuff Torq build a tranny that lasts? My JD LA140 has a junk tranny and it has less than a 100 hours on it. I'm planning on using this thread to repair mine this Spring but I'm not happy about it.

 

[eshann66]

Thanks to LotsofGreenGrass for this Repair Procedure. I have a L130 John Deere 2004, and my K46 Transaxle has S__T the Bed! This article will help me rebuild my unit to get it going again. Thanks for posting the phone # to tuff torq as well, very helpfull. :thumbsup: