Tuffy rebuild

[dstig1]

We got my MIL's old Troy Bilt Tuffy after she passed a few years back and I am getting around to dealing with it now. Carb needs help, no surprise, so will probably just replace. But here is the main question. All gear oil leaked out due to a couple bad seals on the wheel and tine axles. I have pulled those 4 seals (wasn't easy) and find that the shafts are scored in spots (one each). Replacement shaft seems possible on wheels but for $100 and the tine shaft I am unsure as there is some sort of "kit" for a whopping $300 but no idea what is in it as they give no details on the supplier sites I have looked on. By the time I replace both of those shafts, seals and a carb I might as well buy new with how much it will cost.

If I just clean these up with emery cloth does it have any chance of sealing again? I'm guessing poeple will want pics to really know so I will go grab some here shortly and post those up. At least one spot had a pretty decent gouge in it. Any methods to fill that will work and not destroy the shafts? I could try TIG build-up but always worry about warp with welding on a shaft.

 

[dstig1]

 

[Sonny580]

speedy sleeves could work for you ---- I would just throw some weld on it and turn it down on the lathe. ---worked on case reverse idler shaft that was cut deep, so it can be done ---- just use enough heat to make decent weld. Some guys say high heat and move fast, I never tried that.
Still have my old tuffy here, only use him to cultivate between cabbage and tomato plants. Horse goes between the rows.

 

[5030]

Switch from gear oil to grease in the gearcase. What I did, I had a leaker too. Filled the gearcase with chassis grease. Issue solved.

 

[arto98607]

We got my MIL's old Troy Bilt Tuffy after she passed a few years back and I am getting around to dealing with it now. Carb needs help, no surprise, so will probably just replace. But here is the main question. All gear oil leaked out due to a couple bad seals on the wheel and tine axles. I have pulled those 4 seals (wasn't easy) and find that the shafts are scored in spots (one each). Replacement shaft seems possible on wheels but for $100 and the tine shaft I am unsure as there is some sort of "kit" for a whopping $300 but no idea what is in it as they give no details on the supplier sites I have looked on. By the time I replace both of those shafts, seals and a carb I might as well buy new with how much it will cost.

If I just clean these up with emery cloth does it have any chance of sealing again? I'm guessing poeple will want pics to really know so I will go grab some here shortly and post those up. At least one spot had a pretty decent gouge in it. Any methods to fill that will work and not destroy the shafts? I could try TIG build-up but always worry about warp with welding on a shaft.

Sorry to say it but based on my experience I would not spend much money on lightweight tiller.

Perhaps the shaft can still be cleaned up with a fine wet sanding paper, after removing the heavy rust - I think it's worth trying it.



Here is my personal experience:

I bought this 5.5 hp Pony ProLine new back in year 2002 and used it for around 18 years it but was often struggling because it had only one ground speed (which was too fast most of the time), and not enough mass to keep it from launching fast forward when the tines would grab something hard like deep down packed clay for example.

It was often a struggle so I ended up using my tractor with a 48 inch 3 pt tiller.

I sold the Pony at a pretty good price and was glad to get rid of it.



Two years ago I finally bought this used 6 hp Horse model for $200 and cleaned up carburetor, installed a new fuel shutoff valve, fuel filter, belts and also replaced all four leaky shaft oil seals.

What a difference!

No more launching forward, if fact it has never done it so far and it has two speed transmission which is great.
I just wish I had bought the Horse model in the first place.

The Pony may work fine for some people ("the city folks" like my old boss used to say!), but no one will never again see me using one of those!

Not sure of differences between Tuffy and Pony, but they look similar - maybe someone here can educate us?

 

[5030]

Entry level tillers for entry level gardeners.

 

[5030]

My Cub Cadet RT beats my TB horse hands down, every time I might add.

 

[stevewarner1957]

I have a 29 year old Horse I just RE powered with a GX270 8.5hp Honda. The old Kohler had the coil go bad and the kickback ruined the recoil starter before I was able to figure it out, the recoil is not serviced by Kohler anymore for the M8T. Well I had a tine shaft leak and the shaft was rough so I used a speedi-sleeve. She’s good as new, maybe better, now

 

[fried1765]

I have a 29 year old Horse I just RE powered with a GX270 8.5hp Honda. The old Kohler had the coil go bad and the kickback ruined the recoil starter before I was able to figure it out, the recoil is not serviced by Kohler anymore for the M8T. Well I had a tine shaft leak and the shaft was rough so I used a speedi-sleeve. She’s good as new, maybe better, now
View attachment 699560

It sure looks like new!

 

[stevewarner1957]

I noticed when I had it apart the depth drag bar was worn down almost through to the rear bolt hole. I had some hard surface electrodes so with my old Lincoln Idealarc250 I built it all back up and hard faced it. Good for another 29 years now