Turn key and nothing. No start, no gauges, no lights.

[MatHaas]

yea, so currently figure 12 the ammeter is our suspect.

the one side should send hot power to the ignition switch. the other side sends power to the silver rectifying alternator figure 5, aka a voltage regulator.

either way, there's a direct link from the ammeter to the ignition switch.

so the problem lies between the output of that top 30amp fuse in the fuse box and the ignition switch. It's either the wire from the fuse box to the ammeter, the ammeter itself, and the wire from the ammeter to ignition.

 

[MatHaas]

the ammeter should be the voltage gauge. So get your test light or multimeter and get to the back of the voltage gauge.
see if power is getting there, and if power is getting out.

if power isn't getting there, then it's the wire from the fuse block to the volt meter.

 

[LouNY]

12 is the ammeter, 13 is the key switch.

I saw the legend after I posted so I deleted my initial post,
As MatHaas has posted verify power on both sides of the main fuse, then check for power on the ammeter both sides.
Luck

 

[MatHaas]

if you look at the schematic, the other side of the ammeter go to the voltage regulator, then to another "regulator" then back in to the fuse block.

you said no other fuse in the fuse block has power. so we'll assuming power isn't getting out of the ammeter on that side either.

That means it's either the wire from fuse block 30amp top fuse to ammeter, or the ammeter itself.

so check that voltage gauge for power in.

 

[Krash]

Going out to check right now. Thanks! I will report back.

 

[PILOON]

Had a closer look at your diagram and notice item 28 that is between the switch and the starter terminal.
Power must go thru that 28 (called switch) wherever it be in the circuit.


It only has 2 terminals, might it be a circuit breaker (self resetting) if so I'd suggest to temporary jumper it for a quick try.
Then again might be a seat or other safety switch as that is not clear.
Either way do a quick bypass.

 

[MatHaas]

Had a closer look at your diagram and notice item 28 that is between the switch and the starter terminal.

It only has 2 terminals, might it be a circuit breaker (self resetting) if so I'd suggest to temporary jumper it for a quick try.

Thanks for not reading anything and only cluttering this thread. You also don't know how to read a diagram..

 

[Krash]

Thanks PILOON, I thought 28 was the problem originally too, but MatHaas corrected my thinking on that. The ignition gets it power from fuse 7 and the ammeter. I am headed over to check that now.

 

[Krash]

Problem found, but not fixed yet. Wire (5) broken off at (12).

A little hard area to work in, so I will remove the ammeter so I can re-attach the wire. Not sure of the lug type. I will get this fixed, and just to tie up loose ends, I will report back that I have the tractor working again.

Thanks to everyone, and especially MatHaas for the great trouble shooting!

 

[MatHaas]

Problem found, but not fixed yet. Wire (5) broken off at (12).

A little hard area to work in, so I will remove the ammeter so I can re-attach the wire. Not sure of the lug type. I will get this fixed, and just to tie up loose ends, I will report back that I have the tractor working again.

Thanks to everyone, and especially MatHaas for the great trouble shooting!

Glad to hear. It is just a voltage gauge, so if you really need the tractor to run, you can jump it directly around the meter.

Tight area but some wire strippers and a new end should have you on your way.

Good luck sir

 

[Krash]

OK, I am off and running. The lug on the ammeter was easy to re-connect the wire to. However, I still got no power to the starter switch. Ammeter must be bad also. So I jumpered the ammeter out of the circuit, and she started right up.

Thanks again for all the great advice.

 

[MatHaas]

OK, I am off and running. The lug on the ammeter was easy to re-connect the wire to. However, I still got no power to the starter switch. Ammeter must be bad also. So I jumpered the ammeter out of the circuit, and she started right up.

Thanks again for all the great advice.

Sweet. Glad it's fixed!

 

[Windwalker]

Take some pics if you can. Take a picture of your tractor in general. And where you're working at too. I can do some Googling or look on the Mahindra Parts Catalog to try and help trace it down.

Ok, so lets go over what you found here.
So your ignition switch has zero power coming to it on any of the connections. So the issue is power from the battery to the ignition. I wouldn't chase anything further down the line than that at this time.

So if you found a fuse that has power, you know that power from the battery is reaching that point. Now the disconnect is somewhere from that fuse to the ignition switch.

I'd need to see pictures to try and understand where you're working.
A 30 amp fuse is small for a main fuse. The ECU fuse is 30 amps on my tractor, but the main fuse right off of the battery is definitely rated much higher..

really, the best thing I can suggest is physically following the entire harness. That's what I'd do. With a test light. The battery negative is connected to the chassis. The positive should go to a main fuse and then be run it's way to some relays, another fuse block maybe and the ignition switch. I personally would just physically follow it the whole way, looking for damage or a disconnect.

I Have a mahindra 2638 that just did the same thing what did you find out? Mine is a 17 just died no electrical power anywhere.

 

[justin86]

I'm having this same issue right now. I have LS XG3032 2016 model. Except I have power through my ignition switch. When I turn the key to the start position the instrument panel doesn't come on. No lights or gauges move. I've tracked the power from the battery to everything I can think of.

 

[mdg1000]

I have a 1526. Same thing - no power to instrument panel. Note, however, that I connected a charger, and after a while, the power came on, but when I tried to start, it seemed like there wasn't power. So, took the battery in and replaced it - thinking it was bad. Put new battery in, Instrument panel list up, tried to start it, it clicked, and then went dead again. Now, no power on instrument panel again. Very strange.

justin86 did you find anything?​

 

[arrow]

I have a 1526. Same thing - no power to instrument panel. Note, however, that I connected a charger, and after a while, the power came on, but when I tried to start, it seemed like there wasn't power. So, took the battery in and replaced it - thinking it was bad. Put new battery in, Instrument panel list up, tried to start it, it clicked, and then went dead again. Now, no power on instrument panel again. Very strange.

justin86 did you find anything?​

You have a bad ground wire. Replace the terminal first and see if it starts. These wires suffer from internal corrosion so they look ok from visual inspection.
Replacing the wire usually solves this issue.