TX1300F tractor split: any tips or tricks?

marcelPL · Mar 24, 2023

I will soon have to split my TX1300F to replace the clutch.

This is far from my 'normal' world. Is there anybody here who has already done this excercise and has some tips or tricks available?

many thanks
Marcel.

arto98607 · Mar 24, 2023

I took a similar design & vintage tractor engine out for some repairs over 16 years ago - here's few photos showing some of what's involved.

These will help: Metric hand-tools, wood blocks & wedges and engine hoist would be handy to have, but I am sure can be done without it also - it just makes the job lot easier.

Please note the clutch is pretty big for small tractor (19 hp) due to combination clutch for gears & PTO

This was around year 2006 or so:

Almost all back together, except the front end loader!

marcelPL · Mar 24, 2023

Pretty impressive. Good work, mate! I wish you were my neighbor

.

The Iseki (I think) works a bit different. Splitting means the front and rear cannot stay together (like in your photos) . With front wheels still connected. But maybe I am wrong.

I got the parts in today (from Hungary, it took almost 200 euro), so the moment of 'just do this' has come closer...

But thanks for the photos, it already shows quite a lot of what is waiting for me. Being a software engineer, I have no clue about a lot of these things....

Marcel.

arto98607 · Mar 24, 2023

marcelPL said:
Pretty impressive. Good work, mate! I wish you were my neighbor .

The Iseki (I think) works a bit different. Splitting means the front and rear cannot stay together (like in your photos) . With front wheels still connected. But maybe I am wrong.

I got the parts in today (from Hungary, it took almost 200 euro), so the moment of 'just do this' has come closer...

But thanks for the photos, it already shows quite a lot of what is waiting for me. Being a software engineer, I have no clue about a lot of these things....

Marcel.

Marcel,
Thanks, glad if I could help - yeah I see it's a bit on distance in-between us!

Actually during the Ford 1310 disassembly only things sort of 'holding the front axle in place' were the steering link and the front drive shaft, as can be seen below in the zoomed-in section of my previous photo.

IE. The engine acts also as a frame towards the rear, but there is a separate heavy flat-bar type frame from the engine forwards front axle.
The flat-bar frame can partially be seen in one of my photos.

These 1980's design tractors are pretty simple to work on since the cast iron engine/transmission/differential are also the main frame of tractor.

Cheers,

chrismac · Mar 24, 2023

I hope you find it easy to do, I found the 4 wheel drive shaft was up there as about one of the most fiddly (awkward) parts to remove, once you remove all the bits that are attached to the rear, oil pipes, cables, hoses, the engine will lift out of the frame its bolted too, it will be tight, and the bolts are fine thread, a few of mine threatened to pick up but I managed to remove them, I think from memory they are different lengths so be careful when rebuilding,

I'll attach some photos for yo to have a look at what you can expect to see.

DSC02549 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

DSC02548 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

DSC02550 by chrismac2012, on Flickr

I may stand corrected and you can leave the engine fitted to the front axle, rolling it forward.

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

inside the bell housing,

Untitled by chrismac2012, on Flickr

Most off good luck,

Chris

lens12 · Mar 30, 2023

I've always split the tractor to replace a clutch. There is a lot less to remove than pulling the motor. Put blocks between the engine frame & front axle so it doesn't tip. Block the front & use a floor jack to move the back half,

Ernie-32 · Apr 5, 2023

Most importantly is to create a centre-tool before you take the old clutch off and which will garantee you can rebolt the new clutch exactly centrered. If this centering of the new clutch is done nicely, at least with attention to detail, the reassembly will go easily. If not, you might discover the carter doesn't properly match the threads. Temptation to hit the bloody carter with some violence to get bolts in, can be the beginning of another problem... Use a torque spanner (check force tables before you start to see if your spanner meets the requiered range) and lock-tight liquid to not have a spontaneous split in the future

lens12 · Apr 12, 2023

If you don't have a clutch alignment tool, center the dick in the pressure plate. I've done this many times.

ROUSTABOUT · Apr 12, 2023

I always get myself a couple of bolts that fit rear of engine. Let's say 4" long. Cut the heads off. Hacksaw straight down in the bolt to make it so where you can use a flat head screwdriver to remove it. Put those two bolt shanks into Engine for line up pins. I know it has short dowel pins but your input will hit pilot bushing before your trans hits the back of engine. Plus you can kinda measuralize things to see how skrate you are. Be sure you put them two bolts in a place you can remove them from. Ive taken them apart and pilot bearing was gone, not there anymore, so check yours. Be sure to check that.

Ernie-32 · May 10, 2023

So the big question remains : have you started cutting her in two already ????

marcelPL · Jun 20, 2023

So I started the split, but I am kinda stuck here on the drive shaft towards the front wheels.

Does anybody know how to get this black protection cover off? I took out the bolt, but it's completely stuck.

Also the part in the middle does not seem to be ok.

On gearbox side I see a cable or wire running through the connection. Should I just remove this wire and hope the drive shaft will drop when I split it? (And worry about getting it back together later I guess)

Thx for help guys...
Marcel.

View attachment 806838 View attachment 806839 View attachment 806841 View attachment 806840 View attachment 806842 View attachment 806843

marcelPL · Jun 20, 2023

Strange. There should be 6 or 7 photos there, but I can see only 1.

Here is the black cover:

marcelPL · Jun 20, 2023

And here is the middle part:

chrismac · Jun 20, 2023

Hi Marcel, I think I mentioned earlier this would be one of the worst jobs of your clutch change, the cover is just tight, rubber seal, yes cut the wire and knock the pin out, I am trying to remember if I cut boths ends and slid the other end on a bit but cant remember, but by time I am thinking this I possibly did.

Good luck
Chris

Topzide · Jun 20, 2023

We're the wire goes through the front drive shaft is a roll pin that needs to be driven out! Ask me how I know! Had to replace input shaft and coupler on a tx1500.

marcelPL · Jun 26, 2023

Well by now things are not going well.

I have taken everything from tractor to perform the split, but i cannot disconnect the front drive shaft.

At gearbox side I could see and reach this spring pin, but whatever violence I used, it refused to be driven out.

On the front side there is this cover. Somewhere I read this is plastic, but hammering it with steel for sure doesn't sound like plastic. Almost certainly it's metal. And it won't move in any direction, no matter what I try.

Worst of all is that I have this FEL installed, which gives me hardly any room to work. Also this FEL will block the drive shaft when splitting the tractor for more than a few centimeters.

Having to remove the FEL will make the task of splitting the tractor one of epic proportions.

Anybody has any suggestions left?

ptsg · Jun 26, 2023

With my Kubota B7000, almost the same as your Iseki, I always took the loader off. Just so much easier to work on the tractor.

Anyway, try pull the cover and slide it back and see if you can disconnect the front U joint there instead.

marcelPL · Jun 26, 2023

ptsg said:
With my Kubota B7000, almost the same as your Iseki, I always took the loader off. Just so much easier to work on the tractor.

Anyway, try pull the cover and slide it back and see if you can disconnect the front U joint there instead.

Pull it where? I took out the bolt underneath, but the thing refuses to move in any direction.

Also I checked the manual, and cannot see any other thing that might be blocking it...

Thx,
M.

ptsg · Jun 26, 2023

marcelPL said:
Pull it where? I took out the bolt underneath, but the thing refuses to move in any direction.

Also I checked the manual, and cannot see any other thing that might be blocking it...

Thx,
M.

There are 3 bolts on that cover. 1 on the bottom and 2 on the top. Once those are out, you should be able to slide the cover back a little bit.