TYM T474 3rd function kit options

[JimSale]

I’ve been browsing for the past couple of weeks on 3rd function kits for the 474 and can’t seem to get an answer on if the universal kits sold (they’re about half the cost of the tractor specific ones im seeing) will work on the tractor. Any input would be great and small businesses to recommend buying them from also. Thanks

 

[ptsg]

I believe the most popular one is the WR Long kit. Kinda of an universal kit that works with pretty much anything but as with anything universal, it may not fit the best or be the cleanest install.

In some cases, the factory kit comes with nice hard lines that really make for a clean install. These generic kits usually come with just rubber hoses that are zip tied to the loader hard lines. It's up to you what you're looking for.

Also, some factory ones, offer a diverter valve, instead of a 3rd function. There is a lot of debate on what's the best one. A lot of people think that with a 3rd function they are able to do 3 functions at the same time, not true at all, plus the 3rd function will be On/Off, no feathering ability.

The diverter however, diverts the flow from the curl cylinders to the auxiliary circuit and allows you to fine adjust the movement of, lets say a cylinder on a grapple or a snow blade, etc.

Not sure what options TYM offers though, you may want to dig into that.

 

[Torvy]

Not sure about the 474. The 494/574 twins have the 3rd function lines pre-run up to the front of the tractor. You still need the kit to go from the tractor to the loader.

My dealer used the WR Long kit instead of the TYM kit. They had been a Branson dealer and were more comfortable with what they had been using.

 

[ericm979]

The Branson one was a diverter with the solenoid valve out on the loader cross tube.

I have my grapple run off a third function valve mounted on the fender. I never use less than full flow. Even at PTO RPM the lids don't move that fast. It's a two lid grapple. A single lid model with a single cylinder would have the lid move faster.

 

[JimSale]

Thank you all for the responses, they’ve been very informative. It doesn’t seem like there’s too many videos online about the different kinds and that was the first time I’ve heard of the diverter. I believe mine has the pre ran lines that just need the kit as Torvy mentioned to go from the side of the tractor up to the end of loader

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Video of installing the factory kit: The loader valve is ready to bolt the third function onto.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Thank you all for the responses, they’ve been very informative. It doesn’t seem like there’s too many videos online about the different kinds and that was the first time I’ve heard of the diverter. I believe mine has the pre ran lines that just need the kit as Torvy mentioned to go from the side of the tractor up to the end of loader

I am going to install a pair of diverters on my tiny tractor. TYM no longer has the kit for my tractor and loader. I bought a WR Long Kit, and I might be able to install it in the line from the pump, before the factory loader valve like the instructions show. But the tiny tractor doesn’t have a lot of room under there to do anything in.

Started looking at options to mount a diverter valve on the loader arm, and it looks like it will be easiest to install a pair and clamp them to the loader arm one on each side with some all-thread pulling them together to mount them. Next time I get to Big Town, I need to get some steel hard lines, to keep it from looking like I kludged it together.

I found some weatherproof momentary contact switches, which fit in the factory loader handle, and the handle stem is hollow to run a set of wires down. So it should be pretty easy to wire them in.

Now all I need is a couple of free days.

 

[XxLT250RxX]

I am going to install a pair of diverters on my tiny tractor. TYM no longer has the kit for my tractor and loader. I bought a WR Long Kit, and I might be able to install it in the line from the pump, before the factory loader valve like the instructions show. But the tiny tractor doesn’t have a lot of room under there to do anything in.

Started looking at options to mount a diverter valve on the loader arm, and it looks like it will be easiest to install a pair and clamp them to the loader arm one on each side with some all-thread pulling them together to mount them. Next time I get to Big Town, I need to get some steel hard lines, to keep it from looking like I kludged it together.

I found some weatherproof momentary contact switches, which fit in the factory loader handle, and the handle stem is hollow to run a set of wires down. So it should be pretty easy to wire them in.

Now all I need is a couple of free days.

Why two diverter valves? Do you have a link to the momentary contact switches?

 

[TractorTYMe]

I would recommend the factory 3rd function kit, it has steel lines most of the way and is made to use the 2 buttons on the joystick. WR long kits have had moisture get into a printed circuit board on the bottom of the valve rendering them useless.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Decided that it will be easier to mount two diverter valves back to back sandwiching the loader arm, than to track down a suitable plate, and drill it to mount the single valve.

Plus with a diverter on both loader circuits, one of them has float, which could come in handy if I build a Skid Steer to 3-point adapter, and put the rear grader blade on the front to plow snow. Add a cylinder to skew the blade using a diverter. And then try floating either the loader with the angle of attack of the blade fixed, or float the blade angle with the loader arms fixed, and see what works best with what kind of snow.