u-joint issues

   / u-joint issues #11  
from OP"Just replaced all three u joints in the front driveshaft of my 99 F250 SD. Had a shop do it because of that double u-joint"

Correct
 
   / u-joint issues
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I leave my hubs locked in most of the time because I will generally need 4x4 at least 4+ times /week, and yes I am lazy. On this truck it does not seem to affect the fuel mileage, and I do check that every tank. The joint is not a CV joint, it is a double u-joint or cardan joint. This truck has one on the front and rear driveshafts. Replaced the rear last year, same person, and I can grease both the double and single joint. Front shaft, no way. the grease gun fitting can not get into the joint. Still don't see why that application would call for or allow anything except the grease fitting in the end cap. When I get a chance, I might pull the shaft and try to drill the endcaps on a drill press or get a machinist to do it.
 
   / u-joint issues #13  
A double u-joint with a centering ball on a front 4wd driveshaft is also known as a CV joint. Easier to say than cardan joint. You also have to grease the centering ball w/spring which provides pressure for the constant velocity effect. I again will say "a properly rebuilt cv joint is greasable with a needle point adapter($5.00) on a grease gun".
Dave
 
   / u-joint issues
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Ok Dave, I need more help. Pictures or something to show me how that is done. The needle adapters I have, have to have some place to go, and I just don't see it. The CV joints I am use to are the joints on front wheel drive axles, covered with rubber boots, totally different than this double u-joint.
 
   / u-joint issues #15  
As a general rule I was always taught to direct the grease zerk toward the center of the driveshaft. On the cv joint you have to decide between 2 spots on the yoke, one way will provide more clearance, but still keep it facing the center of the shaft. getimage.jpg
Note the direction of the zerk getimage 1.jpg
During assembly, grease the first u-joint that now has all the bearing caps held in place by the shaft and the cv yoke. Also grease the ball and spring fitting. Grease the other u-joint which only has two caps held in place lightly until it starts to push the two loose caps off. It is easier to fill the cavities and caps now than later.
Use this adapter to grease the last zerk after installation.mnk1MOY47E06zzSoyXpe-jg.jpg
If the adapter doesn't work, you can use this to get under the seals or worse case through the seal.ma3YN7qmgqG0YxitjXyfJjQ.jpg
Good luck
Dave
 
   / u-joint issues #16  
Awhile back I drilled a bearing cup just to see if I could do what you suggest. I couldn't touch it with a regular bit and had to use a carbide one. It was too hard to thread with a good quality HHS tap. I never did buy a drive in zerk to see if that would work but I did turn the threads down on a threaded zerk to see if it would drive in, which it did. It wasn't a real tight fit since the bearing cup was too hard as in not elastic enough to expand slightly and grip the threadless zerk and I wasn't really confident that the centrifugal forces acting on it wouldn't dislodge it. There wasn't a lot of meat left where the threads had been after I turned it down and I never did field test it.

That being said, apparently MOOG does have what you are asking for.

MOOG Super Strength Universal Joints
 
   / u-joint issues #17  
I have drilled MANY u-joint caps for grease zerks. Works perfect every time. Drill it out, tap it, install the zerk. Problem solved.
Not sure why everyone says they had trouble drilling it..?? I use Caterpillar drill bits and a 1/2" drive high torque low speed air drill.
 

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