u-joint issues

[cmyoung2]

Just replaced all three u joints in the front driveshaft of my 99 F250 SD. Had a shop do it because of that double u-joint, some things I have learned better than to even try. Even in a shop that does these regularly, it gave them fits-had to cut the old joints with a torch to get them out. My rant is about the grease fittings on u-joints. there was just not enough clearance for the zerk mounted on the body of the u-joint. One was sheared off just from picking up the shaft. After figuring out that the fitting was just too long, finally found a cup type fitting that uses a rounded needle. Clearance was not a problem, still can't grease into it. THen I tried to grease the other joint, can't even get the end of the grease gun into the joint, much less even being able to attach it to the zerk.
SO, why do they put the zerk on the body where you can't get to it? Why not put them in the end cap? I do like to keep things greased that need it, but with these joints it is impossible unless you disassemble the joint-not going to happen.. Can you drill a hole and install a zerk in the endcap? The originals lasted almost 200K miles, would be nice to get similar life out of these. It is the front shaft, but I leave my hubs locked most of the time, so the joints rotate, they are just not under pressure most of the time.

 

[DT86]

First off why leave the hubs locked in all the time?

Those end caps are hard as can be. Last summer I had to replace some U joints on a Vermeer mower which had to have the fittings in the caps. Vermeer wanted something like $45 x 2, I tried to drill a cap to see if i could by some cheap ones locally and relocate the fitting, it did not work. I ended up measuring them and ordering the correct ones online for $50 for both. I'll try to find the name of the company I ordered them from.

 

[DT86]

First off why leave the hubs locked in all the time?

Those end caps are hard as can be. Last summer I had to replace some U joints on a Vermeer mower which had to have the fittings in the caps. Vermeer wanted something like $45 x 2, I tried to drill a cap to see if i could by some cheap ones locally and relocate the fitting, it did not work. I ended up measuring them and ordering the correct ones from a company in found online for $50 for both. I'll try to find the name of the company I ordered them from.

 

[byronlj]

It is not a double u-joint, it is a constant velocity joint. If they had to cut it to get it out, they don't know what they are doing. If you position the u-joints in the CV properly they will have the clearance needed. Most of these including the spring loaded CV member can be greased easily with a needle point adapter on your grease gun. If they messed it up that badly I would think you will be replacing parts again soon. Personally, I would have someone else rebuild it properly.
Dave

 

[Scooby074]

Ford loves to install crappy front (and read) driveshafts.

The slip joint (splines) on my front and completely siezed. They were non greasable. To get it out Im going to have to destroy the shaft. Brilliant!

 

[bandaidmd]

I would have bought a remanufactured shaft rather then pay some local shop to rebuild a CV shaft.

somethmes a little die grinder work while the shaft is out makes those zerks easier to get to, it also matters which way they point them at installation.

 

[bandaidmd]

Ford loves to install crappy front (and read) driveshafts.

The slip joint (splines) on my front and completely siezed. They were non greasable. To get it out Im going to have to destroy the shaft. Brilliant!

yep; bronco II comes to mind. ugh

 

[dusty3030]

Original poster talking about a F250, not F150. Solid front axle not independent front suspension with CV axles.

 

[tcartwri]

There should have been an orientation that allowed you to get the nipple on them. They probably put them together, realized the problem, and just left them that way rather than dis-assembling again. Or they didn't care.

 

[bandaidmd]

Original poster talking about a F250, not F150. Solid front axle not independent front suspension with CV axles.

from OP"Just replaced all three u joints in the front driveshaft of my 99 F250 SD. Had a shop do it because of that double u-joint"

 

[dusty3030]

from OP"Just replaced all three u joints in the front driveshaft of my 99 F250 SD. Had a shop do it because of that double u-joint"

Correct

 

[cmyoung2]

I leave my hubs locked in most of the time because I will generally need 4x4 at least 4+ times /week, and yes I am lazy. On this truck it does not seem to affect the fuel mileage, and I do check that every tank. The joint is not a CV joint, it is a double u-joint or cardan joint. This truck has one on the front and rear driveshafts. Replaced the rear last year, same person, and I can grease both the double and single joint. Front shaft, no way. the grease gun fitting can not get into the joint. Still don't see why that application would call for or allow anything except the grease fitting in the end cap. When I get a chance, I might pull the shaft and try to drill the endcaps on a drill press or get a machinist to do it.

 

[byronlj]

A double u-joint with a centering ball on a front 4wd driveshaft is also known as a CV joint. Easier to say than cardan joint. You also have to grease the centering ball w/spring which provides pressure for the constant velocity effect. I again will say "a properly rebuilt cv joint is greasable with a needle point adapter($5.00) on a grease gun".
Dave

 

[cmyoung2]

Ok Dave, I need more help. Pictures or something to show me how that is done. The needle adapters I have, have to have some place to go, and I just don't see it. The CV joints I am use to are the joints on front wheel drive axles, covered with rubber boots, totally different than this double u-joint.

 

[byronlj]

As a general rule I was always taught to direct the grease zerk toward the center of the driveshaft. On the cv joint you have to decide between 2 spots on the yoke, one way will provide more clearance, but still keep it facing the center of the shaft.
Note the direction of the zerk
During assembly, grease the first u-joint that now has all the bearing caps held in place by the shaft and the cv yoke. Also grease the ball and spring fitting. Grease the other u-joint which only has two caps held in place lightly until it starts to push the two loose caps off. It is easier to fill the cavities and caps now than later.
Use this adapter to grease the last zerk after installation.
If the adapter doesn't work, you can use this to get under the seals or worse case through the seal.
Good luck
Dave

 

[Mace Canute]

Awhile back I drilled a bearing cup just to see if I could do what you suggest. I couldn't touch it with a regular bit and had to use a carbide one. It was too hard to thread with a good quality HHS tap. I never did buy a drive in zerk to see if that would work but I did turn the threads down on a threaded zerk to see if it would drive in, which it did. It wasn't a real tight fit since the bearing cup was too hard as in not elastic enough to expand slightly and grip the threadless zerk and I wasn't really confident that the centrifugal forces acting on it wouldn't dislodge it. There wasn't a lot of meat left where the threads had been after I turned it down and I never did field test it.

That being said, apparently MOOG does have what you are asking for.

MOOG Super Strength Universal Joints

 

[PoorMansCat]

I have drilled MANY u-joint caps for grease zerks. Works perfect every time. Drill it out, tap it, install the zerk. Problem solved.
Not sure why everyone says they had trouble drilling it..?? I use Caterpillar drill bits and a 1/2" drive high torque low speed air drill.