GManBart
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 4,976
- Location
- Detroit, Michigan
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 241, Kubota SVL90-2
boo, go rip the exhaust off your car then, your prolly running out of stuff to weld anway![]()
It's stainless!
boo, go rip the exhaust off your car then, your prolly running out of stuff to weld anway![]()
When 7018 is too hot the rod will glow red hot close to the stinger and sometimes melt before you finish the rod. Had that happen today with some 3/32"so turned the heat down a tad. On your weld with the tubing turn your heat up and go a little slower. Most books say to angle the rod 45 deg's to the joint. I tilt it down a little more so the puddle washes up the vertical plate easier.
Fillet take 2: I went up about 10 Amps, and while not perfect (undercut and porosity at the start and overlap with the prior bead) it seems better. I didn't clean the slag well from the prior beads, so that may be part of the problem when I started a new bead...just have to revisit that. Thinking maybe I went up a little too much in heat, but I'm not sure. The undercut could have simply been me not pausing enough at the top of the zigzag, or the rod angle, right?
My first project tacked together....rear brush screen for the Cat:
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It looks like you had the rod angled more to bottom plate and your heat may be just a touch hot for your current skill set. Could go a little slower to get nice round ripples in the bead. Pointed means a faster travel speed was used. It can be OK sometimes but the weld has to completely fill up to the proper size with no undercut. Try using a shorter arc length too.
"This also has me shopping for a cutoff saw....it never ends!"
Consider it stress relief. Look at Shield Arc, I think he enjoys buying toys as much as he enjoys using them but offers them up for anyone that wants to come over to his fantasy toy box with the 80 ton crane. :cool2: