Ugly beads, critics welcome...

   / Ugly beads, critics welcome... #51  
Looking a lot better!:thumbsup:
What brand of rod are you using?
 
   / Ugly beads, critics welcome... #52  
And maybe you said, but what size and heat setting??
 
   / Ugly beads, critics welcome... #53  
Go a little slower with your 7018. A 1/8" rod should burn 6-7" inches of bead.
 
   / Ugly beads, critics welcome...
  • Thread Starter
#54  
Looking a lot better!:thumbsup:
What brand of rod are you using?

This was all Lincoln Fleetwood 6011 1/8". I'm almost out of it (probably just enough to finish the pad) and have a box of Inweld 6010 to try next. My BIL (a steamfitter with 30+ years of experience) told me to try some 6010 5P+ if I can find it. At this point I figure the brand of rod is likely the last thing I should worry about, but I'll try finding some.
 
   / Ugly beads, critics welcome...
  • Thread Starter
#55  
And maybe you said, but what size and heat setting??

1/8" 6011, and around 105-110 amps (no digital readout on my welder). The plate is 1/4" thick or a touch thicker (haven't measured it). I've been clamping the pad to a very thick plate that's about 16x16" and around 3/4" thick. I'm not sure if that much metal behind the pad makes much difference, but figured it was worth mentioning. I've cooled this pad in water every 2nd or 3rd bead.
 
   / Ugly beads, critics welcome...
  • Thread Starter
#56  
Go a little slower with your 7018. A 1/8" rod should burn 6-7" inches of bead.

Thanks. I've only used just a handful of 7018 so far...in fact every 7018 bead I've done is pictured in this thread. I'll keep the 6-7" figure in mind when I get back to it. I figure it's probably smart to focus on one rod type at a time before I start switching around. Still, I can see why people like 7018!
 
   / Ugly beads, critics welcome... #57  
This was all Lincoln Fleetwood 6011 1/8". I'm almost out of it (probably just enough to finish the pad) and have a box of Inweld 6010 to try next. My BIL (a steamfitter with 30+ years of experience) told me to try some 6010 5P+ if I can find it. At this point I figure the brand of rod is likely the last thing I should worry about, but I'll try finding some.
I like Hobart's 335A 6011. Lincoln's 5P-Plus 6010 is very good too. I like ESAB's 10P-Plus just a little bit better.
All welding machines run a little different. My Everlast PowerArc 200ST I run 1/8" 6010 around 65-AMPS. My Lincoln V350-Pro I run 1/8" 6010 around 75 to 80 amps.
If you run 6010 to hot it won't stack correctly. Also if you have the wrong rod angle it won't stack correctly .
 
   / Ugly beads, critics welcome... #58  
I don't know if I'm strange (okay, I know I'm a bit strange) but I find this a fun challenge. I find myself thinking "just one more stick" when I really should stop to do something else (like get cleaned up for dinner before my wife yells at me!). I figure that's a good sign :)

GManBart!
If you don't get in here for dinner right now, the dog gets it! You don't own a dog.:cool2:
 
   / Ugly beads, critics welcome...
  • Thread Starter
#59  
I flipped the pad over and started a new run. Lowered the amperage to about 90 and used up the last of my 6011. Every time I got what I thought was a decent bead I followed with a stinker!

 
   / Ugly beads, critics welcome... #60  
I think you need to start doing constructive welding rather than just running beads. You've probably learned about all the stick control you are gonna learn there. Fillet welding or any other type of connecting 2 pieces of metal will teach you things you'll never learn running beads on flat metal horizontally.
 

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