Ugly beads, critics welcome...

[GManBart]

I like Hobart's 335A 6011. Lincoln's 5P-Plus 6010 is very good too. I like ESAB's 10P-Plus just a little bit better.
All welding machines run a little different. My Everlast PowerArc 200ST I run 1/8" 6010 around 65-AMPS. My Lincoln V350-Pro I run 1/8" 6010 around 75 to 80 amps.
If you run 6010 to hot it won't stack correctly. Also if you have the wrong rod angle it won't stack correctly .

I've found other threads where you mentioned those rods, but so far I haven't found any of them locally....have to call a couple of other places. I'm out of 6011, so I grabbed a 5lb box of Inweld 6010 at the LWS up the street just to have something to work with. I may bite the bullet and order a 50lb can of one of the three you suggested if I can't find any locally.

 

[GManBart]

I think you need to start doing constructive welding rather than just running beads. You've probably learned about all the stick control you are gonna learn there. Fillet welding or any other type of connecting 2 pieces of metal will teach you things you'll never learn running beads on flat metal horizontally.

Well, that will certainly be more interesting! I've got flat stock, a small pile of plates, and some square stock so I can practice a couple of different welds. I'm going to run over to my neighbor's shop and cut the stock into smaller sections on his large bandsaw to save some time.

 

[Shield Arc]

Normally after pad welding, students move onto lap joints, then fillet joints. After that it's V-butt welds, and bend testing.

 

[bigdeano]

Seems to me if you're going to buy a big box of rods you'd want something other than 6010 or 6011. Other rods, like 7018 or 7014 make stronger, nicer looking welds in the flat position and are easier to use. I only use 6011 on rare occasions for vertical or overhead welds.

 

[GManBart]

Normally after pad welding, students move onto lap joints, then fillet joints. After that it's V-butt welds, and bend testing.

That's sort of what I did when I learned to braze and gas torch weld (poorly, I'm sure). One of my welding projects is a vise stand that will help with bend testing soon

 

[GManBart]

Seems to me if you're going to buy a big box of rods you'd want something other than 6010 or 6011. Other rods, like 7018 or 7014 make stronger, nicer looking welds in the flat position and are easier to use. I only use 6011 on rare occasions for vertical or overhead welds.

The problem there is I don't have a heated rod box to store 50lbs of 7018. I can buy a bunch of 6010 or 6011, keep it in a dry environment and it'll will be good for a long time. If I go that way I also save a little bit by buying in bulk. I can then buy smaller amounts of 7018 as I need it, and not have to worry as much about storage issues.

Besides, at this point it seems like I simply need to burn a lot of stick to learn a few things. I've gone through about 8lbs of rod in less than a week, so it's not like ordering 50lbs is totally crazy. I should add I have a number or projects where 6010/6011 makes sense....rusty/dirty farm stuff that I'll never get very clean. I figured I might as well start with the stuff that can look a little bit ugly

 

[Arc weld]

7018 just have to be kept dry and don't need an oven unless doing code work. I think 5 or 10 pound boxes are the way to go and get the plastic rod containers to keep them sealed in.

 

[Shield Arc]

One of my welding projects is a vise stand that will help with bend testing soon

A compact bender from Harbor Freight will do the same thing. Just make sure you use the 1 1/2-inch round die to wrap the coupons around.

 

[GManBart]

7018 just have to be kept dry and don't need an oven unless doing code work. I think 5 or 10 pound boxes are the way to go and get the plastic rod containers to keep them sealed in.

That's sort of what my plan is, in a way. I figured I'd get a decent amount of 6010 then just plan to buy smaller 5-10lb boxes of the 7018. It's extremely humid here for much of the year, and even keeping them reasonably dry is going to be a problem until I get the heat/AC finished in my shop. I've read so many different opinions on how dry 7018 needs to be that I figured I'd just err on the side of caution.

 

[GManBart]

A compact bender from Harbor Freight will do the same thing. Just make sure you use the 1 1/2-inch round die to wrap the coupons around.

That's a great idea!

On a happy note, I just ordered a PowerArc 200ST from Mark :drink: