I appreciate all the great info! I've read everything and taken notes just dont have time to reply or ask any other questions. I've been busy in the garden and general stuff around here. I leave for work tomorrow(work on a towboat) and I'll be gone for 3 weeks. My local dealer know's I'll be gone and I'll be talking to him during that period. Quick note: When I talked to Barlow's and got that quote he said he would call me back with a more exact quote of the 3800 and give me one of the 3700. He never called back, waited a couple days and tried to call them again and the phone was busy everytime. So I called the other number a few times listed on the site and a guy called me back said he was on vacation and he would have another guy call me but he never did. Kinda disapointed with all the hype they get on here. Anyway I'll check back in on this via my Iphone and I'll keep you all up to date and be looking for any more info you guy's have to share. Thank's again!!
Buying Advice Uncertain
- Thread starter skeet987
- Start date
- Views: 6530
boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,789
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
don't keep track of things.
but with what you are suggesting. i would consider a possible backhoe option. it is just one of them things. they are little more costlier than a FEL. but they are just so useful. when combined with a FEL. and if you take your time to create an area to set your implements on level ground. you can take off the BH fairly easily. to use other 3pt implements.
any tractor you get would be automatic "FEL" front end loader.
i would most likely opt for R1 tires on all 4 tires. with all the hills. and mud you will get into. the R1's will more likely cut a grove through softer mud on top. down to more stable dirt below and keep you moving. while R4's are wider they have traction in mud. but because they are wider. your tires slip quicker in mud and on ice.
chains on tires can be nice for better traction though.
at very min. would suggest a min of 2 remotes on back for any sort of implement. they can be pricy little item. to add later.
i would ask for larger alternator. if needed to run any sort of (work light front or rear). you can buy after market versions that do not look as great but take some time to take things apart and install wiring for. been there done that. working a good night away right till sun goes down. and need to un hook from something and i can not see what i am doing. (rear work lights comes in very handy)
front work lights not the head lights in front of it like a car or truck. but higher work lights that are up on top of the ROPS (roll over protection system) are very nice, when using FEL at night. you can point them down. on the ground to see what you are doing. while you use the regular front head lights to see further away ahead of you.
=================
this is a major one.
Hydro static tranmission with power beyond tranmission.
i hope that is correct termming.....
what ever the terming is. you have a lever up by steering wheel, were you push a button in and flip it up or down to go from "forward to reverse" without ever having to push in a foot pedel clutch.
you have a button on gear shift you push in, to change gears.
and if it comes with a factory FEL on it. it will most likely have a button on a Joystick for the FEL. that you can press. that dumps the clutch allowing full hydraulics to go to work. for faster FEL use.
i use each and every 3 buttons many times on the ford / new holland 555c tractor loader backhoe. granted it is construction rated tractor. but i still see many of these options in new tractors.
just not having to deal with the stinking foot clutch to change directions or to shift gears. is down right foot saver. ((been there done that with foot clutch, i swear a few to many times it felt like my foot was cut off from pressing the clutch in so many times)) and if you are bushing hogging and backing up a lot. or using FEL, grading, it is almost a non stop shifting and changing directions to turn and like. save yourself.
====================
you will eventally get extra implements. heck implements at times are pennies compared to the tractor.
i should take that back.... tractor, FEL, Backhoe are what i have found the most costly little items to have. and then on top of that is a CAB version of a give tractor.
the power beyond hyd kits, TNT (top and tilt) for 3pt hitch, bush hog, box blade, rear blade, work lights, tooth bars, grapel for FEL, thumb for backhoe, tooth bar for FEL, little storage boxes for chains and a couple tools on tractor, these are all small $$$ items. but the Tractor cab or without cab, FEL and backhoe option are the main high dollar ticket items. and can make it or break some setups without paying a lot more extra. as in 1,000 or 2,000 or more bucks. vs going with a different model of tractor.
the 3 pt implements. there a dime a dozen and multi manufacturers. to choose from. and they all can work for majority of all tractors out there.
a bigger tractor is always nice to have. when i say bigger i mean both heavier in weight and more HP (horse power), but many times you can do same thing with smaller tractors it just takes longer.
traction. 4 wheel drive is nice, but also (locking differential button) to lock the rear tires together) and correct type of tires for majority of work you do. even if it means tearing up the yard some. you also might opt for "weighted" rear tires. more so if you looking at doing a lot of box blade / rear blade work, along with FEL work. that extra rear weight can keep them rear tires on the ground. as your the FEL is heaped full of dirt.
with above, "left and right" rear wheel steering breaks. it is a must for me. i stomp on left and right side break peddles all the time. about as much as i step on both of them together at the same time.
when you have a backhoe, there are not many tractors out there that have cabbed versions that also have a backhoe. or less you step into construction tractors. vs utilty tractors that you are most likely looking at. so i might suggest a FOPS (falling object protection system) vs a ROPS (roll over protection system) other words it has some sort of roof. if it has a roof, then you can get some plexi glass or use 4 mil or 6 mil plastic if need be and some ductape and cover the sides and front to help break the very cold wind during the winter.
there are some after market setups out there. and some fabrication that is needed to mount kinda of a U shape across the dash board on some tractors to help break the wind. granted it is no cabed version of a tractor that most likely has a heater in it. but if you can get yourself a "wind break" around you while on the tractor. it can be a "night and day" difference. in how long you can stand being outside on the tractor clearing a drive way and doing stuff on the tractor. though cab versions are cream of the crop. open stations (non cab version of tractors) can work pretty good.
i have to admit. having a shock absorbing seat can be rather nice on uneven ground. granted if you are being grandma on sunday going 10 miles under speed limit. a hard seat is ok. but traveling from one side of property to other side of property and you are in a higher gear and at full throttle. boy does your rear feel sore rather quickly. granted a shock absorbing seat. can still cause you to jump out of your seat. but much easier ride. remember tractors do not have any sort of suspension system on them. that means you feel every stinking little bump there is. and i do mean every one. and with a hard seat it is like going down the road with speed bumps every few hundred feet and you do not slow down when you go over them. and you thought being a kid and getting a belt across your rear when you got in trouble was bad!
post hole digger to deal with fence lines. barb wire un roller, wire mesh fence reel and/or tightener. pending on ground you might opt for a post hole digger with hydraulic cylinder.
you might opt for a plow, Disc, drag harrow or like harrow. or 3pt rake to help make things easier and get better grade of things. possibly a tiller if not plow and disc.
big one for me! a couple hooks on FEL to hook chains to!!!
cigarette lighter spot, no not to light up a cigarette. but to plug in a 12v to 110 converter picked up and most electronic stores for a few bucks. to run a small power tool (drill, saw zaw, small submersible pump, clip on light) or 12v spot light to see what you are doing. 12v grease gun is always a plus. way to many little grease zerts on implements. the old hand pump grease gun gets old rather quick at times.
a weed sprayer!!!! say a 3pt carry all with say 50 to 100 gallon tank on it can work out nicely. 12v on demand pump can be nice setup for dealing with multi flower rose bushes once you have them chopped down. you can also get a PTO pump as well, a pull behind ATV sprayer can work as well. ((backhoe works nicer to tear out there stinking roots or i should say smash them into submission. to get backhoe bucket down into there roots. then a good yank, and keep bucket tight up against boom. lift up out riggers and away you go with entire bush thorns and all to a brushing burning pile!)) ((mechanical or hyd thumb can make life a tad easier for this as well))
===================
i hate to say it, but 28 acres is good amount of land. and if you are going to do maintenance on it. it means cutting down trees, dealing with stumps, re shaping / grading the land to deal with water run off. creating ditches. and maintain road ways err paths
tractor with cab. if no cab. then ability for some sort of wind break around you during winter. ((suggest looking into FOPS)) to make it easier to DIY a wind break during winter.
--FEL,
--Backhoe,
--box blade,
--rear blade,
--bush hog.
--rear work light
--a easily removable tooth bar for FEL. i still like to use nice clean straight cutting edging to do some grading and moving snow.
--front work light (head lights do not count) when you have a FEL,
at min 2 rear remotes.
--some boxes for chains and a couple tools hammer / pliers / chain locks / straight edge screw driver, small pry bar, utility knife 2 pair of gloves / pins / bolts,
--hooks on FEL bucket to hook chains to.
--hook on back of backhoe bucket
--teeth on backhoe bucket
--a spot for water jug or small cooler to hold a couple drinks. ((bungie cord to ROPS or FOPS setup on rear fender is my choice if possible))
--R1 tires with a heavier ply rating. a heavier ply means more thicker rubber in tire in a sense. so less chance of a thorn poking up into tire
--i would most likely opt to go ahead and get "tubes" in all tires. adds a little more rubber that a thorn or nail has to go through before causing a leak / flat tire. and if going with weighted / filled rear tires. you have a little more option in what you fill the rear tires with.
--Hydro static transmission with power beyond. so you can quickly change direction and shift gears,
--left and right rear steering break peddles,
--shock absorbing seat.
--post hole digger
--wire mesh fence stretcher / tightener
===============
it is a lot of the little things that do quickly add up on the price tag. that can almost double the price tag of a bare bone tractor. but boy do they make life a lot easier and much more convenient and pay for themselves at least they do for me (less pain pills, less time going to get something vs getting the job done). i have approx 79 acres half of it is in fields. rest is pasture and lakes. and hills and creaks. if not for the fields would more likely be about same thing you have
but with what you are suggesting. i would consider a possible backhoe option. it is just one of them things. they are little more costlier than a FEL. but they are just so useful. when combined with a FEL. and if you take your time to create an area to set your implements on level ground. you can take off the BH fairly easily. to use other 3pt implements.
any tractor you get would be automatic "FEL" front end loader.
i would most likely opt for R1 tires on all 4 tires. with all the hills. and mud you will get into. the R1's will more likely cut a grove through softer mud on top. down to more stable dirt below and keep you moving. while R4's are wider they have traction in mud. but because they are wider. your tires slip quicker in mud and on ice.
chains on tires can be nice for better traction though.
at very min. would suggest a min of 2 remotes on back for any sort of implement. they can be pricy little item. to add later.
i would ask for larger alternator. if needed to run any sort of (work light front or rear). you can buy after market versions that do not look as great but take some time to take things apart and install wiring for. been there done that. working a good night away right till sun goes down. and need to un hook from something and i can not see what i am doing. (rear work lights comes in very handy)
front work lights not the head lights in front of it like a car or truck. but higher work lights that are up on top of the ROPS (roll over protection system) are very nice, when using FEL at night. you can point them down. on the ground to see what you are doing. while you use the regular front head lights to see further away ahead of you.
=================
this is a major one.
Hydro static tranmission with power beyond tranmission.
i hope that is correct termming.....
what ever the terming is. you have a lever up by steering wheel, were you push a button in and flip it up or down to go from "forward to reverse" without ever having to push in a foot pedel clutch.
you have a button on gear shift you push in, to change gears.
and if it comes with a factory FEL on it. it will most likely have a button on a Joystick for the FEL. that you can press. that dumps the clutch allowing full hydraulics to go to work. for faster FEL use.
i use each and every 3 buttons many times on the ford / new holland 555c tractor loader backhoe. granted it is construction rated tractor. but i still see many of these options in new tractors.
just not having to deal with the stinking foot clutch to change directions or to shift gears. is down right foot saver. ((been there done that with foot clutch, i swear a few to many times it felt like my foot was cut off from pressing the clutch in so many times)) and if you are bushing hogging and backing up a lot. or using FEL, grading, it is almost a non stop shifting and changing directions to turn and like. save yourself.
====================
you will eventally get extra implements. heck implements at times are pennies compared to the tractor.
i should take that back.... tractor, FEL, Backhoe are what i have found the most costly little items to have. and then on top of that is a CAB version of a give tractor.
the power beyond hyd kits, TNT (top and tilt) for 3pt hitch, bush hog, box blade, rear blade, work lights, tooth bars, grapel for FEL, thumb for backhoe, tooth bar for FEL, little storage boxes for chains and a couple tools on tractor, these are all small $$$ items. but the Tractor cab or without cab, FEL and backhoe option are the main high dollar ticket items. and can make it or break some setups without paying a lot more extra. as in 1,000 or 2,000 or more bucks. vs going with a different model of tractor.
the 3 pt implements. there a dime a dozen and multi manufacturers. to choose from. and they all can work for majority of all tractors out there.
a bigger tractor is always nice to have. when i say bigger i mean both heavier in weight and more HP (horse power), but many times you can do same thing with smaller tractors it just takes longer.
traction. 4 wheel drive is nice, but also (locking differential button) to lock the rear tires together) and correct type of tires for majority of work you do. even if it means tearing up the yard some. you also might opt for "weighted" rear tires. more so if you looking at doing a lot of box blade / rear blade work, along with FEL work. that extra rear weight can keep them rear tires on the ground. as your the FEL is heaped full of dirt.
with above, "left and right" rear wheel steering breaks. it is a must for me. i stomp on left and right side break peddles all the time. about as much as i step on both of them together at the same time.
when you have a backhoe, there are not many tractors out there that have cabbed versions that also have a backhoe. or less you step into construction tractors. vs utilty tractors that you are most likely looking at. so i might suggest a FOPS (falling object protection system) vs a ROPS (roll over protection system) other words it has some sort of roof. if it has a roof, then you can get some plexi glass or use 4 mil or 6 mil plastic if need be and some ductape and cover the sides and front to help break the very cold wind during the winter.
there are some after market setups out there. and some fabrication that is needed to mount kinda of a U shape across the dash board on some tractors to help break the wind. granted it is no cabed version of a tractor that most likely has a heater in it. but if you can get yourself a "wind break" around you while on the tractor. it can be a "night and day" difference. in how long you can stand being outside on the tractor clearing a drive way and doing stuff on the tractor. though cab versions are cream of the crop. open stations (non cab version of tractors) can work pretty good.
i have to admit. having a shock absorbing seat can be rather nice on uneven ground. granted if you are being grandma on sunday going 10 miles under speed limit. a hard seat is ok. but traveling from one side of property to other side of property and you are in a higher gear and at full throttle. boy does your rear feel sore rather quickly. granted a shock absorbing seat. can still cause you to jump out of your seat. but much easier ride. remember tractors do not have any sort of suspension system on them. that means you feel every stinking little bump there is. and i do mean every one. and with a hard seat it is like going down the road with speed bumps every few hundred feet and you do not slow down when you go over them. and you thought being a kid and getting a belt across your rear when you got in trouble was bad!
post hole digger to deal with fence lines. barb wire un roller, wire mesh fence reel and/or tightener. pending on ground you might opt for a post hole digger with hydraulic cylinder.
you might opt for a plow, Disc, drag harrow or like harrow. or 3pt rake to help make things easier and get better grade of things. possibly a tiller if not plow and disc.
big one for me! a couple hooks on FEL to hook chains to!!!
cigarette lighter spot, no not to light up a cigarette. but to plug in a 12v to 110 converter picked up and most electronic stores for a few bucks. to run a small power tool (drill, saw zaw, small submersible pump, clip on light) or 12v spot light to see what you are doing. 12v grease gun is always a plus. way to many little grease zerts on implements. the old hand pump grease gun gets old rather quick at times.
a weed sprayer!!!! say a 3pt carry all with say 50 to 100 gallon tank on it can work out nicely. 12v on demand pump can be nice setup for dealing with multi flower rose bushes once you have them chopped down. you can also get a PTO pump as well, a pull behind ATV sprayer can work as well. ((backhoe works nicer to tear out there stinking roots or i should say smash them into submission. to get backhoe bucket down into there roots. then a good yank, and keep bucket tight up against boom. lift up out riggers and away you go with entire bush thorns and all to a brushing burning pile!)) ((mechanical or hyd thumb can make life a tad easier for this as well))
===================
i hate to say it, but 28 acres is good amount of land. and if you are going to do maintenance on it. it means cutting down trees, dealing with stumps, re shaping / grading the land to deal with water run off. creating ditches. and maintain road ways err paths
tractor with cab. if no cab. then ability for some sort of wind break around you during winter. ((suggest looking into FOPS)) to make it easier to DIY a wind break during winter.
--FEL,
--Backhoe,
--box blade,
--rear blade,
--bush hog.
--rear work light
--a easily removable tooth bar for FEL. i still like to use nice clean straight cutting edging to do some grading and moving snow.
--front work light (head lights do not count) when you have a FEL,
at min 2 rear remotes.
--some boxes for chains and a couple tools hammer / pliers / chain locks / straight edge screw driver, small pry bar, utility knife 2 pair of gloves / pins / bolts,
--hooks on FEL bucket to hook chains to.
--hook on back of backhoe bucket
--teeth on backhoe bucket
--a spot for water jug or small cooler to hold a couple drinks. ((bungie cord to ROPS or FOPS setup on rear fender is my choice if possible))
--R1 tires with a heavier ply rating. a heavier ply means more thicker rubber in tire in a sense. so less chance of a thorn poking up into tire
--i would most likely opt to go ahead and get "tubes" in all tires. adds a little more rubber that a thorn or nail has to go through before causing a leak / flat tire. and if going with weighted / filled rear tires. you have a little more option in what you fill the rear tires with.
--Hydro static transmission with power beyond. so you can quickly change direction and shift gears,
--left and right rear steering break peddles,
--shock absorbing seat.
--post hole digger
--wire mesh fence stretcher / tightener
===============
it is a lot of the little things that do quickly add up on the price tag. that can almost double the price tag of a bare bone tractor. but boy do they make life a lot easier and much more convenient and pay for themselves at least they do for me (less pain pills, less time going to get something vs getting the job done). i have approx 79 acres half of it is in fields. rest is pasture and lakes. and hills and creaks. if not for the fields would more likely be about same thing you have
I have a friend that has the L3800 and it is a lot of tractor for the size. He has cleaned a bunch of land and keep the roads up at the hunting camp. As for the seat, I have the m7040 It has reclining seat, suspension it is nice also takes a lot of hurt away from these old bones. When I received the tractor I did not see where a reclining seat would help any. However as I hauled piles of debris from one end of the property to the other to burn it the seat sure made the trip easy. I have tons of debris to move from having land clear cut. Not for that I would looked at the L3800.
Ok I just talked to my dealer, should have the tractor in just a few days. Like I said it's the L4400 w/quick attach fel, rcr1860 5' cutter, sbx60 box blade, round bale spear, 1 rear remote, loaded r1 tires, and just a couple small things. I really appreciate all you fellas for your willingness to give me info to think about. You all helped a lot! Keep an eye out over the next several days in the owning section. I'll be putting up some pics when I get it. Thanks again!
Chilly807
Elite Member
The L4400 will handle a 6 foot bush hog (RCR1872) without any trouble. I'm not sure if the RCR1860 will cover the tractor tracks or not, it's the same one I have and it just covers the track from the L3400. The L4400 is quite a bit wider than the L3400, so you may want to ask the dealer about that before everything is delivered. I don't think there's a big difference in price, maybe $100 or so??
If the BB is the same width (60") you may want to investigate that too.
Anyway, congratulations!! I don't think you'll regret your choice of machinery.
Sean
If the BB is the same width (60") you may want to investigate that too.
Anyway, congratulations!! I don't think you'll regret your choice of machinery.
Sean
I did a quick search online and found that the L4400's width is 62.4" and the wheelbase is 72.6". I should have been paying more attention I guess. The dealer had to order a lot of stuff and im not sure if the BB and cutter are things he had to order. So now I am a little worried. Thanks for bringing that to my attention! I'll call him first thing in the morning!!
Congratulation's on the new tractor, I have the ag tires instead of the r-4's I have the traction that I wanted better than the r-4's, however they do tear up the yard when I have to come into it. I just took mine in for the 50 hour service. I will be glad when they get through with it I have a lot still left to do.
I called the dealer and switched to the 6' cutter. I also got the 72" box blade. The box blade I think is a catch 22. The 72" might be a little big for the tractor as far as having a box full of dirt but on the other hand the 60" might be tucked up under the tractor to much. Thanks again for bringing that to my attention chilli.
