Under Engineering

[SPYDERLK]

I agree to a point :thumbsup:

But...

If a brand new €1500 flat lift plough breaks a leg (not the replaceable tine) within a few days, and can then be repaired and strengthend by a 3rd party for just €30 - wouldn't the manufacturer have been better to charge €1530 in the first place?

And 3 years on - the plough is still going strong

Thing is ... OEM could have done it for much less during manufacture. I doubt it would add more than €5 if done up front. ... but yould never get a chance to know why you were happy.
larry

 

[ray66v]

I agree to a point :thumbsup:

But...

If a brand new €1500 flat lift plough breaks a leg (not the replaceable tine) within a few days, and can then be repaired and strengthend by a 3rd party for just €30 - wouldn't the manufacturer have been better to charge €1530 in the first place?

And 3 years on - the plough is still going strong

Clearly they will not stay in business very long, if all their plows are going to fail on the first few uses.

You have to imagine that they tested the design, and found it serviceable.

The question is, what happened, between when the tests were done, and your plow was built?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Possible he "abused" it by hitting a rock. You can read that as an insufficient performance margin. Fits the subject.:confused3:
larry

 

[buck12]

On my tractor I can't think of any thing that is really under engineered. A couple of things that could be better engineered are the joke of a tool box and the lack of under carriage protection. On my John Deere lawn mower (gt 235) the cheap plastic hood is under engineered.

 

[EddieWalker]

I don't believe anybody can engineer anything that my dad can't break!!!

Eddie

 

[LD1]

I don't believe anybody can engineer anything that my dad can't break!!!

Eddie

:laughing::laughing: I remember that.

But with the repair you had done to that hoe, he is going to have a MUCH harder time breaking it now:thumbsup:

 

[SPYDERLK]

I don't believe anybody can engineer anything that my dad can't break!!!

Eddie

Good picture. I cant say it was underdesigned. It is done with exercise of the Physics, but apparently, by demonstration of the failure, not with an adroit grasp. That potential failure point would have been made much more durable by extending the side bracing [assume its on both sides of the arm?] further down the arm with a more gradual taper. The side braces there were too ridgid and hence the stress riser at their ends was too abrupt. Another advantage would have accrued by peening the weld areas, esp at the ends of the side braces.
llllarry

 

[dodge man]

I orginally thought I would like the plastic on my BX, but after a few years, not so much. It works well on the fenders back by the operators platform, but the front hood, not so good. It resists dents, but mine is getting pretty tore up and craked in a few places.

The other thing that annoys me is on cars and trucks. They engineer the vehcile, but don't always make a way to fix it. For example, we have a 99 Olds Aurora. It took me something like 3 hours to change the headlight bulbs. There was no way to work on them without taking the front end apart. Same job on my Dodge truck took 20 minutes.

 

[slowzuki]

You can get it without removing the wheelwell, I did mine last year and didn't take anything off. It was tight though.

Second thing.....glad I already removed the wheel well. Because the starter on this truck has THREE bolts. One right smack on top. cant get to it from the front of the engine because of the motor mount, and cant get it from below because of how close it is to the frame rail, ya cant get a throw on the ratchet. Solution was about 30" of extensions with a wobbly and angled out the fender well:confused2:

 

[SPYDERLK]

As you all know, I have a Mahindra 7520 that was bought with ML275 FEL and BH. The backhoe sits mostly, but the tractor with filled AGs, equipped for loader work comes in at 12K# or more - depending on the counterweight. A good % of the 1300 tractor hrs has been heavy loader work. The loader has been awesome as a unit, but now its starting to break pins.
,,,The pins are made from Gr5 1-1/8" bolt blanks. - Plenty strong. Trouble is, it turned out in some cases that it was easiest to apply grease from the end of the pin. Pins for these positions are modified by drilling them down the center, then drilling a small hole in at the midpoint to intersect. A shallow groove is machined around it here to promote distributing the grease. This is where the pin fails. Its still plenty strong, but fatigues and cracks at the stress riser. The pins on the bucket carrier and the rams of the curl cyls are modified this way. These are the ones at most risk since the the forces are reversing causing flexing back and forth. -- Ive broken 3 of the six and have replaced them -and now the rest- with solid pins. ... Things bend when these pins fail. The alternate arrangement for greasing is worth it.

Anyone have any ideas how the pins in these areas could have been made to still feed grease from the end, but be more durable?
,,larry