Undercoating

[LD1]

Looking for opinions on what everyone thinks is the best and why.

Seems there is alot of stuff out there, rubberized coatings, oils, fluid film, mixed used oil and diesel in a sprayer, ziebart...etc

Lots of options. Anyone have any issues with what works best in the "salt-belt"

Last truck wasnt in very good shape and was only a 2005. So I got 2016 now and want to do something to prevent this truck from getting cancer like the last one.

 

[dodge man]

Just my opinion but not based on any real world experience. It seems like the rubberized stuff might hold water and salt and make things worse. I can see fluid film working if you can get it where you need it,

 

[mrmikey]

Just my opinion but not based on any real world experience. It seems like the rubberized stuff might hold water and salt and make things worse

I agree, I've not see one yet that doesn't look like crap after a couple of years and they don't seem to stick and than crack which holds the moisture.
I use Krown when I get my truck undercoated, it seems to creep better than anything else I've tried and the garage that does it out my way does a super job which is half the battle IMHO. If I had a second choice it's be Fluid Film.
For doing stuff around the yard, backblade, mower deck etc I use waste oil................Mike

 

[LD1]

Just my opinion but not based on any real world experience. It seems like the rubberized stuff might hold water and salt and make things worse. I can see fluid film working if you can get it where you need it,

Alot of people swear by FF. But just how often should one re-apply. Aerosol cans for $7 at napa???? or by the gallon/pail and put in a sprayer?

How would FF compare to a diesel/oil mix that would be next to free? Or something like waxoyl? (I think that on is popular in europe or canada or something)

Reading MFG's sites....they all swear they are the best.

 

[LD1]

I agree, I've not see one yet that doesn't look like crap after a couple of years and they don't seem to stick and than crack which holds the moisture.
I use Krown when I get my truck undercoated, it seems to creep better than anything else I've tried and the garage that does it out my way does a super job which is half the battle IMHO. If I had a second choice it's be Fluid Film.
For doing stuff around the yard, backblade, mower deck etc I use waste oil................Mike

Been finding krown mentioned alot in my research too.

 

[fried1765]

Looking for opinions on what everyone thinks is the best and why.

Seems there is alot of stuff out there, rubberized coatings, oils, fluid film, mixed used oil and diesel in a sprayer, ziebart...etc

Lots of options. Anyone have any issues with what works best in the "salt-belt"

Last truck wasnt in very good shape and was only a 2005. So I got 2016 now and want to do something to prevent this truck from getting cancer like the last one.

It is HIGHLY unlikely that you will find ANY commercially applied product that will do the job you are hoping for.
Many years ago I purchased a new ARO (brand) rustproofing spray rig, so that I could do the job myself.
As I recall the equipment cost me cost me over $700 at the time (35 years ago?).
At that point in my life I also had a lift in my garage.
It takes several different style wands (some rigid, some flexible) to reach the various necessary areas.
I also removed headlight and tail light assemblies, and bored extra access holes in some sheet metal areas.
The actual product I used was LPS-3, which dries (never actually hardens) to a consistency similar to military Cosmoline.
LPS-3 will slowly seep into all metal seams, but will drain/drip significantly for several days.
In my opinion LPS-3 is a much better product for this use than Fluid Film. (LPS-3 has a Mil. Spec. for corrosion protection)
Commercial applicators would not use LPS-3, because it would drip on a driveway, or garage floor, making the vehicle owner unhappy.
I am 77 years old now, and gave my rustproofing equipment to a friend last year.
My friend has a backyard autobody repair business, and to date, has not even tried my ARO equipment.
My mistake!

 

[LD1]

Ran across some mentions of LPS3 as well.

Krown T40, LPS3, Fluid Film, ACF50, etc.

Seems there are alot of products out there.

And it seems there have been alot of backyard salt spray amature testing of the various products. And seems you can find a test to any of the big players where they were the winner and all the others paled in comparison.

I may just get a 5 gal pail of FF from napa since they stock it....and spray it on with the sprayer.

Nothing is gonna last forever, and nothing is gonna be perfect. Just looking for something that wont leave my truck looking like my last one that was only 14 years old, and blowing trans cooler lines, fuel lines, engine oil pan rotting though, trans pan looking bad, spring clamps (like on radiator hoses) breaking and leaking and leaving me stranded....and oil/coolant lines that look like they could blow any minute. ETC ETC.

 

[oosik]

I have a 2005 F-150 and 2006 Jeep Wrangler. I had their underbody sprayed by Ziebart when they were brand new. Neither shows any sign of rust or corrosion. However - my sons Toyota Tundra is a real mess. But I think that is because he lives in town where they spray urea as a snow/ice melt agent.

Out here in the sticks - where I drive - they uses a sand/salt mix and only at intersections with know problems. I can drive all day and never run into any de-icing agents.

So - I don't really have a good answer for you other than something that you can not do - stay away from areas where they use de-icing agents.

I don't know if the Ziebart treatment helped the corrosion problem and I don't want to find out. It sure helps the noise deadening situation and thats why I had both sprayed.

 

[fried1765]

I have a 2005 F-150 and 2006 Jeep Wrangler. I had their underbody sprayed by Ziebart when they were brand new. Neither shows any sign of rust or corrosion. However - my sons Toyota Tundra is a real mess. But I think that is because he lives in town where they spray urea as a snow/ice melt agent.

Out here in the sticks - where I drive - they uses a sand/salt mix and only at intersections with know problems. I can drive all day and never run into any de-icing agents.

So - I don't really have a good answer for you other than something that you can not do - stay away from areas where they use de-icing agents.

I don't know if the Ziebart treatment helped the corrosion problem and I don't want to find out. It sure helps the noise deadening situation and thats why I had both sprayed.

In heavy salt usage areas the "underbody" is often not the only problem.
Frame and brake line rust can be a major problem, but body panel seam rust is a very insidious thing that Ziebart, or similar treatments do little or nothing to prevent.
Eastern Washington is definitely not a highly corrosive environment, as the "rust belt", and coastal parts of the USA are.

 

[4570Man]

It is HIGHLY unlikely that you will find ANY commercially applied product that will do the job you are hoping for.
Many years ago I purchased a new ARO (brand) rustproofing spray rig, so that I could do the job myself.
As I recall the equipment cost me cost me over $700 at the time (35 years ago?).
At that point in my life I also had a lift in my garage.
It takes several different style wands (some rigid, some flexible) to reach the various necessary areas.
I also removed headlight and tail light assemblies, and bored extra access holes in some sheet metal areas.
The actual product I used was LPS-3, which dries (never actually hardens) to a consistency similar to military Cosmoline.
LPS-3 will slowly seep into all metal seams, but will drain/drip significantly for several days.
In my opinion LPS-3 is a much better product for this use than Fluid Film. (LPS-3 has a Mil. Spec. for corrosion protection)
Commercial applicators would not use LPS-3, because it would drip on a driveway, or garage floor, making the vehicle owner unhappy.
I am 77 years old now, and gave my rustproofing equipment to a friend last year.
My friend has a backyard autobody repair business, and to date, has not even tried my ARO equipment.
My mistake!

So how well did it work?

 

[dodge man]

In my opinion, every vehicle made is rusting, and I own an F150 and the body is aluminum. It not a matter of if its going to rust out, but when. It might be next week or a 100 years. Anything you can do to slow it down helps. You just want to make sure you don't make it worse by plugging up any drain holes.

 

[fried1765]

So how well did it work?

It worked GREAT!
I was living in Minnesota at the time, and did all my own cars for a number of years, and those of several close friends as well.
It was a messy all day job though, even with my garage lift.
The LPS-3 does wear off the exposed areas after several years, and those areas need to then be re-shot.
Living in Florida for the past 25 years, I have not needed to do anything, thus I eventually gave my ARO rig away.
A son does still have my 1977 (41 year old) F-250 4x4 though, and that is one of the vehicles I did.

 

[LouNY]

I took my 2015 RAM to Vermont to get it waxoyle'd the year I bought it,
I'm contemplating getting it reapplied so far the under carriage of the pickup looks good.
I also take it through the car washes with the under carriage wash frequently in the winter.
I have compared my truck to others of the same age and it looks better underneath.

Waxoyl USA | Offering 36o of Protection from Corrosion.

 

[PILOON]

Another product that works is raw linseed oil. It seeks rust and will enter all those welded seams as well.
When heated it gets very fluid but thickens as it dries.

In early tubular aircraft it was a standard to treat the inside of the structural tubing.

 

[WhiteRam]

Krown is well worth the money, start off with a 壮alt eliminator wash each May followed by a hot summer Krown treatment.

 

[coobie]

Another vote for Krown..

 

[Al 2]

We all have our preferences for one reason or another. I used used engine oil in the past as have many others. Messy and free and seemed to work. You want something that will creep into seams and joints and somewhat stick to the vehicle. I think one of the problems with most companies and shops is the guy applying it. As in every trade, some employees are better than others and some just don't care. Some get paid per car so the more they can do in a shift, all the better for them or if they got a hot date waiting for them , to bad for the customer. Also many condos and apartments with indoor parking have certain restrictions relating to undercoating that might drip. Another discussion for another time is the pros and cons of electronic rust protection.
Al

 

[/pine]

IMO non permanent applications that have to be reapplied on a regular basis would be a real PITA...

An outside the box suggestion is building a simple undercarriage wash system...some type of (maybe pex) grid with a pattern of directional sprinkler heads...don't know how practical it would be but flushing with fresh water is still the standard for a lot of marine (salt water) equipment...

 

[WhiteRam]

We all have our preferences for one reason or another. I used used engine oil in the past as have many others. Messy and free and seemed to work. You want something that will creep into seams and joints and somewhat stick to the vehicle. I think one of the problems with most companies and shops is the guy applying it. As in every trade, some employees are better than others and some just don't care. Some get paid per car so the more they can do in a shift, all the better for them or if they got a hot date waiting for them , to bad for the customer. Also many condos and apartments with indoor parking have certain restrictions relating to undercoating that might drip. Another discussion for another time is the pros and cons of electronic rust protection.
Al

Electronic rust protection is a gimmick, just a snake oil - nothing beats an annual desalt wash, then krown application.

 

[DK35vince]

I spray my truck with oil every year. (been doing that for the past 22 years I've owned the truck). (1991 Ford F-250) Runs every winter in Western,PA salt/calcium and still looks good, minimal rust.
I've used everything from used motor oil, linseed oil, fluid film, Etc.
Linseed oil seems to stick well, but will dry out and crack over time.
Fluid Film sticks well, but doesn't penetrate in cracks/crevasses well.
Personally I would use used motor oil first time to penetrate, then use Fluid Film for a while then hit it with motor oil again on occasion. (no experience with Krown)
I drilled holes in the door jams so I can spray in the doors, cab corners, Etc. Also drilled holes in the bed wheel wells to spray good around rear fender wells., inside the tail gate, Etc. (rubber plug the holes when done spraying)