Undercoating

[dodge man]

In my opinion, every vehicle made is rusting, and I own an F150 and the body is aluminum. It not a matter of if its going to rust out, but when. It might be next week or a 100 years. Anything you can do to slow it down helps. You just want to make sure you don't make it worse by plugging up any drain holes.

 

[fried1765]

So how well did it work?

It worked GREAT!
I was living in Minnesota at the time, and did all my own cars for a number of years, and those of several close friends as well.
It was a messy all day job though, even with my garage lift.
The LPS-3 does wear off the exposed areas after several years, and those areas need to then be re-shot.
Living in Florida for the past 25 years, I have not needed to do anything, thus I eventually gave my ARO rig away.
A son does still have my 1977 (41 year old) F-250 4x4 though, and that is one of the vehicles I did.

 

[LouNY]

I took my 2015 RAM to Vermont to get it waxoyle'd the year I bought it,
I'm contemplating getting it reapplied so far the under carriage of the pickup looks good.
I also take it through the car washes with the under carriage wash frequently in the winter.
I have compared my truck to others of the same age and it looks better underneath.

Waxoyl USA | Offering 36o of Protection from Corrosion.

 

[PILOON]

Another product that works is raw linseed oil. It seeks rust and will enter all those welded seams as well.
When heated it gets very fluid but thickens as it dries.

In early tubular aircraft it was a standard to treat the inside of the structural tubing.

 

[WhiteRam]

Krown is well worth the money, start off with a 壮alt eliminator wash each May followed by a hot summer Krown treatment.

 

[coobie]

Another vote for Krown..

 

[Al 2]

We all have our preferences for one reason or another. I used used engine oil in the past as have many others. Messy and free and seemed to work. You want something that will creep into seams and joints and somewhat stick to the vehicle. I think one of the problems with most companies and shops is the guy applying it. As in every trade, some employees are better than others and some just don't care. Some get paid per car so the more they can do in a shift, all the better for them or if they got a hot date waiting for them , to bad for the customer. Also many condos and apartments with indoor parking have certain restrictions relating to undercoating that might drip. Another discussion for another time is the pros and cons of electronic rust protection.
Al

 

[/pine]

IMO non permanent applications that have to be reapplied on a regular basis would be a real PITA...

An outside the box suggestion is building a simple undercarriage wash system...some type of (maybe pex) grid with a pattern of directional sprinkler heads...don't know how practical it would be but flushing with fresh water is still the standard for a lot of marine (salt water) equipment...

 

[WhiteRam]

We all have our preferences for one reason or another. I used used engine oil in the past as have many others. Messy and free and seemed to work. You want something that will creep into seams and joints and somewhat stick to the vehicle. I think one of the problems with most companies and shops is the guy applying it. As in every trade, some employees are better than others and some just don't care. Some get paid per car so the more they can do in a shift, all the better for them or if they got a hot date waiting for them , to bad for the customer. Also many condos and apartments with indoor parking have certain restrictions relating to undercoating that might drip. Another discussion for another time is the pros and cons of electronic rust protection.
Al

Electronic rust protection is a gimmick, just a snake oil - nothing beats an annual desalt wash, then krown application.

 

[DK35vince]

I spray my truck with oil every year. (been doing that for the past 22 years I've owned the truck). (1991 Ford F-250) Runs every winter in Western,PA salt/calcium and still looks good, minimal rust.
I've used everything from used motor oil, linseed oil, fluid film, Etc.
Linseed oil seems to stick well, but will dry out and crack over time.
Fluid Film sticks well, but doesn't penetrate in cracks/crevasses well.
Personally I would use used motor oil first time to penetrate, then use Fluid Film for a while then hit it with motor oil again on occasion. (no experience with Krown)
I drilled holes in the door jams so I can spray in the doors, cab corners, Etc. Also drilled holes in the bed wheel wells to spray good around rear fender wells., inside the tail gate, Etc. (rubber plug the holes when done spraying)