Underground wire size question

[buickanddeere]

100 amps is plenty for the shop but a 200 amp can be routed from the house's 200 amp supply to the shop via the feed through transfer switch I posted earlier. There will be less light dimming when an arc is struck or when a compressor starts with the heavier 200 amp supply. Not going to be operating a 10HP compressor, plasma cutting 1" steel plate, welding at 250 amps, running a 4.8KW water heater and a 5 ton AC unit simultaneously.

 

[zoedog2012]

Thank you everybody! We have enough information now to make the correct decision.

 

[buickanddeere]

The other alternative is to bury the high voltage from the road to the house and locate the 4800V to 120/240 service transformer in the back yard.

 

[RNeumann]

The other alternative is to bury the high voltage from the road to the house and locate the 4800V to 120/240 service transformer in the back yard.

I said the same thing. It may be cheaper and would be a better option in the long run. It's just a matter of getting the utility to go along with that plan.

 

[zoedog2012]

I said the same thing. It may be cheaper and would be a better option in the long run. It's just a matter of getting the utility to go along with that plan.

the transformer also services the adjoining property

 

[RNeumann]

It comes down to cost. Some utilities wouldn't charge much to install a transformer while others would charge tens of thousands. I'm betting you will have around 10k in wire and conduit alone. If the utility charged that much or less I'd do that instead. I think what a few of us are saying is it's worth asking.

 

[zoedog2012]

We will certainly ask the electric co-op what they can do. There will be 8 other folks in the same boat and I have a feeling electric company is going to say sorry unless you all go all electric.

 

[RNeumann]

For reference I did a very similar project in North Idaho about a year ago. Power at the road, the house and shop about 500' off the road. The utility allowed us to place the conduit and junction box. They charged about $3000 for the transformer and $3/ft for wire. They also charged a connection fee of about $2000. So for $6500 the project ended up with a transformer and meter between the house and shop- making both runs from there very manageable. The other nice aspect with this setup (besides voltage drop and cost) is the fact the utility owns and maintains everything on their side of the meter.

Either way you have the info needed to make it happen. Good luck with the project and enjoy the new home!

 

[pinetree10]

I have a small building i want to run about 20-30amps in 110V to. My run is 180 feet from my electrical panel to the building.

I have searched "electrical" and gone back 8 pages to no avail.

I won't be welding etc. All i want are about 6 light fixtures (LED) and a couple outlets for a drill or hand saw.

I don't have any 220v needs....

Would say #10/2 with a ground work? I was having trouble looking at charts and understanding on line. I am not an electrician.

Thank you!
Bill

I had a similar situation to yours a few years ago. I built a detached garage/oversized shed and wanted just some lights and receptacles for basic equipment maintenance. The building is about 60 feet from the house and the main panel is another 50 feet away at the other end of the basement. I ran 10-2 Romex wire inside the house from the main panel to the outside wall at the opposite end of the house, then transitioned to 3/4" conduit and ran #10 stranded wire underground to the new building. Once I got to the new building I transitioned to #12 Romex and put a bunch of T8 fluorescent lights and receptacles in. The place is well lit and I have no complaints. Everything is fed from a 20 amp GFCI breaker and the main in the new building is just a heavy duty single pole switch, which code required at the time. I also ran a separate 3/4" conduit to the new building for phone and fire/security alarm system wires.

I started the run with 10 wire because I wanted to prevent voltage loss, and I've had no problem with dimming lights or voltage drop over that distance. I've run a compound miter saw and a bench grinder while running the space heater with no problem either. It's always nice to have a small sub panel in accessory buildings but if you're serious about needing just the basics then keep it simple. You know what you need there. Let us know how you make out.

 

[bfisherman11]

Thanks Gus, I was looking at wire and wanting #8 but only saw stranded wire not solid copper. I was not sure I could use stranded wire but see you did. Looks like I can. I was at Home depot so not sure if that was the best place for wire, I have always thought it was decent. Funny, they did have the sold copper ground wire.

Bill

 

[pinetree10]

Yeah you have to run stranded wire in conduit. Lowes and Home Depot sell lots of wire but you can always go to an electrician supply house in your area if you have questions you want answered or if you want a more specialized product not found in the big box home improvement stores. I bought my fluorescent light fixtures at the supply house because they sell a higher quality product.

Romex is for interior residential use and cannot be put inside conduit. You could bury underground wire but I'm not a fan of that because shovels and rocks can damage it a lot easier than they can damage PVC conduit. There's nothing wrong with going bigger and putting in a sub panel out there but only you know what you need. If you think you'll want more than one circuit or might want a 240 volt heater or a welder or something, the single circuit thing I did won't work. Good luck.

 

[TCJatko]

The MINIMUM with voltage drop calcs should be 4/0 with a #2 ground wire. Depending on the stove, dryer and heat pump you may notice lights dim. If it was me I'd be thinking about #250 or #500 and a 1/0 ground.

Either way I'd run 3" sch 40 PVC. Calcs would allow for 2 1/2" for the smallest wire, but with that run WHY......

This all assumes THHN/THHW copper wire.

Be prepared to handle that size length and number of wires. It may be easiest to rig something to hold the spool/spools. Also plan on renting a wench. This is a multiple person job.
Had the utility set the meter and transformer near the house you would save a lot of hassle. They would run 1 wire up to the transformer.

For entertaining the workers?

 

[RNeumann]

Oh classic! Can I spell or what! I believe I need to do this - *winch

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Okay, lets get this straight:

This is a wench:

View attachment 506026


This is a winch:

View attachment 506027


Maybe you think the spelling doesn't matter, but try bringing home a new wench instead of a new winch and see what your wife has to say about it.

Any questions?

 

[buickanddeere]

Okay, lets get this straight:

This is a wench:

View attachment 506026

That is a good wench however the term is not as praiseworthy as it should be quote "
This is a winch:

View attachment 506027


Maybe you think the spelling doesn't matter, but try bringing home a new wench instead of a new winch and see what your wife has to say about it.

Any questions?

wench
historically a non-derrogatory word for a woman who was not a lady. thus a waitress in times of yore was a "serving wench." more modernly synonymous with b i t c h or s l u t but slightly less offensive
Call over the one of the kitchen wenches, i must needs have more ale. " Unquote. Urban dictionary .

Personally I think the definition should be updated to something with all due positive respect.