Understanding I-match

[mx125]

I have a new 2320 and a JD LX5 (last year model), JD ballast box, and a tiller from another mftr (Del Morino URT150E/D). I'm finding the switching of the implements a major pain . . on and off the tractor 10 times fwd/back. Struggling to get the pins lined up. Lift/lower . . fwd back to change the angles. It's probably par for the course . .and I'm doing it on meadow grass . .not perfect concrete slab, so the angles always change and I can't slide my cutter even 1 inch. And I don't want to damage the arms when moving a a foot fwd/back with only one arm and top link attached to get things lined up.

Maybe I need tips for that process . . .also my 3PH does not drop very low. And changing the link holes would limit the max height, which is not very high. That's another story.

Anyway . . . .I love the "idea" of the i-match but not really familiar with them and understand it will likely only work on my LX5 and Ballast box . .not on the tiller. Although I can't figure out what it is about the JD implements that make them compatible. The tillers look similar in attachment points . . but there must be something specific. I quickly asked the salesperson early on and he said the implements are very specific and with a hydro it's easy anyway.

Can anyone explain what the difference is on the implement side and if there are ways to adapt non JD implements?

I should also ask if the i-match is actual the answer? Does it make it MUCH easier or will I still struggle on imperfect ground?

Many thanks.

 

[kennyd]

Hey you stole my AVATAR

The Imatch works on JD's newer stuff because it's built to a standard that a lot of other manufacturers are either starting to adhere to, or just don't care enough to follow.

Your tiller may certainly work, it's kinds hard to tell till you try to hook it up. If it doesn't, you can certainly modify the implement to fit by cutting/welding the mounts where you need them. I have done that with two things-one was easy, one was a royal PITA!

The Imatch is a blessing once you get all your stuff to fit it. If you do a search on it, you'll be hard pressed to find many negative comments about it.

 

[orlo]

I second that. I have I match on my 3320 but not on my 2305. But what I do have (A good choice if you have a lot of non-imatch implements) is Pat's easy change system. It is basically the end's of an imatch (the spring loaded pawl but each one goes independently on each arm. I-Match requires 27" between the pins. More and the I match won't fit. Too much less and it won't either. It also requires a specific Lift Pin to Top pin alignment. With Pat's system you can hook up any width implement.

 

[mx125]

Hey you stole my AVATAR

The Imatch works on JD's newer stuff because it's built to a standard that a lot of other manufacturers are either starting to adhere to, or just don't care enough to follow.

Your tiller may certainly work, it's kinds hard to tell till you try to hook it up. If it doesn't, you can certainly modify the implement to fit by cutting/welding the mounts where you need them. I have done that with two things-one was easy, one was a royal PITA!

The Imatch is a blessing once you get all your stuff to fit it. If you do a search on it, you'll be hard pressed to find many negative comments about it.

first of all . .I TOTALLY stole your avatar. Sorry! I was trying to upload pictures and a JD, but, obviously couldn't get it right . . and then I tried the right click save upload. It's a smaller world than i thought. I'll take it down . .in retrospect . . it was a bad idea.

Thanks for the info. I'll call my dealer and likely get one . .and deal with the tiller.

It is basically the end's of an imatch (the spring loaded pawl but each one goes independently on each arm. I-Match requires 27" between the pins. More and the I match won't fit. Too much less and it won't either. It also requires a specific Lift Pin to Top pin alignment. With Pat's system you can hook up any width implement..

That's good info. I will measure the pins. I'm not sure about the top pin, but i would have thought if it fits the LX5 it should be the correct length and/or adjust to work. Then again . .

Is there a specific height between the lower 2 pins . . . and the top link hole that's spec'd? My tiller does not have exposed lower pins like on the BB and the LX5 . . .there are 2 slots per side into which I slide a pin (like a top link connection.)

Thanks for the info!

 

[JCB]

MX,

I think I hooked up a rear blade one time and thought. "My wife is NEVER gonna do this." I got a quick hitch the next week.

If you're want to stick with Deere...great! Otherwise, consider an imatch clone. Speeco brand is a decent one and you can get them at Tractor supply or the like. Harbor freight also sells a similar version.

The quality and finish isn't as good on the clones, but you do get an adjustable top hook that "may" make it easier to hook up your tiller.

Regarding the clones. For me, sometimes it takes a couple tries to get the implement hooked up and seated, but it is always easier than muscling it into place.

Joe

 

[Tact]

I recently bought the quick attach from Harbor Freight for $60. For that price it was a no-brainer. Yesterday I installed it and hooked up my Woods mower. Everything fit great except the bolts that hold the top hook rubbed the mower top link. I think it need to be ground a tad. Otherwise, it worked great.

 

[mx125]

Thanks guys. You're right . . the adjustable top link might make life easier. It's not getting off the tractor that bothers me . .it's just the hammering/kicking/hauling and just plain frustration. And . . as you said . .my wife will never be able to get it done. I'll look at the TSC for a clone and check the dealers for harbour freight etc.

So it sounds like the "height" of the top link is the limiter on the I-match .. . and the reason I'll hit a snag with the deere? ie. Given acceptable lower pin width, the imatch seems to connect to a lower hole in the LX5 (for example) . . .meaning a standard top link hole is too high. Does that make sense? So IF I wanted to stick to deere, perhaps drilling a hole second, lower, hole in the tiller would work (although that 1/2 or 3/8 steel is daunting!!)

Thanks.

 

[jdbower]

Spring has sprung so I'm coming out of hiding (along with my Deere ). If you want to know if your attachment will work, you can compare measurements to Figure Two of this link:
LSU AgCenter . Will an ASAE Standard Quick Hitch Fit?

 

[mx125]

Spring has sprung so I'm coming out of hiding (along with my Deere ). If you want to know if your attachment will work, you can compare measurements to Figure Two of this link:
LSU AgCenter . Will an ASAE Standard Quick Hitch Fit?

Thanks for the link Jeff. I'll measure the relavent dimensions on my tiller and see where I stand. I think the top link height and offset from the lower pins is the trick. I wish I'd measured that before I left the property!! And my tiller (del morino), although new, is Italian and can't seem to find a dealer that might have insight as to conformity.

Thanks.

 

[jdbower]

The only thing I have issues with is my DR Chipper - I think the three points line up OK (I'll have to check, it's been a while) but there's a support blocking the toplink so I can't get under it (the mounting requires that I slip the toplink in from front to back - I usually tilt the chipper back to do this). Eventually I want to use this as an excuse to get a welder to fashion my own bracket, but a tiller is subject to a lot more force than just lifting the chipper.