Understanding I-match

[JCB]

But I think the HF one is a long term mistake

Kenny,
I think your statement is mostly correct, and I agree with you regarding quality. But, I think that Speeco has a better design with the adjustable tophook. The flexibilty it provided was main my reason for getting a Speeco versus an imatch, and the adjustable tophook has already come in handy for me, just like I thought it would.

If I were going to stick with only JD attachments that were published as imatch compatible, I'd get an imatch. Because I knew I would get some used attachments, the flexibility of the tophook was appealing.

By moving the adjustable tophook-one time, I've been able to hook up everything and never needed to use my welder. The Speeco isn't green (and that hurts a little!), but its got a lot of steel and still saves my back from muscling the implements into place.

All that said, I'm sure the next attachment I get probably won't work on either , and I'll need the welder anyway

 

[LWB]

Not exactly on topic, but very close. Do any of you guys have experience with the 3 point hitch drawbar and lock assembly? I've been using a homemade lock assembly but finally decided to buy the real thing for safety reasons. My problem is it doesn't seem to fit as described. The channel bar that goes over the lift arms is welded and the welds interfere with sliding it into place properly to bolt it on. I can grind it down, but will compromise strength. I bought two, so maybe that isn't an issue if they're built to be strong enough with just one under normal circumstances. Also, can they be used without having to remove the Imatch? I took mine off but it would be a lot handier not to. I've never used these doo dads and I might be missing something here. Thanks.

 

[kennyd]

Kenny,
I think your statement is mostly correct, and I agree with you regarding quality. But, I think that Speeco has a better design with the adjustable tophook. The flexibilty it provided was main my reason for getting a Speeco versus an imatch, and the adjustable tophook has already come in handy for me, just like I thought it would.

If I were going to stick with only JD attachments that were published as imatch compatible, I'd get an imatch. Because I knew I would get some used attachments, the flexibility of the tophook was appealing.

By moving the adjustable tophook-one time, I've been able to hook up everything and never needed to use my welder. The Speeco isn't green (and that hurts a little!), but its got a lot of steel and still saves my back from muscling the implements into place.

All that said, I'm sure the next attachment I get probably won't work on either , and I'll need the welder anyway

JCB,
I still think having to move the top hook takes the "quick" out of "quickhitch" for me, but I'm glad it works for you, that is what's important.

I guess the main point here is that a quickhitch, whether it's the Imatch, the HF version, the Landpride version, or the Speedco version doesn't really matter, just get one that you like and stop wrestling you implements

 

[kennyd]

Not exactly on topic, but very close. Do any of you guys have experience with the 3 point hitch drawbar and lock assembly? I've been using a homemade lock assembly but finally decided to buy the real thing for safety reasons. My problem is it doesn't seem to fit as described. The channel bar that goes over the lift arms is welded and the welds interfere with sliding it into place properly to bolt it on. I can grind it down, but will compromise strength. I bought two, so maybe that isn't an issue if they're built to be strong enough with just one under normal circumstances. Also, can they be used without having to remove the Imatch? I took mine off but it would be a lot handier not to. I've never used these doo dads and I might be missing something here. Thanks.

No personal experience here with the drawbar locks, I don't need one.

 

[mx125]

Just to clarify, I was kidding, I don't care if you use it, I stole it off of the JD website, I certainly do not own it! All is good here

Back to the Imatch:
Its a shame the prices are so high up there But I think the HF one is a long term mistake, Just from a quality point of view. You bought a JD because you thought it was the best, so don't hang a HF piece of crap on the back just because it's a few bucks cheaper.
***THAT IS JUST MY OPINION, IT MAY BE WORTH WHAT YOU PAID FOR IT***

I am also sure you will be hooking up and taking off the mower and the ballast box allot more that the tiller, so I would not let that be a deal breaker for me. You only need the tiller 2 time a years right?

As for the Landpride and HF adjustable top hook, I just do not see the point in it myself. If you need to adjust the hook for each implement, it kinda takes the "quick" out of quickhitch for me

Bushings are needed, but they do not need to be the $40.00 JD ones. You can get close to the size required buy using black pipe, or other bushing from a local farm supply store like TSC if there is any up there.

Fist off . .it's DEFINITELY all good. Emotion is such a pain to convey on paper. . but I knew you were kidding 100% . .I just need to get more creative!!

And on your post. You're right . . I won't use the tiller much compared to the cutter (all summer) and ballast box. Although we have a small dirt bike track and a smalller one for the kids and i do use the tiller to chop up the weeds/grass and to level the ruts . . and I will be creating a couple of deer pastures (1/2 to 1 acre) so i guess I do plan to keep the tiller in infrequent use while most have them in the shed for fall. But . . . Removing an imatch (or similar) is something my wife could do and is a time . .not a strength/sweat/cut fingers/angry thing. The same goes for adjustable top link. I see your point on the "UN-quick" aspect of that . .but I'd be happy to effortlessly move a pin . .it's the other stresses I'd like to solve. And I would really prefer to go green, and would certainly trust the imatch. I know I'd be happier in the long run if I could make it work. I just thought if I'm forced to take a chance . . a harbour freight at $80 is disposable . .vs. $400 on the JD. TSC canada can get the speeco, but no word on price yet and time could be 8 weeks. Harbour freight is in stock in Buffalo and I can pick up some wings while I'm there!

But I will head to the property tomorrow and take specific measurements. If the lower arm spacing works and if I think a lower hole on my tiller top link will make my tiller imatch compatible, i bet I'll go with JD.

Then I'll figure out the tiller bushing solution for "lower clevis pin setup" as landpride calls it.

 

[AKfish]

$400 for the JD I-Match??? The JD configurator (build your own) lists the hitch for $244. And there's usually some "wiggle room" on the final price with the dealer -- 10% at least.

And I thought Alaska prices were (are) high!

AKfish

 

[mx125]

$400 for the JD I-Match??? The JD configurator (build your own) lists the hitch for $244. And there's usually some "wiggle room" on the final price with the dealer -- 10% at least.

And I thought Alaska prices were (are) high!

AKfish

I was quoting the Cdn price plus 3 bushing sets converted to US dollars that I was quoted. Everything is expensive in Canada. My dealer said he could do a little better and throw in some busings which gets me back to about 320 USD. If it fits my needs, I'll pay it.

 

[AKfish]

Should have backtracked a bit on the earlier posts. that makes more sense (cents).. Especially if they throw in some bushings -- that's not too bad a price.