Update on my pole barn project

[rick1ryan]

My house has a den the previous owner finished with T-111 to make it look rustic. It does, however it's a pain with dust and spiderwebs. I can't imagine how much grime would hang in it in a garage/barn. I'd go with something more smooth.

How about something like this? It's pre-finished, 1/4" thick, MDF (and cheap). I'm thinking to finish out the interior walls with this stuff, then blow in insulation.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Georgia-Pacific-48-in-x-8-ft-Smooth-White-MDF-Wall-Panel/1000349191

 

[rick1ryan]

BTW, here's something else I'm considering. It might be too busy but I'm thinking to have a lot of drapery work that will help the flow.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/32-sq-f...hevron-Whistler-Paneling-PANCH-I48W/307991142

 

[two_bit_score]

How about something like this? It's pre-finished, 1/4" thick, MDF (and cheap). I'm thinking to finish out the interior walls with this stuff, then blow in insulation.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Georgia-Pacific-48-in-x-8-ft-Smooth-White-MDF-Wall-Panel/1000349191

That looks good!

 

[EddieWalker]

Are you going to add any windows before finishing off the walls on the inside?

Have you had any event planners out to look at the building and get their advice on what you should do to attract the most people?

Are you really going to use paneling on the interior?

 

[farmer2009]

What about something like this? Instead of paneling. https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...260405-c-8178.htm?searchTermToProduct=5016247

 

[fried1765]

My house has a den the previous owner finished with T-111 to make it look rustic. It does, however it's a pain with dust and spiderwebs. I can't imagine how much grime would hang in it in a garage/barn. I'd go with something more smooth.

Definitely no T-111 inside!
It will be impossible to keep clean,....... even if you paint it.

 

[Loaderman22]

Here's my 2 cents...
You will get the most coverage & it would be most cost effective to go with sheet goods to close in the walls. Your 2 panel ideas would install the fastest, & are cheaper per sq.ft. than the individual barnwood boards mentioned earlier. The mdf type products will be more stable through the changes in humidity and temperature figuring that this space wont be conditioned all the time. Downside, the sheets will have a tell tale seam every 8 feet. However you could do the chevron or similar up to 36"-48" high, add a true chair-rail to protect it from the chairs along the walls, then do gypsum board (sheetrock) above.

You could also look into these products:

Nantucket Beadboard - Standard Bead

They have 1/4" thick, but you really want to put something behind it as its not super stiff, the 1/2" thick or thicker would be better right onto the studs. They also carry beadboard in thin (1/8") or so sheets at your local box store, but the grooves/beads look cheesy. Its easy to wipe off & if painted white its timeless at least up in these parts.




You could also put fake columns inside every 20' to make it look like an old post & beam barn,
or go classic & put in a built up columns out of pvc. See the columns on the walls?

The best idea may be to go with your gut & put in what fits your local customers, I wouldn't go to Maine for my wedding looking for a western themed venue. Look for something easy to maintain, to clean, fits your customers, & some thought into "can I buy this again, should something get damaged or if I run short in January?"

As for the gable wall, I think you framed it correctly, the gable ends are the most prone to wind loads, being a large vertical face, so anchoring each stud top to bottom is probably the best bet. you can always fill in with cross blocking to support the outside panels.

 

[rick1ryan]

I wanted to give an update on my project, and (of course) ask for advice on how to attach a lean to. To recap, I'm building a wedding venue and had a company do a basic pole barn structure; 6X6 posts and galvalume roof, then put down concrete. This is a 90'X40'X10' structure. I then used T1-11 for the exterior, attached to 2X6s between each post. Had a painter to acid stain the floors and stain the exterior. We just finished insulating and I put sanded plywood on the interior walls and painted white, 1 coat (so the grain shows thru). The final part of this project is a 48'X14' lean to. This will house M/F bathrooms, along with bride/groom suites on either side of the bathrooms. First, let me post a couple of pics.


Now for the lean to. I've installed septic and plumbed the bathrooms (contracted). Yesterday, concrete was poured and this weekend I'll be studding in the walls. Once it's closed in, my plumber will finish plumbing and install fixtures. Water tap is already installed. Here's a pic:


The outside of the wall will be 8ft and I need it to butt up against the upper roofline with an overlap and seal to keep water out. I'm not confident about attaching the rafters to the 2X6 purlin so I'm thinking to remove the purlin, then attach a header to the building and anchor directly to that purlin. I'll then slide each galvalume piece under the upper piece, then screw into a 2X4 from both the upper and lower pieces of galvalume. Finish off by sealing the joint from the top and perhaps foam inside (minimal expanding). The bathrooms are in the center with bride & groom suites on either side (bride's side is bigger). Any suggestions?

 

[rick1ryan]

BTW, for whatever it's worth, I did install cross braces on every corner of the building. I believe that suggestion was mentioned in this thread. Thanks for whoever gave the advice.

 

[EddieWalker]

I would attach my rafters to the sides of your rafter tails and have the rafters resting on top of a purlin or beam. Ideally, the slope of the metal would remain the same, but if you need to change the slope to keep the 8 foot wall height, you will need flashing that goes under the existing metal and over the new metal.