Upgrading from BX to B

[nmk61802]

I have a 2002-2003 BX1800 with an LA211 and a Woods BH6000. I live just outside of a 40,000 person city and own a 3/4-1 acre lot. I really like the BX for it's size, and when I purchased it the intent was to utilize it for mowing, snowplowing and general construction and maintenance type tasks.

Eventually I added a commercial zero-turn to my equipment and find that the BX only serves as a back-up mower when that one is down for maintenance (rarely). I am at a point where I am considering the purchase of a larger B series. I have found that I consistently hit the hydraulic relief on the BX trying to move materials or debris. I have used it to move busted up concrete during sidewalk replacement, log moving during tree removal, material movement during garage construction, unloading semi's, unloading equipment off of trailers. Each time I have needed to revise my plan to stay under the BX's lift capacity, sometimes just abandoning my plan and renting equipment, or using a shop crane.

If I could easily increase the lift capacity of the BX I would keep it, but merely increase the hydraulic pressure will not be enough for my uses. I would like to have around 1000#'s of lift or more in a compact size.

I have also never been happy with the snow plowing properties of the BX. I have the Kubota manual blade and plow about 300 ft of drive and have issues with the snow shoving the BX sideways and or lifting the front. Many times I have just abandoned the blade a switched to the LA211 to move the snow. Here again I have hit the limiter if it is wet or hard packed at the entrance from county plows.

I am strongly considering a used 26-30hp B with a FL402 or 504. I would also plan on moving my BH6000 to the new/used tractor. I think with this plan and the sale of my BX I could accomplish this for a small expenditure.

I am looking for some input on this plan and the size of tractor for my small lot. I am concerned that I am considering more tractor than my lot really needs? I know this is a loaded question, and on here is like the junkie asking the dealer if they need more. I have seen a lot on here make this move and hope to get some good feed back.

 

[jeff9366]

The BX has a Category I LIMITED Three Point Hitch, or some do, so the frames have different dimensions. Before implementing your plan, contact Woods and determine which larger Kubotas the BH6000 will fit.

You may have seen this:

I suggest an L2501/HST if that fits in the budget. It has a 100.4 cubic inch engine, generating 25-horsepower. This is a larger displacement engine, generating more torque in a wider range than the 'B's and does not have the complex Tier IV emission controls of tractors +26-horsepower. At 2,623 pounds, bare tractor, it will be more stable than the others when you lift logs with the FEL.

As you probably know, having the dealer fill the rear tires 3/4 with liquid lowers the center of gravity of the tractor, also improving stability on hills.

If you are really concerned about stability, wheel spacers are available for about $300 which will increase the width 4". Four inches makes a considerable difference. (However, starting with a wider L2501, rather than a narrower 'B' should be your first decision.)
LINK: Bro-Tek

The L2501 is 55" wide with R1/ag tires, probably 59" wide with R4/industrial tires. I suggest you buy a stick of 1-1/4" diameter, Schedule 40 PVC pipe, then cut it to 59". Walk around your work area, storage area, woodland and gates and see if L2501 59" width "fits". Operationally, you will adapt to this size tractor in about eight hours.

You will certainly want an FEL (front end loader), which works best with 4-WD and R4/industrial tires, which support the weight of a filled loader, being wider and of 6-ply construction.

For your woods work and road work I suggest a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment, about my favorite tractor tool. Nothing better for tearing out brush, great for prizing out imbedded rocks, light grading and moving small amounts of dirt; pretty good in the garden.
VIDEO: RATCHET RAKE - YouTube




Or this:

L2501 omits the mid-PTO so you cannot operate a Mid Mount Mower, you have to mount some form of Three Point Hitch mower. Those who do woods work prefer not to have vulnerable, forward-facing mid-PTO.

L2501 is supposed to operate a 60" Rotary Mower. I speculate that grass should not be too long (perhaps 30" max) and the blades kept sharp to provide a quality cut with 25-horsepower.

Allowing for a 6" overlap, a 48" Rotary Mower cuts a 42" swathe.
Allowing for a 6" overlap, a 60" Rotary Mower cuts a 54" swathe; 28% increase.

To mow longer grass consider a L3301. Same tractor as L2501, one increment more powerful engine.

Tractors with 12" to 14" ground clearance will provide a less violent ride over pasture, relative to BX size tractors with 9" ground clearance. The larger wheels/tires bridge more holes and ruts.


B2650 26-horsepower from 77 cubic inch engine, 1,786 pounds bare tractor.

L2501 25-horsepower from 100 cubic inch engine, 2,623 pounds bare tractor. A significantly more capable machine.

Not much difference in price.




I spreadsheet data on tractors I consider purchasing.


These are residential tractors. Most operators adapt to the size within an hour.

 

[nmk61802]

The BX has a Category I LIMITED Three Point Hitch, or some do, so the frames have different dimensions. Before implementing your plan, contact Woods and determine which larger Kubotas the BH6000 will fit.

Yes I have already contacted Woods for a list of the B's that they manufacture a BH6000 frame for. Still waiting on that reply.

 

[robertm]

I have BX2670 now, and have had 3 B's and another BX in the last 15 years. I traded to B2620 from a BX2660 a few years ago because of the constant relief valve releasing when doing loader work. But, the B tore up my yard when turning due to the front-end steering geometry. Not one person will convince me the BX is a poor mower at best. I have dialed my current BX2670 in with the 60" MMM, and my lawn looks like a carpet. My past B' never delivered the same results. Okay, but not stellar.
I am 6'-5" and 250#. I despise feeling like I am on a matchbox tractor with the BX. I do agree, the front FEL blade is useless with the BX as it pushes the BX all over, but if you look at the B's, you are barely increasing weight, and wheelbase.
I think you may be expecting a major jump going to a B, but after doing the B to BX trade twice, its my educated opinion, that you will experience less of an improvement than you think.
Now, I can really throw you off... I am considering either a new BX2680, or a B2601 next round. I use my rig to primarily mow and remove snow. I use the loader with forks about every weekend in the summer and fall, but I don't feel as planted when lifting close to capacity, and I've been at close to 900# several times, and over with large blue spruce logs. Again, I feel like a bear on a tryke.
I don't know if I'd get the FEL blade again. I have a brand new rear Kubota blower I bought three years ago, and it's seen snow REALLY only once. live in the Midwest, too. I am thinking of selling the tractor, mower, FEL, forks, front blade, and blower, and starting over with a B, the light duty 60" bucket with the FEL, a MMM, and rear blade. All my stuff sits inside waxed, and frankly, I'm about done storing the blower and FEL blade if I never use them.
Good luck in your search and decision. If you step up to a B2650, then you'll see some improvements, but you need to go to the far end of the B's.

 

[radioman]

have you checked your hydro pressure yet?i'd get a gauge and check your readings. many bx's comes a little anemic from the factory and needs to increase the relief kick in. you will need shims too to bump the pressure up

 

[Jeff F.]

I went from a BX2660 to a B3200. The BX did a better job mowing (mmm) and blowing snow(front mount). The B initially felt more unstable but I've gotten used to it. The B (loaded tires) does more lawn damage. Both have turf tires. The B excels in maintaining my trails and loader work.

I will look forward to when I purchase a different dedicated mower. I will just need to put up with the snow removal.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

The BX has a Category I LIMITED Three Point Hitch, or some do, so the frames have different dimensions. Before implementing your plan, contact Woods and determine which larger Kubotas the BH6000 will fit.

You may have seen this:

I suggest an L2501/HST if that fits in the budget. It has a 100.4 cubic inch engine, generating 25-horsepower. This is a larger displacement engine, generating more torque in a wider range than the 'B's and does not have the complex Tier IV emission controls of tractors +26-horsepower. At 2,623 pounds, bare tractor, it will be more stable than the others when you lift logs with the FEL.

As you probably know, having the dealer fill the rear tires 3/4 with liquid lowers the center of gravity of the tractor, also improving stability on hills.

If you are really concerned about stability, wheel spacers are available for about $300 which will increase the width 4". Four inches makes a considerable difference. (However, starting with a wider L2501, rather than a narrower 'B' should be your first decision.)
LINK: Bro-Tek

The L2501 is 55" wide with R1/ag tires, probably 59" wide with R4/industrial tires. I suggest you buy a stick of 1-1/4" diameter, Schedule 40 PVC pipe, then cut it to 59". Walk around your work area, storage area, woodland and gates and see if L2501 59" width "fits". Operationally, you will adapt to this size tractor in about eight hours.

You will certainly want an FEL (front end loader), which works best with 4-WD and R4/industrial tires, which support the weight of a filled loader, being wider and of 6-ply construction.

For your woods work and road work I suggest a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment, about my favorite tractor tool. Nothing better for tearing out brush, great for prizing out imbedded rocks, light grading and moving small amounts of dirt; pretty good in the garden.
VIDEO: RATCHET RAKE - YouTube




Or this:

L2501 omits the mid-PTO so you cannot operate a Mid Mount Mower, you have to mount some form of Three Point Hitch mower. Those who do woods work prefer not to have vulnerable, forward-facing mid-PTO.

L2501 is supposed to operate a 60" Rotary Mower. I speculate that grass should not be too long (perhaps 30" max) and the blades kept sharp to provide a quality cut with 25-horsepower.

Allowing for a 6" overlap, a 48" Rotary Mower cuts a 42" swathe.
Allowing for a 6" overlap, a 60" Rotary Mower cuts a 54" swathe; 28% increase.

To mow longer grass consider a L3301. Same tractor as L2501, one increment more powerful engine.

Tractors with 12" to 14" ground clearance will provide a less violent ride over pasture, relative to BX size tractors with 9" ground clearance. The larger wheels/tires bridge more holes and ruts.


B2650 26-horsepower from 77 cubic inch engine, 1,786 pounds bare tractor.

L2501 25-horsepower from 100 cubic inch engine, 2,623 pounds bare tractor. A significantly more capable machine.

Not much difference in price.




I spreadsheet data on tractors I consider purchasing.


These are residential tractors. Most operators adapt to the size within an hour.

I have BX2670 now, and have had 3 B's and another BX in the last 15 years. I traded to B2620 from a BX2660 a few years ago because of the constant relief valve releasing when doing loader work. But, the B tore up my yard when turning due to the front-end steering geometry. Not one person will convince me the BX is a poor mower at best. I have dialed my current BX2670 in with the 60" MMM, and my lawn looks like a carpet. My past B' never delivered the same results. Okay, but not stellar.
I am 6'-5" and 250#. I despise feeling like I am on a matchbox tractor with the BX. I do agree, the front FEL blade is useless with the BX as it pushes the BX all over, but if you look at the B's, you are barely increasing weight, and wheelbase.
I think you may be expecting a major jump going to a B, but after doing the B to BX trade twice, its my educated opinion, that you will experience less of an improvement than you think.
Now, I can really throw you off... I am considering either a new BX2680, or a B2601 next round. I use my rig to primarily mow and remove snow. I use the loader with forks about every weekend in the summer and fall, but I don't feel as planted when lifting close to capacity, and I've been at close to 900# several times, and over with large blue spruce logs. Again, I feel like a bear on a tryke.
I don't know if I'd get the FEL blade again. I have a brand new rear Kubota blower I bought three years ago, and it's seen snow REALLY only once. live in the Midwest, too. I am thinking of selling the tractor, mower, FEL, forks, front blade, and blower, and starting over with a B, the light duty 60" bucket with the FEL, a MMM, and rear blade. All my stuff sits inside waxed, and frankly, I'm about done storing the blower and FEL blade if I never use them.
Good luck in your search and decision. If you step up to a B2650, then you'll see some improvements, but you need to go to the far end of the B's.

Agree with these two which seem different but not really. Little different approach/expressions of close to the issues. I've done several BXs to Bs to BXs to Bs and some Ls. Weight is important for traction and usually lifting ability if so equiped. I bought a B2650 and shortly after doing so my nephew bought a L2501/2601? and I think for less money but more weight and lift but less "deluxe" features. I sort of regretted not looking at the Ls at that time and later bought a L3901 when I bought an additional 30 acres.
These Bs and Ls will seem big for your size land but it's the jobs and not land size that should be the determining factor. Good luck with your decision.:thumbsup:

 

[nmk61802]

have you checked your hydro pressure yet?i'd get a gauge and check your readings. many bx's comes a little anemic from the factory and needs to increase the relief kick in. you will need shims too to bump the pressure up

Thanks, Yes the pressure was low. I shimmed to 2000psi when I installed the BH6000 (thanks BXExpanded for a nice kit) . At best the LA211 is rated to around 450#, less than half of my desired capacity. Just not seeing an easy way to get to 1000# lift with my current equipment.

 

[Grandad4]

Thanks, Yes the pressure was low. I shimmed to 2000psi when I installed the BH6000 (thanks BXExpanded for a nice kit) . At best the LA211 is rated to around 450#, less than half of my desired capacity. Just not seeing an easy way to get to 1000# lift with my current equipment.

1,000 lbs is more than I would want to lift with the FEL of my BX, both for front axle capacity and safety reasons. Definitely that puts you in larger 'B' or 'L' size equipment.

 

[bcp]

I've always thought of the small B's as sort of a high crop BX.

Besides just static lifting ability, consider how it would handle on rough or sloping ground with 1000lbs+ on it.

Bruce

 

[mike69440]

I have a 2002-2003 BX1800 with an LA211 and a Woods BH6000. I live just outside of a 40,000 person city and own a 3/4-1 acre lot. I really like the BX for it's size, and when I purchased it the intent was to utilize it for mowing, snowplowing and general construction and maintenance type tasks.

Eventually I added a commercial zero-turn to my equipment and find that the BX only serves as a back-up mower when that one is down for maintenance (rarely). I am at a point where I am considering the purchase of a larger B series. I have found that I consistently hit the hydraulic relief on the BX trying to move materials or debris. I have used it to move busted up concrete during sidewalk replacement, log moving during tree removal, material movement during garage construction, unloading semi's, unloading equipment off of trailers. Each time I have needed to revise my plan to stay under the BX's lift capacity, sometimes just abandoning my plan and renting equipment, or using a shop crane.

If I could easily increase the lift capacity of the BX I would keep it, but merely increase the hydraulic pressure will not be enough for my uses. I would like to have around 1000#'s of lift or more in a compact size.

I have also never been happy with the snow plowing properties of the BX. I have the Kubota manual blade and plow about 300 ft of drive and have issues with the snow shoving the BX sideways and or lifting the front. Many times I have just abandoned the blade a switched to the LA211 to move the snow. Here again I have hit the limiter if it is wet or hard packed at the entrance from county plows.

I am strongly considering a used 26-30hp B with a FL402 or 504. I would also plan on moving my BH6000 to the new/used tractor. I think with this plan and the sale of my BX I could accomplish this for a small expenditure.

I am looking for some input on this plan and the size of tractor for my small lot. I am concerned that I am considering more tractor than my lot really needs? I know this is a loaded question, and on here is like the junkie asking the dealer if they need more. I have seen a lot on here make this move and hope to get some good feed back.

3/4 Acre is a small lot. If you plan on staying put, I would recommend you not go up to a small L frame tractor or even a B2650 etc. B2650 is a nice tractor if the size suits you but seems big to me on 3/4 Acres.

Just take a look and a Mahindra Max 24 It will lift as much as a B Series, but is a giant size Sub Compact vs a small Compact. Turns tight and is made by Mitsubishi for Mahindra. Decent, but still not Kubota Quality. Price is a bit lower than a Kubota in most parts of USA.

 

[robertm]

I agree, a B on 3/4 acre is overkill. The lifting capacity of a BX using forks from Jery Dunn will come close to a stock B. Close to 1,000#. The quality of a B mowing will not compare to a BX. The maneuverability of the BX without tearing up the grass, will let you know a BX is the right choice. I have double the yard, and all three of my B's gouged circles around my landscaping and trees while mowing.

 

[mile9c1]

I have double the yard, and all three of my B's gouged circles around my landscaping and trees while mowing.

Turf tires or industrial tires?

 

[robertm]

Turf tires or industrial tires?

Turf. And, BOTH types of available turfs. I have had three B's. It's the geometry of the front end. The top of the outer front wheel tips out on turns, so the edge of the tire cuts sod like a knife. It didn't matter what I did to try and alleviate the problem. Two wheel drive, or four (hey, had to try it). Slow. Fast. Wet. Dry. No loader. No matter.

I finally did three point turns to help a little. I LOVE the B's. I really prefer them just because of my size, but they destroy my yard. I keep thinking I'll go back to one next spring, but I need to decide if I have a yard... or a lawn.

 

[mike69440]

Turf. And, BOTH types of available turfs. I have had three B's. It's the geometry of the front end. The top of the outer front wheel tips out on turns, so the edge of the tire cuts sod like a knife. It didn't matter what I did to try and alleviate the problem. Two wheel drive, or four (hey, had to try it). Slow. Fast. Wet. Dry. No loader. No matter.

I finally did three point turns to help a little. I LOVE the B's. I really prefer them just because of my size, but they destroy my yard. I keep thinking I'll go back to one next spring, but I need to decide if I have a yard... or a lawn.

My heavily ballasted Max28 (+3,000 lbs) with R4's is surprisingly gentle on our front yard if the ground is somewhat dry. The RTV is good also. Steering does not dig in in 2WD and has excellent turn radius. My wife does not want the L39 on the lawn, and the excavator only by special permission if not other option.
I wonder why the B series is rough on lawns?

 

[robstaples]

I moved from a 20 hp Simplicity Sunstar similar to BX to a B3350 cause I wanted 4wd ( cut on a slope) and a cab. I have the 60 inch deck and rear pto vac grass catcher. I have the 554(?)loader which I have to keep off when I cut grass. Even with the bucket off. The front end would plow in on turns. The B cuts well but its weight works against it. I don't cut when it's damp. I have to use 4fwd on my slope or the grass shows slide marks. I don't have full-sun-all-day grass so it's "softer" grass. Overkill? Maybe. I have 1.8 acres and only cut .3 ish. I cut yesterday in 20 minutes. And I'm keeping my L39tlb for its lift capacity. ~2800 lbs . The l39 will leave grass marks after 1- 3 passes. But they grow out.

 

[mile9c1]

Turf. And, BOTH types of available turfs. I have had three B's.

Is the B2301/2601 steering different than the larger B's?

 

[robertm]

Is the B2301/2601 steering different than the larger B's?

I'm sure the B2301 and B2601 are identical to the earlier B2320 and B2620. Also same as the B7500/7510/7600/7610.
The B3300 is a longer and larger frame. While the geometry of the steering may be the same, I doubt the components are identical. The B2650, on the other hand, is a much different, longer, wider, and substantially heavier beast than the B2620, and similar.

 

[nmk61802]

I agree, a B on 3/4 acre is overkill. The lifting capacity of a BX using forks from Jery Dunn will come close to a stock B. Close to 1,000#. The quality of a B mowing will not compare to a BX. The maneuverability of the BX without tearing up the grass, will let you know a BX is the right choice. I have double the yard, and all three of my B's gouged circles around my landscaping and trees while mowing.

How do you get 1000# lift from a LA211? It is rated @ 450# at the pin. I have have the Jery Dunn forks, and no way I could lift close to 1000# with the FEL, 350-400# is about the max. 3-point lift is not an option, it does not have enough height and as mentioned I have a backhoe installed.

Mowing is not a concern either, as mentioned I now have a dedicated Zero Turn. If I mow with it it will be few and far between now.

I currently use my BX for lifting, pulling, digging, and plowing. I don't disagree that the B is large for my lot, but find the BX1800 lacking in power for the work I am currently using it for.

 

[robertm]

How do you get 1000# lift from a LA211? It is rated @ 450# at the pin. I have have the Jery Dunn forks, and no way I could lift close to 1000# with the FEL, 350-400# is about the max. 3-point lift is not an option, it does not have enough height and as mentioned I have a backhoe installed.

Mowing is not a concern either, as mentioned I now have a dedicated Zero Turn. If I mow with it it will be few and far between now.

I currently use my BX for lifting, pulling, digging, and plowing. I don't disagree that the B is large for my lot, but find the BX1800 lacking in power for the work I am currently using it for.

I have a BX2670 with a LA243. I just took a full 55 gallon drum of diesel out of my truck on a hardwood pallet. That's over 500# alone... NOT at the pins. I measured over 800# on a pallet in landscape blocks, with a HD oak pallet from an 85hp vertical turbine pump that weighed probably 75#. That's over 875# on the forks. Granted, it won't go full height, but at least 50%. I wouldn't want to go full height.
In early June, I lifted a 12 foot long blue spruce log. I am serious, that it measured 22" in diameter at one end, and 16" at the other. On line says it is about 1,150# I know that shouldn't be possible, but I held the trunk in a felled position, lifted it, the guy cut it off, I drove to the truck with it 30" off the ground, lifted it to about 60" and it wouldn't go anymore.
I doubt that you'd have any issues with the BX in a 2380 or 2680 size. To me, the baby BX is a glorified lawn mower.