Upgrading John Deere Loader Cylinders

[arkvet]

The outside 2" cylinders are too wide to fit into the loader frame. You might have noticed that I welded on extensions that were small enough to fit. I mention it somewhere in the videos.

The cylinders I found have a tang base end. From the picture I believe I should be able to simply weld on the cross-tube to the end with the hydraulic fitting at the 3 o'clock position (towards the hood of the tractor). If the tang end is too wide it should be amendable to trim a little.

 

[bbbmgo]

Arkvet,

Any update on how the upgraded cylinder installation went with the cylinders you talked about using? Mine (Bucket side) just broke so I'm due for an upgrade. Also, do you remember what part number you used?

 

[arkvet]

I don't have a part # for you but have used the tractor / loader many many hours since the repair and the new cylinders have been flawless. The slightly larger diameter cylinder makes the speed slightly slower but it's negligible. In return, though, are bucket cylinders tougher than the loader.

It's been so long I don't even remember the specs.

 

[bbbmgo]

Thanks for the reply. I looked up the numbers from what you posted and think I found the cylinder you were referencing (2x17x1.25 DA Hydraulic cylinder item number: 9-7913). You made it sound like it was a direct fit (minus welding the cross tube), is that what you found, or did you have fabricate some (like Mars1952 did)? I'm just hesitant because this is going to be new territory for me. Thanks again.

 

[arkvet]

I had to fabricate both ends. I simply used a chop saw to cut the ends off to make the length appropiate. You just have to match either he extended OR the retracted length and the power stroke must be the same. Those are the important items. Don't worry too much about the hose fitting type. I don't remember what JD uses but I think it's not that common so you're pretty much wasting your time to look for a match their. Once you get the cylinders built you can have a local shop make the hose with whatever connectors you need. The hoses I had made were beefier than the OEM by a mile.

If the cylinder diameter and power stroke are good then you're most of the way there.

I know JD cylinders are expensive but they are plug and play. I took the fabrication route because i had the tools to do it and I believe I ended up with better (stronger) than OEM cylinders.

I use a set of pallet forks and also carry hay bales with my loader. The slightly bigger cylinder helps with that a lot!

 

[TractorGuy]

Digging this old thread up again.

I have a 420 loader I want to do something similar to but I would like to search and see if I can find some 2" cylinders that require less fabrication. I can do the fabrication outlined but I would rather not.

Does anybody have the factory cylinder extended and retracted length dimensions? My bucket curl cylinders are missing so those measurements are most important to me.

 

[Zebrafive]

Since you have the loader, it should be easy to mock up extended and retracted lengths for the bucket cylinders.

 

[TractorGuy]

Since you have the loader, it should be easy to mock up extended and retracted lengths for the bucket cylinders.

Oh cmon! Let me be lazy!

Looks to me like the retracted length for the lift should be around 26". I don't see any reason to have to limit the stroke as long as the retracted length is correct. You can limit how far you lift or with the control. Bucket cylinders need to be no sorter than 29" retracted.

Being I will have to customize the hoses there is no reason I can't connect the bucket hoses on top and the lift hoses on bottom. No need to have them on the side.

On the lift the 2" bore, 18" stroke, Wolverine WWXT2018-S cylinder might just work almost as a plug and play. I would have to trim an 1/8" off each side of the base end cross tube. Would be worth $120 each all day long not to have to do all that cutting, fitting, and welding. these may work on all 4 if you are careful not to curl the bucket past the stop.