Use for draw bar?

[Soundguy]

. I have always considered a tractor not to be strong enough to destroy it's drawbar hookup
.

Then you simply havn't run one long or hard enough. It's the jerking that gets them.. not the steady rolling loads..

Can't tell you how many broken center and diffy housing I've seen over the years from 'snatch pulling'.

can, does and will happen.

there are threads in the archives here of broken diffy housings..

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Yeah for curly.

Ps I is a enginerd too.

Does a civil count..? If so.. me too.

soundguy

 

[SPYDERLK]

You should attach to the end of the drawbar for hard pulls, not to the drawbar holder.

There is a lot of misinformation on the internet in general and on this thread in particular.

The reason for using the drawbar is that it is engineered so that if the front wheels come up and the tractor starts to overturn backwards, the back end of the drawbar lowers to the ground as the front comes up. This automatically reduces the overturning torque to zero and the tractor will not turn over. This feature allows the operator time to disengage the clutch, release the HST pedal, or let off the throttle.

Couldve used you on this thread...starting about #53.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/buying-pricing-comparisons/146173-why-4-wheel-drive-2.html

 

[tessiers]

A tractor is made for pulling from the drawbar. It does not however have a brain. I can break anything you give me if I want too. The safest pull point is on the front of the tractor, My Ford NAA and Farmall H both have front pull points. Todays compact tractors, which most of us, myself included, use every day, are not designed for the same uses as tractors of the past. We should all keep that in mind.