Used cost?

[chim]

Buying new is something I haven't even considered. It might actually make more sense. After 5 years or so resale would be much higher. Tractors tend to hold their value. I probably wouldn't pay much more new than I would buying used not to mention the advantage of the new tractor warranty.

The last two tractors I bought have been smaller than what it sounds would work for you, but I believe the process is similar. I searched for a good deal on a used unit both times. Both times I found that a really clean tractor with low hours wasn't priced that much lower than the cash deal on a new one. It is comforting to know there's a warranty during the honeymoon even if you never need it.

 

[motownbrowne]

I'm just looking for the loader attachment with the tractor. That will serve my needs. I have a bushhog and york rake for it. I will need to install my western 8"6" plow to it. That will be another topic when I get the tractor.
What I'm trying to get straight in my head right now is what will be the price difference in buying a new vs. used 30-40 hp tractor.

I just got done tractor shopping. I never buy anything new cause I figure if I buy something gently used and then gently use it myself, it'll still be worth what I paid for it.

However, in my tractor shopping experience it didn't really look that way. It seemed like everything for sale that was less than 10 years old was selling for 10-15% less than the cost of the unit brand new. And, with no warranty, usually with industrial tires, usually a few hours away. I just bit the bullet and bought a new machine. I got what could be considered a pretty "basic" machine and saved a lot versus the Grand L Kubotas and am very happy with my purchase.

I'll keep buying used trucks, but I sure won't pay 85% of new for a used tractor. Although, on the flip side, it's nice to know mine will be worth that if I sell it.

Another note, Now is a good time to buy a new machine, final tier IV machines are taking the place of the tier 3 and interim tier IV machines. I'm sure they'll prove to be just fine, but they will cost more to buy and to maintain.

Good luck.

 

[chuck172]

"Another note, Now is a good time to buy a new machine, final tier IV machines are taking the place of the tier 3 and interim tier IV machines. I'm sure they'll prove to be just fine, but they will cost more to buy and to maintain."
You lost me here, would you please explain?

 

[motownbrowne]

The tiers refer to emissions standards. The 2014 models (I believe) are going to a higher standard, which in some cases involves a diesel particulate filter (DPF) which needs to be replaced at something like 3000 hours (it's not cheap). It depends model to model, manufacturer to manufacturer, and differs depending on what horsepower you're looking at too. Search on here for tier IV and there's a ton of info. Like I said, I'm sure they will be great machines, but they will be more costly.

 

[downslope]

If you're in northeast PA I would suggest you subscribe to Lancaster Farming newspaper, at least for one year Lancaster Farming: The Mid-Atlantic's Source for Farming News and Equipment . You'll see plenty of auctions, dealer ads and classifieds. And as a subscriber you can search all these ads online as well as the free Mailbox Market classifieds. You can start searching as soon as the paper comes out on SAT and won't have to wait for the mail the following week.

You have to decide if you want a CUT tractor or a full size utility. From your needs it seems like you can get by with a medium/large size 4WD CUT. How many hours do you figure you'll put on the tractor each year?

For your snow work you want to have the 4WD and as long as you're only woodlotting the 33 acres and not farming it the CUT will do the job, assuming you don't have the need to adjust the front thread width. Just be sure the loader has the capacity you're looking for.

I would definitely check out new prices and compare to what's available used. I don't know where you're at in NE PA, a designation people seem to use to encompass a wide area, but there are some recommended dealers like Messick in Lancaster County, Wallace and F&S Supply in in Lackawanna County.

Snowplow 800' shale driveway
Log out up to 10 cords of firewood a year
York rake and grade driveway
bush hog a 2 acre field
This is what I've been using:
ford 8n with grade blade, york rake, and bush hog
ford 4500 TLB
1989 ford f250 pu with snow plow
The pu is rotting out and unreliable, 8n just doesn't cut it, tlb is old and getting expensive to maintain, can't plow with it.
I'd like to keep the price below 15,000
I hope you guys can help me out with some more suggestions.
I live in N.E Pa. we do get quite a bit of snow. I have 33 acres, I'm 62 years old, with no help. woodlot mgt. chickens, sometimes pigs etc.

 

[chuck172]

Marshells is close to me. I'll be seeing them soon. I'm hedging towards buying new this spring. I like what Mowtown says "I'll keep buying used trucks, but I sure won't pay 85% of new for a used tractor. Although, on the flip side, it's nice to know mine will be worth that if I sell it."

 

[GManBart]

"Another note, Now is a good time to buy a new machine, final tier IV machines are taking the place of the tier 3 and interim tier IV machines. I'm sure they'll prove to be just fine, but they will cost more to buy and to maintain."
You lost me here, would you please explain?

Emissions laws for tractors have become increasing more strict, through a series of Tiers. Generally speaking, the last Tier III machines were made in 2013. Some manufacturers had "Interim Tier IV" machines in the last year or so, and now all the new machines need to be Tier IV compliant. Essentially, the Tier IV machines need to be "cleaner", and that typically requires more complex systems such as particulate filters....many of which require electronics, or computer controls to work properly. So, you've got machines with extra stuff on them, most of which is new, and it's all subject to wear, damage, etc, but nobody really knows how robust those systems are going to be just yet. Vibration and dust aren't friendly to computer circuit boards, but we're hanging them on tractors now....more expensive to buy, and probably more expensive to maintain.

Short version: If you're looking at a new tractor, and you have the option of a 2013 Tier III model, or a 2014 Tier IV model, it's probably a smart idea to get the Tier III machine assuming they haven't made other significant changes that might be to your benefit.

 

[downslope]

Marshells is close to me. I'll be seeing them soon. I'm hedging towards buying new this spring. I like what Mowtown says "I'll keep buying used trucks, but I sure won't pay 85% of new for a used tractor. Although, on the flip side, it's nice to know mine will be worth that if I sell it."

Good luck in your shopping. The only thing I would say is it might be difficult to equal the loader capacity of your Ford TLB in a new fwd tractor for $15K.

You will want to have loaded tires plus some more weight on back. I have had the rear of my New Holland with 820TL loader lift off the ground and they are 16.9x30 tires with 750 lbs of calcium chloride solution in each.

 

[George2615]

I'm just looking for the loader attachment with the tractor. That will serve my needs. I have a bushhog and york rake for it. I will need to install my western 8"6" plow to it. That will be another topic when I get the tractor.
What I'm trying to get straight in my head right now is what will be the price difference in buying a new vs. used 30-40 hp tractor.

Chuck,
Price difference you quoted is about right for used 30HP tractor. Generally about 5-6K less than new. May be less than that if its a newer tractor with low hours. It would be tough for someone trying to sell a 1-2 year old tractor for near new price. Most people would rather buy new instead of only saving 1-2k on used. Used prices can vary and depend on age, hours, condition, maintenance etc. Good luck with your decision.