Rotary Cutter Using a new rotary cutter
- Thread starter pooters
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Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
If you only have draft control.. you will need to adjust the lift often. Otherwise i will assume position control.
Hook mower to lower lift arms. lift the lift so thatthe front of the mower is at the height you like to mow at. Mark your 3pt lift quad.. or if it has a set screw, mark it there. Now, adjust tail wheel so that the rear of the mower is just slightly higher than the front of the deck.. probably 1/2 inch or less, per foot of cut.. so ideally about 1.5 inch or so is a good place to try.
Now adjust and attach toplink. Most units have some slack int he toplink connection point, like a "U" shaped piece of metal that will swing a little.. or a slot the pin rides in. these sereve to gine a little play to allow for uneven terain. Adjsut your toplink so that while on level ground, it is int he middle of the range of motion available.
That's a basic but decent setup plan...You should be goood to go for a trial run, and then make and adjustments as needed.
Soundguy
Hook mower to lower lift arms. lift the lift so thatthe front of the mower is at the height you like to mow at. Mark your 3pt lift quad.. or if it has a set screw, mark it there. Now, adjust tail wheel so that the rear of the mower is just slightly higher than the front of the deck.. probably 1/2 inch or less, per foot of cut.. so ideally about 1.5 inch or so is a good place to try.
Now adjust and attach toplink. Most units have some slack int he toplink connection point, like a "U" shaped piece of metal that will swing a little.. or a slot the pin rides in. these sereve to gine a little play to allow for uneven terain. Adjsut your toplink so that while on level ground, it is int he middle of the range of motion available.
That's a basic but decent setup plan...You should be goood to go for a trial run, and then make and adjustments as needed.
Soundguy
pooters said:
firemanpat2910
Platinum Member
try # 2:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66587
WOW I did it !!!!!!!!!! Im not as think as you dumb I am
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66587
WOW I did it !!!!!!!!!! Im not as think as you dumb I am
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
That got a pretty good snort from me. I like that.. funny..
Soundguy
Soundguy
RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,901
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
What you're experiencing is normal. When the rear wheels drop into a slight depression, the cutter will cut shorter. When the rear wheels raise over a slight hump, the cutter will cut taller. Only way to avoid this would be to mount at least one outboard guide wheel onto the cutter body. I've thought about doing this, as I have a very heavy duty castor wheel that's adjustable for height and can even be swung up out of the way. However, it would stick out to one side. I'd have to watch in not going too close on that side to trees and such.
Others talked about using an adjustable slide on your top link. My LX4 cutter has this. It doesn't stop the uneven cutting due to the rear tires going over rises or into dips. Think the only way this would even things out would be to adjust the rear of the cutter to cut lower than the front. This generally isn't recommended because it takes a bit more hp because you're cutting the grass (going forward anyway) several times.
Ralph
Others talked about using an adjustable slide on your top link. My LX4 cutter has this. It doesn't stop the uneven cutting due to the rear tires going over rises or into dips. Think the only way this would even things out would be to adjust the rear of the cutter to cut lower than the front. This generally isn't recommended because it takes a bit more hp because you're cutting the grass (going forward anyway) several times.
Ralph
Only way to avoid this would be to mount at least one outboard guide wheel onto the cutter body. I've thought about doing this, as I have a very heavy duty castor wheel that's adjustable for height and can even be swung up out of the way. However, it would stick out to one side. I'd have to watch in not going too close on that side to trees and such.
I like the idea of mounting adjustable wheels on the sides of the cutter. If I understand you correctly, that would allow the cutter to follow the terrain more naturally. But, it sounds like you would end up towing the cutter rather than carrying it with the 3pt hitch.
I like the idea of mounting adjustable wheels on the sides of the cutter. If I understand you correctly, that would allow the cutter to follow the terrain more naturally. But, it sounds like you would end up towing the cutter rather than carrying it with the 3pt hitch.
firemanpat2910
Platinum Member
Glad to be of service, now fill in your profile and get some pictures posted.
The info in the profile lets everybody know what color your tractor is and what specific implements you have.
Happy Tractoring
The info in the profile lets everybody know what color your tractor is and what specific implements you have.
Happy Tractoring
