Traction Using a Tractor on Mountain Property

[vtsnowedin]

Now that is a cute little tractor! I like the wide, low stance!

Needs a ROPS.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Was just kidding you. I guess I meant all the little mods and tricks you used to make it all-terrain capable. Sounds like an ideal rig but out of my price range, probably even used.

I would not call them mods or tricks. Buying a tractor the right size to do your work is a choice, then choosing one with adjustable tread width is another as is the spacers and position you have the rims set at. Adding Rimguard to the rear tires is a safety decision and very prudent with a loader attached that some dealers insist on for their liability concerns.
As to the cost question I put $3000 down on it and went 60 months at zero percent.Payments are $446.20 and that included the cutter. The cutter maybe well worn when I get it all paid for but the tractor will probably be worth every penny I paid for it Five years later as I just rolled it past 400 hours yesterday.
But if that is too steep for you there are a lot of used tractors out there that have these same abilities so you can certainly find a tractor with 4WD ,a loader, adjustable rims and loaded tires or you can have them loaded anytime as well as add spacers if you want to go that far. It should be just a matter of finding one the right age and with reasonable hours on it to fit your budget.
What I would not buy is a narrow and high SCUT with fixed rims and an aluminum rear end housing that won't tolerate spacers, and that can't take having the tires loaded at the same time the backhoe is on the machine.
Have fun shopping and good luck finding the right machine for your needs. Keep your ROPS and hopes up.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

A backhoe is really not a necessary purchase for removing and moving dirt, save yourself $10,000! A front loader is 10 times more efficient when coupled with a box blade at moving earth.

Unless you plan on digging ditches don't waste your money at the beginning on a hoe. With the setup I just mentioned you "can move mountains". If you decide later that a back hoe is needed you can rent one for a weekend or borrow mine that sits about 90% of the time in the barn.

Yes, I've thought about that a lot. A lot of our soil is very, very hard packed clay--like cement unless it's just rained; then it's like wet soap--so I was questioning whether a FEL would be able to dig in. And then some of the areas where we want to improve the trail by evening out the grades to make it more tractor-friendly, it's very humpy, so can you really drive a FEL into that? And we do have at least 1,000 feet of ditches to maintain. And then when I get ready to run water supply to the garden and barn. And moving some small trees.... planting a lot of new fruit/nut trees....digging out the larger boulders we often come across...the dozens of durn stumps from all the half-dead spindly saplings we cut down. Maybe there's another way than a BH that I haven't thought of....

Yes, a box grader is the best thing since sliced bread. Even pulled behind the Huskvee (far from ideal!) it's been a big help.

 

[Xfaxman]

This is what 30 degrees of body lean looks like on the back of the dam, a 26.57 degree slope.

Serious pucker factor the first time I mowed it with the 6' deck.

 

[vtsnowedin]

This is what 30 degrees of body lean looks like on the back of the dam, a 26.57 degree slope.


Serious pucker factor the first time I mowed it with the 6' deck.

One thing about man made slopes is that they are uniform from top to bottom and all the way across the face. If you can start up from the bottom you can make it all the way to the top unless you hit a chuck hole. Out in the woods it is entirely random and you have to feel your way along and pick and poke at it until you find the best routes.

 

[jb1390]

Yes, I've thought about that a lot. A lot of our soil is very, very hard packed clay--like cement unless it's just rained; then it's like wet soap--so I was questioning whether a FEL would be able to dig in. And then some of the areas where we want to improve the trail by evening out the grades to make it more tractor-friendly, it's very humpy, so can you really drive a FEL into that? And we do have at least 1,000 feet of ditches to maintain. And then when I get ready to run water supply to the garden and barn. And moving some small trees.... planting a lot of new fruit/nut trees....digging out the larger boulders we often come across...the dozens of durn stumps from all the half-dead spindly saplings we cut down. Maybe there's another way than a BH that I haven't thought of....

Yes, a box grader is the best thing since sliced bread. Even pulled behind the Huskvee (far from ideal!) it's been a big help.

Box blade or loader won't deal with rocks......if you have any of those you want moved a backhoe will be a much better option.

As far as operating on hills, keeping the machine straight up and down hills will be much safer than going across sideways.

 

[vtsnowedin]

 

[JRobyn]

For hard clay soils and rocks (and roots) you will want to add a tooth bar to your FEL. A VERY worthwhile and relatively low-cost tool. In my experience, you really can't do any meaningful "digging" or even grading without one.

- Jay

 

[Creamer]

Good thing you had the Deere to help you with that one!

 

[blucoondawg]

"Ability" I think is subjective. You guys who have machines that can take down the side of a mountain in a few passes have one idea of ability; for folks like me who've been doing everything with a rake and shovel for years, even a small tractor is a BIG step up. Even if my backhoe can only take small scoops, if it doesn't involve using my back and a shovel, it's a good thing.

I don't have a machine that can move mountains, that is exactly my point, even as large as my tractor and backhoe is it doesn't have the weight and power of the tractor loader backhoe you find on a construction sight, it isn't even proportional, those machines are way heavier and stronger than any hoe attachment you will ever find for any farm tractor. With my machine I have to take smaller bites with the backhoe in tough ground and digging out stumps and breaking off the large root structure is doable but a chore. I have operated a smaller 30hp tractor with a 6ft bush hog hoe and it was obviously even weaker and lighter, going to a scut model would be lighter yet. Coyote machine's recommendation of the 40hp kioti would be a good match it's the same size as my 50 has a very substantial loader capability and a variety of backhoe subframes are available.