Traction Using a Tractor on Mountain Property

[vtsnowedin]

Now that is a cute little tractor! I like the wide, low stance!

Needs a ROPS.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Was just kidding you. I guess I meant all the little mods and tricks you used to make it all-terrain capable. Sounds like an ideal rig but out of my price range, probably even used.

I would not call them mods or tricks. Buying a tractor the right size to do your work is a choice, then choosing one with adjustable tread width is another as is the spacers and position you have the rims set at. Adding Rimguard to the rear tires is a safety decision and very prudent with a loader attached that some dealers insist on for their liability concerns.
As to the cost question I put $3000 down on it and went 60 months at zero percent.Payments are $446.20 and that included the cutter. The cutter maybe well worn when I get it all paid for but the tractor will probably be worth every penny I paid for it Five years later as I just rolled it past 400 hours yesterday.
But if that is too steep for you there are a lot of used tractors out there that have these same abilities so you can certainly find a tractor with 4WD ,a loader, adjustable rims and loaded tires or you can have them loaded anytime as well as add spacers if you want to go that far. It should be just a matter of finding one the right age and with reasonable hours on it to fit your budget.
What I would not buy is a narrow and high SCUT with fixed rims and an aluminum rear end housing that won't tolerate spacers, and that can't take having the tires loaded at the same time the backhoe is on the machine.
Have fun shopping and good luck finding the right machine for your needs. Keep your ROPS and hopes up.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

A backhoe is really not a necessary purchase for removing and moving dirt, save yourself $10,000! A front loader is 10 times more efficient when coupled with a box blade at moving earth.

Unless you plan on digging ditches don't waste your money at the beginning on a hoe. With the setup I just mentioned you "can move mountains". If you decide later that a back hoe is needed you can rent one for a weekend or borrow mine that sits about 90% of the time in the barn.

Yes, I've thought about that a lot. A lot of our soil is very, very hard packed clay--like cement unless it's just rained; then it's like wet soap--so I was questioning whether a FEL would be able to dig in. And then some of the areas where we want to improve the trail by evening out the grades to make it more tractor-friendly, it's very humpy, so can you really drive a FEL into that? And we do have at least 1,000 feet of ditches to maintain. And then when I get ready to run water supply to the garden and barn. And moving some small trees.... planting a lot of new fruit/nut trees....digging out the larger boulders we often come across...the dozens of durn stumps from all the half-dead spindly saplings we cut down. Maybe there's another way than a BH that I haven't thought of....

Yes, a box grader is the best thing since sliced bread. Even pulled behind the Huskvee (far from ideal!) it's been a big help.

 

[Xfaxman]

This is what 30 degrees of body lean looks like on the back of the dam, a 26.57 degree slope.

Serious pucker factor the first time I mowed it with the 6' deck.

 

[vtsnowedin]

This is what 30 degrees of body lean looks like on the back of the dam, a 26.57 degree slope.


Serious pucker factor the first time I mowed it with the 6' deck.

One thing about man made slopes is that they are uniform from top to bottom and all the way across the face. If you can start up from the bottom you can make it all the way to the top unless you hit a chuck hole. Out in the woods it is entirely random and you have to feel your way along and pick and poke at it until you find the best routes.

 

[jb1390]

Yes, I've thought about that a lot. A lot of our soil is very, very hard packed clay--like cement unless it's just rained; then it's like wet soap--so I was questioning whether a FEL would be able to dig in. And then some of the areas where we want to improve the trail by evening out the grades to make it more tractor-friendly, it's very humpy, so can you really drive a FEL into that? And we do have at least 1,000 feet of ditches to maintain. And then when I get ready to run water supply to the garden and barn. And moving some small trees.... planting a lot of new fruit/nut trees....digging out the larger boulders we often come across...the dozens of durn stumps from all the half-dead spindly saplings we cut down. Maybe there's another way than a BH that I haven't thought of....

Yes, a box grader is the best thing since sliced bread. Even pulled behind the Huskvee (far from ideal!) it's been a big help.

Box blade or loader won't deal with rocks......if you have any of those you want moved a backhoe will be a much better option.

As far as operating on hills, keeping the machine straight up and down hills will be much safer than going across sideways.

 

[vtsnowedin]

 

[JRobyn]

For hard clay soils and rocks (and roots) you will want to add a tooth bar to your FEL. A VERY worthwhile and relatively low-cost tool. In my experience, you really can't do any meaningful "digging" or even grading without one.

- Jay

 

[Creamer]

Good thing you had the Deere to help you with that one!

 

[blucoondawg]

"Ability" I think is subjective. You guys who have machines that can take down the side of a mountain in a few passes have one idea of ability; for folks like me who've been doing everything with a rake and shovel for years, even a small tractor is a BIG step up. Even if my backhoe can only take small scoops, if it doesn't involve using my back and a shovel, it's a good thing.

I don't have a machine that can move mountains, that is exactly my point, even as large as my tractor and backhoe is it doesn't have the weight and power of the tractor loader backhoe you find on a construction sight, it isn't even proportional, those machines are way heavier and stronger than any hoe attachment you will ever find for any farm tractor. With my machine I have to take smaller bites with the backhoe in tough ground and digging out stumps and breaking off the large root structure is doable but a chore. I have operated a smaller 30hp tractor with a 6ft bush hog hoe and it was obviously even weaker and lighter, going to a scut model would be lighter yet. Coyote machine's recommendation of the 40hp kioti would be a good match it's the same size as my 50 has a very substantial loader capability and a variety of backhoe subframes are available.

 

[Coyote machine]

Thank you very much for the advice. Scary stories. My worst fear is dropping the tractor into the big pond (14 ft deep).

We have always had two unbreakable rules when operating ANY kind of power equipment:

1) Never unless someone else is there on the property.
2) Always carry the cell phone.

(We have a lot of bear so we even carry a cell when walking in the wooded areas.)

I do intend to post some pics of the project areas, and I look forward to hearing your ideas.

You're welcome. Maybe you should add to the 'rules', bring scuba gear!:laughing:

A FEL bucket can be used to dig various kinds of ground, but IMHO, it is not the best tool to do so. Concrete like clay may resist being dug up to smooth out the bumps in your landscaping. A box blade and backhoe can do a lot to add to your capability to rework your 'dirt'. And there is less chance of bending loader arms, parts, if using hoe or BB to loosen, then bucket to work the area smoother.

Like most people wanting/getting their first tractor the list of to do projects is endless, the highest priorities on the list and what you can afford to do the most important work items are what ought to determine what you buy, whether new or used. Short budget, maybe buy used and see what you can accomplish, then save and trade, buy new once you get a feel for the real magnitude of what you're trying to do with what works, based on your revised budget. You won't know how much you can get done until you have a machine that is more capable than your Husky, for your specific chore list.

If I had my way/wish list I'd have a rubber track skidsteer, and a mini-Ex in a snap. But for now, and probably for my lifetime my Kioti has to do most everything I throw at it and then some.
I'm not complaining, I love my tractor; I'm just saying, if wishes were horses.....
Did I mention a 12 way blade on a dozer? Well, one can dream, yes?

 

[SpringHollow]

This is what 30 degrees of body lean looks like on the back of the dam, a 26.57 degree slope.

I have a storm creek that I drive down into. The banks are 20 degrees plus and the slope of the ditch is also 20 degrees plus. With the Power Trac, I do u-turns on the bank which is 20 degrees in 2 directions. That is with single tires and the bucket raised in the air and full of gravel and water. Never even think about tipping. Above 30 degrees, I would add the duals (tractor is rated for sideways on a 45 degree slope when the duals are installed). The used one I bought was used to mow the sides of ammunition depots. Regular tractors that I have owned have a wheel in the air when I start lifting on a 10 degree slope, probably even on a 5 degree slope. Power Tracs are extremely safe slope tractors. Because of that and their versatility, I use mine more in a year than I did with the regular tractors in 10 years. Just don't buy one to plow a 50 acre field.

Ken

 

[vtsnowedin]

Here is one that could get a lot of her to do list done.
http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=9304139

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

For hard clay soils and rocks (and roots) you will want to add a tooth bar to your FEL. A VERY worthwhile and relatively low-cost tool. In my experience, you really can't do any meaningful "digging" or even grading without one.

- Jay

Yep, that's on the short list and I was going ask how much it helps. Thanks for the input.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I have a storm creek that I drive down into. The banks are 20 degrees plus and the slope of the ditch is also 20 degrees plus. With the Power Trac, I do u-turns on the bank which is 20 degrees in 2 directions. That is with single tires and the bucket raised in the air and full of gravel and water. Never even think about tipping. Above 30 degrees, I would add the duals (tractor is rated for sideways on a 45 degree slope when the duals are installed). The used one I bought was used to mow the sides of ammunition depots. Regular tractors that I have owned have a wheel in the air when I start lifting on a 10 degree slope, probably even on a 5 degree slope. Power Tracs are extremely safe slope tractors. Because of that and their versatility, I use mine more in a year than I did with the regular tractors in 10 years. Just don't buy one to plow a 50 acre field.

Ken

That's impressive.

Actually I think the PowerTrac is ideal for my needs, at least on paper. I'm having a problem with the fact that kitted out it costs the same as a SCUT. Also, on the videos I watched I noticed two things: 1) the engine seemed really, really noisy; that will really affect how I feel about using it. 2) There's a video of a PT digging with a BH and every time he dug down, the front end lifted, and every time he raised up the full bucket, the rear end lifted. Or do I have that backwards???? Maybe that was an older, smaller model?

Definitely interested in learning more about the PT.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Here is one that could get a lot of her to do list done.
http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=9304139

Ha ha..... that's a beeeg machine.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Ha ha..... that's a beeeg machine.

Yes and it can get a lot done in a short amount of time. Assuming it all runs and works right you could buy it and do the bulk of your earth moving to do list while putting a couple of hundred hours on it in a year or so. Then you could resell it for as much as you paid for it and buy the tractor you want for continued maintenance of your property and not have to beat it up moving a lot of over sized (for it) rocks. The seats adjust. You can drive a beeeg machine just as well as you can a small one.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

It's interesting that I've gotten recommendations for everything from a Power Trac (kind of a mini-SCUT on steroids) to a 40 hp tractor. Guess there's more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[Creamer]

Ha ha..... that's a beeeg machine.

It's not that big and will do a lot of work. It definitely is a nice tractor and the right size if you want a tractor. The PT has its place and it all depends on what you want but this is a good example of a good tractor.

 

[blucoondawg]

The power trac is lacking in the ground clearance department and has quite small tires which will have a harder time rolling over objects or uneven surfaces that a tractor tire could handle easily. Could have issues getting it stuck a lot if not on smooth enough ground