Using backhoe ports for toplink on CK/CX

[bitbanger]

And unless you've got the backhoe hooked up you definitely don't want to put the lever all the way over to A or B and leave it there as you'll dead-head the system and ruin the hydraulic pump.

Not saying it's good but based on the circuit above this would simply go up against the main relief, correct? Same as holding the loader valve in full extent.

I actually made this mistake for the first time today when taking the backhoe off - I was readying to pull away after removing the BH and noticed the bucket wasn't raising very fast/and of course the slight noise. Quickly realized what it was, but the fact that the machine will move (HST pump separate) and loader still operated, worries me I'll forget even longer in the future. The valve is very easy to mistake for the 3pt also. Something I'll just have to get used to.

 

[bitbanger]

I finished my toplink and thought I'd just follow up with some info that may be helpful to others in the future.

The cylinder I chose is a 20-7/8" to 31-7/8" from Agri-Supply. I am running Pat's Easy Connect (add's 4") so not only did I need a little extra base length, I also wanted some extra stroke for boxblade smoothing with it's rear blade. I technically "lost" about an inch retracted by not using the factory toplink + Pat's, but I'm still ahead from stock range retracted (without Pat's).

Category 1 Hydraulic Top Link 20 7/8" - 31 7/8"

I had hoses made locally using 1/4" line. They didn't stock any BSPP banjo but I'm happy with this setup. One line is 27" the other 28". FYI the rear remote couplers are technically 1/2" ISO 7241-1 Series A (aka Parker 6600). This is a handy ID chart: https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/qd_sizechart.pdf

 

[Everhard]

I'm not an expert but I believe if you left the rear remote dead-headed long enough it will damage the pump eventually? Anyway as you noted it decreases performance of upstream hydraulics and anything after it won't work. (3pth) Something to keep in mind if you're trying to figure out "what that odd/different" sound is and why things aren't working as they should.

Nice job on the toplink.

 

[MaxLee]

Hello ... little behind on this , going to be getting a CK2620 in a few weeks when it comes into dealer. I ask them same question and reply was they don't use the spring rear remote.
So what I am getting from reading this post is you just need to use the lever for up or down (in or out) and always return to center, never let it lock into the A or B position ?

Thanks

 

[Everhard]

Correct, with the top link attached don't leave it in A or B position. Once you've lengthened or shortened the top link to the desired length then move the lever back to center. Even if that's the full contraction or extension of the cylinder make sure you center the control.

E.

 

[MaxLee]

OK, I appreciate the confirmation. I don't see that as a big deal for the rear remotes

 

[bitbanger]

Hello ... little behind on this , going to be getting a CK2620 in a few weeks when it comes into dealer. I ask them same question and reply was they don't use the spring rear remote.
So what I am getting from reading this post is you just need to use the lever for up or down (in or out) and always return to center, never let it lock into the A or B position ?

Thanks

If that is indeed the only option, and it's not a power beyond port, then yes it works fine for my needs in this manner.

I'd be surprised if you couldn't specify the rear remote actuation type on a CK though? Might want to ask around some more. Maybe just not something they've done before/aren't aware of the kit part number?

 

[MaxLee]

If that is indeed the only option, and it's not a power beyond port, then yes it works fine for my needs in this manner.

I'd be surprised if you couldn't specify the rear remote actuation type on a CK though? Might want to ask around some more. Maybe just not something they've done before/aren't aware of the kit part number?

My understanding that they can add another remote that has the spring to return to center. Its a whole new set up. But if the remotes are already there I will just use like you do.

 

[tacticalturnip]

If that is indeed the only option, and it's not a power beyond port, then yes it works fine for my needs in this manner.

I'd be surprised if you couldn't specify the rear remote actuation type on a CK though? Might want to ask around some more. Maybe just not something they've done before/aren't aware of the kit part number?

Upon adding rear remotes to my CK2610 the dealer gave me actuation options. Now I have a 2610, not 2610SE, so I added the remotes. The SE models, I believe, come with one of each. I don't recall the names...

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Rear remote valves to run backhoes have detents, and stay where you put them. Rear remotes for general use have spring returns to center. You can add loader valves to run things at the rear and leave the rear remote in the detent, but you typically loose the lift on the three point. Or you could use the rear remote with the detent, and add a splitter so you can control both top and tilt with it, and return it to center after the adjustments.

On some tractors you can add another rear remote valve and have both types installed.

On my tractor I found the stock FEL valve for my tractor on eBay, for $75 plus shipping, from a guy who bought out a closed dealership.

There is a power beyond port on the factory FEL valve which runs back to the rear remote, and into the transmission. I’m going to route the power beyond to the inlet of the second FEL valve, to run top and tilt. Then route the Power Beyond from it to the transmission. I’m waiting for a joystick, and cables to show up, before I figure out how/where I’m mounting everything.