Using DR PTO trimmer on Cat 2 Tractor?

[schmism]

Hmmm, anything special that would need to be done to weld the ends?

Aaron Z

not really. fairly typical way to keep wire cable from unraveling. like taking a match to nylon rope. I think the preferred way is to just heat it with a OA torch. (least thats what i do) IE you dont need filler wire that a mig or stick welder would add.

Mind the mushroom on the end if you have to feed the line through a small hole or something, Its hard to tell what the tolerance on that string holder is.

 

[aczlan]

not really. fairly typical way to keep wire cable from unraveling. like taking a match to nylon rope. I think the preferred way is to just heat it with a OA torch. (least thats what i do) IE you dont need filler wire that a mig or stick welder would add.

So just heat it up with a torch till its cherry red?

Mind the mushroom on the end if you have to feed the line through a small hole or something, Its hard to tell what the tolerance on that string holder is.

Normally, the line has to be fed through, but removing one bolt on the bottom of the spindle will let you just set the line in (ie: the pieces the line goes through are just stacked and come apart if you pull the bolt).

Aaron Z

 

[schmism]

So just heat it up with a torch till its cherry red? Aaron Z

Generally it has to be hotter than just red. orange or yellow, so that the metal starts to melt slightly and ball up on the end. (which is why its an OA torch and not propane) Its only 1/8" aircraft cable so it doesnt take much. You can put a slight mushroom on the end so you know the strands are welded together, then before it cools you can beat it back to nominal diam on a vise or something.

Just try a few times before to get a feel for it before you cut off the lenghts. I prefer to use a cut off wheel to cut the cable as opposed to some sort of jaw cutter.

 

[Coyote machine]

I wonder if a Beaver blade could be used on the mower instead of the line head? I know it can be used on the Dr. trimmer mowers. That would certainly make for more aggressive cutting results, without need for aircraft cable and the potential problems broken pieces of cable might cause in the field around fence posts.

I put a call in to the factory store and waiting on a reply - probably tomorrow.....

 

[nc redneck]

Let us know what you find out ?
Scott

 

[RoyJackson]

I looked into this attachment, but the reviews weren't too good.
I do have a DR trimmer, but it's one of th wheeled machines (not self propelled).

I am really curious how well TBNers (who actually buy one) like 'em...

 

[k0ua]

Generally it has to be hotter than just red. orange or yellow, so that the metal starts to melt slightly and ball up on the end. (which is why its an OA torch and not propane) Its only 1/8" aircraft cable so it doesnt take much. You can put a slight mushroom on the end so you know the strands are welded together, then before it cools you can beat it back to nominal diam on a vise or something.

Just try a few times before to get a feel for it before you cut off the lenghts. I prefer to use a cut off wheel to cut the cable as opposed to some sort of jaw cutter.

A TIG torch would do it in a heartbeat

 

[aczlan]

I picked up a new set of hoses (T rated so I can use propane down the road if need be) and a pair of flashback arrestors for my oxy-acetelene torch, set.
Will give the cable idea a shot.

Aaron Z

 

[Coyote machine]

The Dr. factory store in VT told me they went from brackets to welds in a few places as the earliest version of the 3PT came to market. They said there is a new version of the string line holder that comes with the current machines being sold now, but the item is back-ordered currently. The new line holder is designed to keep the string in place better than the prior design. It is retro-fittable to machines built before it was available.

As far as attaching a Beaver blade with chainsaw chain attached, the 3PT Dr. mowers don't have the clutch and bail-bar that the walk behind and self-propelled units use, and without that and some sort of added bracket to keep the blade from cutting into fence posts there is currently no provision for the Beaver blade idea to be used at this time.
I suggested they make the necessary changes to upgrade the machine to it's full potential by adding a cable control similar to the mowers they make that tow behind an ATV or lawn tractor. This would allow for disengaging the blade and then they could add a bracket to keep the blade away from posts.

FWIW, another completely different approach that may work for many is the following: Cutthat.com | Sabre Samurai a front mounted bucket, small sized sickle bar mower controlled by a aux front hydraulic circuit. It might serve the additional uses of a grapple, or angle capable snow blade, etc.

I forgot to mention, the Samuri also allows 110 degree of adjustment to allow for cutting ditches, as well as hedges, vineyards and overhanging tree branches up to 1 1/2" in size. That gives it way more usage possibilities, IMHO, than a big 3PT driven single use machine. Note: I am in no way associated with either company, just expressing my personal views here.
Food for though to alternatives for different uses/needs. :confused3:

 

[aczlan]

The Dr. factory store in VT told me they went from brackets to welds in a few places as the earliest version of the 3PT came to market. They said there is a new version of the string line holder that comes with the current machines being sold now, but the item is back-ordered currently. The new line holder is designed to keep the string in place better than the prior design. It is retro-fittable to machines built before it was available.

On ours the problem isn't keeping the line from coming off its that the line wears right off if you get too close to the ground or a rock.

As far as attaching a Beaver blade with chainsaw chain attached, the 3PT Dr. mowers don't have the clutch and bail-bar that the walk behind and self-propelled units use, and without that and some sort of added bracket to keep the blade from cutting into fence posts there is currently no provision for the Beaver blade idea to be used at this time.
I suggested they make the necessary changes to upgrade the machine to it's full potential by adding a cable control similar to the mowers they make that tow behind an ATV or lawn tractor. This would allow for disengaging the blade and then they could add a bracket to keep the blade away from posts.

Odd, the round guard on the PTO model (which is different than the guard on the self powered ones) should keep it from cutting into fenceposts.

Aaron Z