Using empty slots in fuse box

[mjribeiro]

Here are shots of the fuse box. I gave up. The empty slots do not have the power side clips to even feed the fuse. I am sure the individual terminals I posted earlier would be fine to connect to a new device, and could also be used to run a new power feed for each circuit. But the only thing I'm gaining there is less leads on the battery. I spent more time researching and running to part stores than the actual project took to complete. Pictures of that to follow in another post later.

 

[grsthegreat]

Here are shots of the fuse box. I gave up. The empty slots do not have the power side clips to even feed the fuse. I am sure the individual terminals I posted earlier would be fine to connect to a new device, and could also be used to run a new power feed for each circuit. But the only thing I'm gaining there is less leads on the battery. I spent more time researching and running to part stores than the actual project took to complete. Pictures of that to follow in another post later.


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your right... they are not set up to actually accept a fuse. that sucks.

 

[Willl]

Those look like mini fuses ?

 

[dodge man]

I couldn't figure out a way to tap into to mine, and just ran the circuit with a fuse off the battery.

 

[mrmikey]

Sounds as if you're planning on an auxillary fuse panel. IMHO it's sometimes better to go that route anyway as the ga wire feeding the panel, in my experience, is almost maxed out from factory. Not only that, if something origonal does go belly up you'll not have to wonder if it's anything you did.
Here's mine I added to my 204 Jinma, I wouldn't even consider tapping into their circuitry LOL.

It's fed with 2-10ga. fused (30A) wires directly off the battery and I've got four relays running the revolving light, front, rear aux lights as well as the glow plug circuit. Might give you some ideas for yours.....Mike

 

[KennyV]

You shouldn't run from the Battery...
Instead run from the Starter solenoid, Large terminal, where the Pos battery cable is attached. KennyV

 

[mrmikey]

You shouldn't run from the Battery...

Reason? just curious.....Mike

 

[grsthegreat]

they make an add on-post for batteries that allow for a #10 -12 stranded wire to be added with an inline fuse for applicatons like this. i have them in my work van.

They even make units large enough for a #2 stranded wire if wanted.

 

[KennyV]

Reason? just curious.....Mike

Just a couple reasons...
Once installed, you normally do not need to move or replace anything associated with it...
Around a battery it will be exposed to acid & removal or disturbances from the occasional 'jump' start... electrically cleaner around the starter, both for the wire terminal and the fuse, if included... Generally the wire run will be closer to the starter and make a neater wire loom package... The mounting hardware is usually always copper or brass at the solenoid, usually lead and steel at the battery.

This is not to say it will not work at the battery. It is just better to be away from it, with more permanent wiring... KennyV

 

[dstig1]

Makes sense, KennyV.

To the OP: That block was pretty much what mine looked like. The inside row on both sides had a hot buss in it.