utility trailers

Golfgar4 · Jul 23, 2003

Mike,

Here's the link to your thread to your June Posting.Trailer Setup

Hoeman00 · Jul 23, 2003

David an easy way to get the tongue weight close is to look at the rear springs on your van, I hope they are leaf type, and see if u have the thick 'helper' leaf on the bottom and it shouldn't be touching on the ends.
If it like I said and not touching drive the tractor on your trailer and keep checking the springs to see when the main springs touch the helpers.
This will give u some tongue weight and after some short test drives adjust tractor ahead about 6" if u need more tongue weight.
If u have a grain mill or gravel pit that isn't real busy put the van on the scale and unload the tractor then get the base weight of van w/ trailer on it.
Load tractor and pull it on till u get the 500# tongue weight.
If u have extra help watch the springs to see how much tongue weight it takes to load the springs (good reference for later when u have different items).
My self I like more tongue weight like 1000#+ , it makes it pull better and u don't get as much wondering on the trailer.
U need a good hitch and HD tow vehicle.

pajoube · Jul 23, 2003

I have been talking to trailer hitch installers and have been given different information. I am in the process of purchasing a 16 to 18 foot double axle trailer to haul max cargo load of 5,000 lbs. One place said I needed a brake controller, load leveler equalizer system and sway bar. Two others said I would only need the brake controller and load leveler equalizer hitch. This to go on a 2001 Suburban with tow package. Can anyone give me his or her thoughts?
PJ

Soundguy · Jul 23, 2003

I've got a 2000 Yukon ( very similar to your surburban )with a tow package, and I pull a 16' tandem axle car hauler type trailer.. 1 axle of electric brakes.

trailer weight is about 1800 lbs, has wood deck... All I have is the electrick brake controller and ov course the factory class III reciever and a drawtite tounge.

These guys that did my brake controller instalation are pretty good.. they also did the instalation for two other vehicles for me.. one being my 98 dodge ram.. none have said I need anything other than the brake controller. All 3 vehicles were factor equipped with 'tow package' whatever they want to call it.. etc. We also pull a horse trailer.. also tandem axle, 1 axle of brakes.... no problems encountered yet.

Soundguy

Nelson · Jul 23, 2003

My hitch is rated for 5000/8000 lbs. The 8000 is with Weight distribution system. It will cost you about 300 to 600 dollars but it is well worth it. What it does is distribute the weight evenly to your tow vehicle. It effectively raises your bumper up to make your tow vehicle and trailer level. Usually the guys at RV dealerships are a good source for info and to buy one.

The system is basically a hitch that fits a 2" reciever and has two torque arms that attach with chains to bolted on brackets on your trailer.

Here are the brackets on the trailer.

Sorry I didn't have time to hook up the trailer for the picture but you can visualize how the bar would attach when the trailer is on the ball.

Its easier than you might guess to hook up the torque arms. You just use the trailer jack to lift the vehicle and trailer up 3 inches or so after its attacahed to the ball, then just lock the chains in place with the pins provided.

I hope this has been helpfull.

SageBrush · Jul 23, 2003

5,000 pounds should be ok without a weight distribution type hitch if you don't haul a lot of cargo inside. Look at your manual it will probably state that you have a 5K rating with just the ball. You have a long wheel base so, sway shouldn't be a big deal with a utility trailer. Just balance your load. The weight will depend on what you carry in the Suburban. Try it and see. If your too nose high get the distribution hitch.

Keep in mind, passengers add a lot of weight to the rear axel, so if you haul people around, the distribution hitch will help move weight forward and will give a better ride.

I personally have not needed sway control on utility trailers, but a friction bar does not cost all that much if you end up needing one. Walmart sells reese products.

PondKeeper · Jul 23, 2003

Like Soundguy, I have a 2001 Yukon with the Denali package (has the larger 6000 engine) with only a brake controller for my dual axle, dual brake 7000# trailer that weighs 1800#. I estimate that with the trailer, tractor and rigging (chains and binders add up #'s also) I go about 5200#'s. My truck is usually empty except for me and a few dogs ( they go 100# each). I have had no problems at all with my Yukon pulling the weight.

Mike

Soundguy · Jul 23, 2003

I was pleased with the pull on my yukon as well.. nice ride with the long wheelbase.... Too bad I don't get to drive it much.. it is the wifes 'car'... The dodge is hauling me around fine for now.. though I'm not to hot about how the overdrive 'hunts' every time there is the slightest variation with the gas pedal... it is beginning to drive me crazyfeeling the unit shift out, etc.. I called dodge, and the mechanic said 'yep.. they do that...' I even brought it in for service and had them test / adjust the shift points.. everything teste out ok.. so 90$ later... still hunts... figures.

Soundguy

SageBrush · Jul 23, 2003

Tranmission shift kit or chip, programmer etc.

There is a few ways of fixing that.

zuiko · Jul 23, 2003

When you do come up with a rig you may find it helpful to have it weighed. Only costs $8 to use one of those CAT scales and they give you the weight on each axel (or set of axels). Pretty cool IMO.