value leader EF155 flail mower rotor replacement.

[metalbender]

My thought would be to remove the remaining bit of shaft, make an end plug to fit the rotor with an appropriate stub for the bearing. Being on the cente line, balancing shouln't be required. Does need to be dialed in while welding.

 

[rocco611]

update on the flail mower repair. I purchased some 1" diameter 4340 round stock and a short piece of 3" Diameter 1018 round to rebuild the end of the flail mower shaft. I reduced the diameter of the 4340 to fit both the bearing and the pulley bushing. I drilled a 1'"hole in the 3" round bar then cut a counter bore in it on the mill using a rotary table. After drilling the hole and cutting the counter bore I welded the 4340 shaft into the 3" round stock. I am now reducing the diameter of the 3" bar to fit inside the flail mower rotor where I cut the broken end off. once I get that fit into the rotor, I will mount the rotor with the new shaft in the mower then tack and adjust with a hammer and a dial indicator till it is straight. I am reluctant to center drill and cross drill the shaft for grease. even though the 4340 is stronger than the original mild steel part I am going to look for a location to drill bearing housing for a grease passage to the bearing.

 

[rocco611]

The "Farmer's Helper" models Betstco sells now aren't the same design with interchangeable parts?

I Called Betstco, the owner said he purchased the value leader company from the previous owner and no longer supported parts for that product line. he said parts from the Betstco farmers helper mowers were not the same. though the parts listing in the manual appears to be identical. he seemed a bit annoyed after the second time I called , so i didn't pursue it further. Figured I would repair it myself or spend a lot more money and buy something I could get parts for.

 

[rocco611]

My thought would be to remove the remaining bit of shaft, make an end plug to fit the rotor with an appropriate stub for the bearing. Being on the cente line, balancing shouln't be required. Does need to be dialed in while welding.

yes that seems to be the best Idea , I am working on the plug with the stub shaft now.

 

[ericm979]

I Called Betstco, the owner said he purchased the value leader company from the previous owner and no longer supported parts for that product line. he said parts from the Betstco farmers helper mowers were not the same. though the parts listing in the manual appears to be identical. he seemed a bit annoyed after the second time I called , so i didn't pursue it further. Figured I would repair it myself or spend a lot more money and buy something I could get parts for.

They appear to be generic Chinese mowers. I realize that each manufacturer makes changes but often many parts are the same. The previous owner of Betstco posted here at times and seemed like a decent guy. From what you report the new owner does not sound very helpful.

 

[rocco611]

I welded in the stub shaft this morning, runout is .030 on the end that I repaired, other end is .060 I guess that should be good enough as it did not vibrate before , being .060 out. there is .005 runout on the shaft where it attaches to the pulley. end play on the rotor shaft is .070 . This mower uses UC205 insert bearings , I am not sure where I should put the end play with these. I know ball bearing do not like to run under preload like taper bearings. I thought about running it at 0 endplay. suggestions ?


thanks

 

[metalbender]

Pic of the bearing mounting?

 

[rocco611]

here are some pics thought about spot facing and angle drilling where the sharpie marks are. not an Ideal location for a zerk though. there is a seal that goes on the outboard side of the bearing flange

 

[metalbender]

Looks like a heavy bit of kit. The bearing is in the assembly in third third pic? How will the lube enter the bearing from an outside zerk?

 

[rocco611]

Looks like a heavy bit of kit. The bearing is in the assembly in third third pic? How will the lube enter the bearing from an outside zerk?

I didnt want to drill the center then cross drill and groove the shaft to lube the bearing from the end of the shaft. that was the weakness that caused the failure. Even with the new 4340 steel shaft that method seems marginal at best given the small diameter of the shaft. yes the bearing mount is in the 3rd and 4th pic. Last night I spot faced the edge of the flange, tilted the mill 25 degrees forward and 20degree to the right. drilled into the cavity that is used to insert the bearing into the flange assy. I have to lube the bearing from under the mower now and the zerk is susceptible to damage from things flying around in the flails. but I mow two acres with it four times a year with grass blades , I am not mulching twigs or hitting rocks.
ehh, I have probably spent too much time fixing this thing, but I do like making chips on the lathe and mill I will post some more pics