Flail Mower value leader flail

[IslandTractor]

Easier to replace the bolt than belts (cheaper too)

Yes, but the belts don't break from a brief shock load, they just slip a bit and then the tractor stalls if the load is not removed. I have broken many shear bolts on a bush hog PTO and hated it as it always left me with a 15 minute maintenance task in the middle of a field. Having belts slip occasionally is pretty benign.

Belts of course do eventually wear out and when they go it can be dramatic. However, I wouldn't say that in my case the belts failed due to a shock load. They were about three years old and I was mowing in heavy brush when they started to fail. One apparently had disintegrated and then the other two started slipping/smoking/smoldering. I assume that is how mower belts eventually fail after wearing out and didn't think it was due to a simple shock load.

 

[Builder]

I often wondered if that wouldn't be a good reason to buy a Bush Hog brand finish mower instead of a bush hog for HEAVY large lawn areas. You have the belts that can slip when you bog it down too much. I too hate the shear bolt process and like a slip clutch. Drawback is they're not tough like a stupm jumper type bush hog. I found a 90" Bush hog finish mower with hydraulic height adjust for $1,500. Tough lookiing mower, but I'm still holding out for a 8' flail.
Couple of my customers want to know when I'm coming out and my puny 5' bush hog is on it's death bed.
I gotta make a move here soon.

 

[IslandTractor]

Why not just add a slip clutch to a bush hog? AgriSupply sells them for about $80. Easy to install on the PTO shaft (just make sure you order the right style to match your PTO shaft and gearbox the first time and don't ask me how I know).

 

[Builder]

Why not just add a slip clutch to a bush hog? AgriSupply sells them for about $80. Easy to install on the PTO shaft (just make sure you order the right style to match your PTO shaft and gearbox the first time and don't ask me how I know).

Because my bush hog is way too small and isn't worth more than ~ $200. I need a bigger newer mower.

 

[IslandTractor]

Because my bush hog is way too small and isn't worth more than ~ $200. I need a bigger newer mower.

Gotcha. Have you looked at the twin spindle Bush Hog rotary cutters? They are about seven or maybe eight feet wide. They seem like a nice compromise for field mowing as they are wider than a typical Bush Hog of caparable weight/cost but they are much tougher than finish mowers.

 

[Builder]

Gotcha. Have you looked at the twin spindle Bush Hog rotary cutters? They are about seven or maybe eight feet wide. They seem like a nice compromise for field mowing as they are wider than a typical Bush Hog of caparable weight/cost but they are much tougher than finish mowers.

I had my heart set on that exact mower, the SQ84T, but I was told the hitch frames are light duty at best and I'd really like to be able to adjust height from cab. Really I think I'm a 8' flail mower candidate.

 

[IslandTractor]

I had my heart set on that exact mower, the SQ84T, but I was told the hitch frames are light duty at best and I'd really like to be able to adjust height from cab. Really I think I'm a 8' flail mower candidate.

That makes sense. Too bad 8 foot flails are so expensive.

 

[Builder]

That makes sense. Too bad 8 foot flails are so expensive.

Ugh, I know....

 

[swampvol]

Are your pins replaceable?

David

Nope. They're welded to the frame.

 

[sodamo]

I keep thinking of adding a slip clutch to my flail.

Regarding shear vs belt slippage, I'd wonder about the stress factor on the gear box. I've noticed with mine, that the PTO shaft freely rotates clockwise, meaning there may be some slack before engaging. I'm guessing that when I get sloppy, that shear bolt snaps before the stress gets fully transferred to the gear box. Wonder how stressful it might be on the gear box if the weak point was beyond, ie at the belts?
On my Rhino cutter, the shear bolt was a through the shaft type. The Hanmey shear is quite different, a bolt that runs parallel to the shaft. So where the former breaks by shearing across the bolt diameter, the Hanmey twists along its axis. Hope that makes sense.
I really do need to be more mindful of my engagement technique, guess I got lack in my brushhog days. :laughing:

David

 

[sodamo]

Nope. They're welded to the frame.

Ouch!!!
In my manual, looks like the roller and pins are replaced as a unit. Wonder what the costs.

David

 

[DieselBound]

What's the latest opinion on these flails?

I just spotted someone selling a near-new Value Leader 60" fail for a decent price. And, I got to thinking about my wife's recent comment that she wanted to learn to use the B7800 to cut grass. I'm a bit hesitant to unleash her on the tractor with the 5' rotary on it, and after seeing this flail pop up I got to thinking that perhaps this is the way to facilitate fulfilling her request (more safely and comfortably).

The B7800's have the quarter-inching valve to control the 3pt, which requires a lot more fiddling to get the 3pt height set as needed. Because our ground is pretty uneven and we have many trees and have to work around tree root crowns the rotary requires constantly adjusting (I recently replaced our 5' rotary with one that's got a floating top link and that seems to make a huge difference). For me, the adjusting, although it can get tiring, is pretty automatic (after 1,000+ seat hours on this tractor). Since the flail has a short footprint (no long tail) is my thinking that it would tend to bottom out on high spots less frequently than a rotary that this would translate into a reduced need to adjust the 3pt?

Before I shell out a bunch more money on such an implement (I've been pouring out money equipping the Kioti) I want to be able to communicate to my wife that this is justifiable. Keep in mind that we already have that 5' rotary (not to mention a 6' for the Kioti): I do not intend to part with it, as there is still a need to clear heavy brush in tight spaces.