Valve stem guard

[Massey convert]

I use my tractor in the woods, and have torn a valve stem off in the past, I don't want it to happen again. I thought about welding a pipe nipple on the rim, but learned here that the tire should be de-mounted before any welding on the rim. I found some rusty angle iron and put these together...

 

[Smokeydog]

Those are heavy duty and should be great armor. Like the pipe nipple protectors on our tractors. Surprised you didn’t box, pipe or notch to provide access to the valve stems? You do have good protection now.

 

[Massey convert]

Smokeydog,
They are removable by removing two wheel nuts, hopefully I won't ever need access to the valve stems.

 

[WranglerX]

Think I would have ended angle with a sleeve so valve stem was still accessible with out having to remove anything....

Dale

 

[Massey convert]

Dale,
I'm not sure what you mean about a sleeve, or how it would fasten, and be removable. I can have any one of these off in a few minutes including getting the wrench.

 

[tradosaurus]

Another good reason to have wheels spaced just within the bucket width.

 

[Massey convert]

The wheels may have been just within the bucket width when I took delivery of the tractor but I moved them outabout 3 inches for a little more clearance for the tire chains. Funny thing was, I didn't need them this winter in the woods with four-wheel drive and diff lock. I sure wish I'd bought this tractor twenty years ago.

 

[Smokeydog]

Enjoyed your problem solving idea and post. Thanks for sharing. If removing some bolts to check air pressure works for you that’s fine. Your modifications work for you and that is most important. Having valve stem damage out in the woods in no fun. It was only a suggestion to have a piece of pipe/tubing welded to your angle iron frame that would give protection and easy access to the valve stem.

Saw where one fellow welded a pipe nipple around the valve stems and used threaded pipe caps to completely protect the stems.

Both my current tractors have factory rings welded to the rims to protect the valve stems from debris and mud.

Some of my tractor tires hold air better than others. Older equipment was better. Don’t know if the air leaks out or reacts with the newer rubber, sealant or ballast. Have switched to bolt in valve stems where I can has helped with some slow leaks.

 

[Massey convert]

Originally, I was going to weld pipe nipples to the rim, then use a pipe cap to cover the valve stem as you mentioned. BUT, after some research, I learned that welding to a wheel with the tire mounted can result in some very bad things happening very quickly.
Yesterday, as i was walking past my "old" tractor I noticed that one of the rear tires looked low. Those tires are loaded with calcium cloride, and yes indeedey, the vavle leaked when i removed the stem cap. I added air and after playing around a bit the valve quit leaking. Unfortunetly, the tubes do not have bolt in valve stems, and I may not be finished with the issue.
I had corn juice pumped into the rears on my new tractor, it is made using the by-products of ethanol production, and is only available at one tire store in our area.

 

[John_Mc]

Another good reason to have wheels spaced just within the bucket width.

If you are driving in the woods on anything other than prepared trails, I can tell you from personal experience that is not enough to protect your valve stems. (I had to learn it the hard way. Fortunately, the hit just created a moderate leak, so I was able to air up the trie and drive out of the woods to deal with it.)

I added this to my front wheels. One of these days, I'll paint it with something other than the primer I had on hand at the time. If I ever have my filled rear wheels removed, I'll add it to them as well. (So far, I have not had a problem with the valve stems on my rear wheels).

 

[Redbug]

I did the same thing to mine.

 

[WranglerX]

Dale,
I'm not sure what you mean about a sleeve, or how it would fasten, and be removable. I can have any one of these off in a few minutes including getting the wrench.

Explanation to you question and my suggestion was answered in #8, by Smokeydog...

Dale

 

[Smokeydog]

Good to have on hand some extra valve stem inserts with ballasted tires. I also use metal hex brass caps with sealing washers. Be sure to wash everything thoroughly the CaCl contacts.

Another forest tire problem I had was bending the front rims if caught on stumps, rock or wood. Nothing beating with sledge and ball peen hammers couldn’t fix. The front ag 8.3x22 6ply didn’t have rim guard rubber like the 12ply rears. Thought about rolling some rod, flat bar or angle and welding on the rims outside diameter just below where the tire bead seals. Ending up selling that tractor and getting a Kubota M59 that uses R4 skidsteer tires on the front that have heavy rubber rim guards. Have not had a bent rim with those handling big logs or brush.

Lots of armor a tractor needs to survive in the bush.

 

[Massey convert]

Lots of armor a tractor needs to survive in the bush

While I was shopping for a new tractor last winter I was considering the blue colored one until I noticed the driveshaft was the lowest thing on the tractor. I like the fact that my Massey has it tucked in where it won't be the point the tractor gets hung up when driving over stumps.

 

[homesteader13]

While I was shopping for a new tractor last winter I was considering the blue colored one until I noticed the driveshaft was the lowest thing on the tractor. I like the fact that my Massey has it tucked in where it won't be the point the tractor gets hung up when driving over stumps.

I love my Massey!
Was the blue one a Ford NewHolland like I had in the old days or the LS like my neighbor has that is falling apart?

 

[Massey convert]

I don't want to step on someone's toes here, but it was a New Holland. I was traveling around the state shopping when one of the salesmen called, (my wife was driving), and asked if I would consider a Massey. Up to that point we had been dealing on a New Holland, (his dealership sells both brands). When comparing, the red ones cost less than the blue ones, and the Massey is built like a tank, rugged and heavy, I'm very happy with my choice.

 

[goeduck]

Not new Massey by any means, but I love my 2 old Massey 245 tractors with the Perkins Diesel engines.

 

[Massey convert]

Goeduck, what aren't you in love with on your new Massey?

Not new Massey by any means, but I love my 2 old Massey 245 tractors with the Perkins Diesel engines.

My 2605H has a Simpson engine, which I understand is a licensed copy of a Perkins. I only have about 110 hours on the machine, so I don't have a strong opinion of the engine yet, it starts, and runs without an issue, but I expect no less from any engine. It seems easy on fuel, but that's just a "feeling", I have not checked hours vs usage.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I had to limp out of the woods on 3 wheels twice before I was smart enough to put on some valve stem protection. I didn't want to dismount the tire to weld either so I made a sandwich clamp affair thru one of those moon cut-outs with a piece of pipe welded to it. Those you made should work good for you M convert.

gg

 

[Massey convert]

I had to limp out of the woods on 3 wheels twice before I was smart enough to put on some valve stem protection. I didn't want to dismount the tire to weld either so I made a sandwich clamp affair thru one of those moon cut-outs with a piece of pipe welded to it. Those you made should work good for you M convert.

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gg

I had to limp out of the woods on 3 wheels twice before I was smart enough to put on some valve stem protection. I didn't want to dismount the tire to weld either so I made a sandwich clamp affair thru one of those moon cut-outs with a piece of pipe welded to it. Those you made should work good for you M convert.

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gg

That is awesome! If my valve stems were closer to the center plate I could have done something like you did. What I like about both our designs is that they are completely removable, allowing to return to the original configuration.