Vaulted Ceiling Question.

[EddieWalker]

Why not just spray foam the ceiling as it is and paint it black?

Eddie

 

[SirReal63]

Spray foam won't stay on the foil/bubble wrap, which is sandwiched between the metal studs and the sheet metal. I don't think black is on the approved finished ceiling color for a living space.

I took a better look at it today, I can run my joists and ridge under the ties, there will be enough room without taking up too much headroom. I will go ahead and run a pole in the middle of the ridge span and can use 2x6 #1 @ 16" o.c. but may stay with the 2x8's The existing ridge does ventilate the ceiling above the bubble wrap so I won't have to worry about moisture there, which is where I was most concerned about it. The ply-bead will be edge sealed, back painted and glued into place. In all of the years I sold that product the only time I ever saw a problem with it was when it wasn't edge sealed and was used on an exterior porch.

I suppose I will know soon enough how well it will work.

 

[ace10]

Unless, I am completely misunderstand the goal of this exercise, could you not simply make some shallow scissor trusses for the span? The bottom chord would serve as your ceiling joists. If you wanted to simplify the construction you could reduce the number of trusses and use "purlins" between the bottom chords the to serve as attachment points for the drywall.

 

[SirReal63]

A scissor truss would certainly do it, but it would cut the interior roof pitch in half. The the wall height at the low point right in the loft is about 6' and the peak is a little over 8'. The ridge and joist leaves the most interior space for the loft. There is also a window in the loft that prevents me from dropping the ceiling too low. No drywall, 11/32" Ply-Bead will be the ceiling. Though I like the idea, it will take up too much room on the loft side.

 

[ace10]

Not to belabor the point, but if you got creative, you'd lose virtually no headspace on the eave end and could get pretty aggressive on peak if you wanted to. It's a loft, so accommodations are not really out of the ordinary. Especially if this is just sleeping space.

Here's what I had in mind.

I think you could still trim the window out ok if you laid this out carefully.


$0.02

 

[orezok]

Since this is just interior framing with no roof load it only has to support itself and not sag in the middle.

I see you are in Texas. There may not be any snow load, but there certainly will be a wind load (and lift) which can be substantial. It's my opinion that you will experience a problem if you don't support the roof properly.

 

[SirReal63]

I see you are in Texas. There may not be any snow load, but there certainly will be a wind load (and lift) which can be substantial. It's my opinion that you will experience a problem if you don't support the roof properly.

Thanks for he thiught, I am going to go with a ridge and joists with a pole in the middle of the 24' span. It is the easiest and most reliable method for me. Should I be concerned with the wind load on the interior of an existing building? I am not seeing how that is a point of failure, the interior ceiling will not be a structural component to the existing roof, it is there to hold insulation and a ceiling covering. The existing roof has already endured some pretty strong wind and I will not be changing the existing roof bracing, that is what led to this thread, how to work around the collar ties.

 

[SirReal63]

This is what I went with, a pair of simple 4x12-12' S4S Doug Fir beams and a 4x6 post to hold them. I got the beams for a great price from an old friend in the business who took care of me, rushed them through processing and had them ready in a few days. The 2x8's will sit on top of the beam and not interfere with collar ties, and actually the 2x8's will be placed right beside the metal rafters and can be attached to them for a little extra roof support.

Thanks to all for the suggestions, I always enjoy the creativity and willingness to help that the members of this forum provide.