WilliamBos
Super Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2004
- Messages
- 5,267
- Location
- Innisfil, Ontario, Canada
- Tractor
- MF 1635 12x12 Powershuttle
Beautiful Barn!! Keep the pics coming.
Will
Will
Want to see yet another pole building?
- Thread starter SteelDust
- Start date
- Views: 126300
Megado
Silver Member
SteelDust - thanks for the detailed pic. That's how I suspected you had done that intersection but just wanted to confirm. It's interesting that you're butting up your siding planks. I'm planning on doing my cedar siding as a board & batten install. That's how the two houses on my property are done so I wanted to have the barn match. It will be interesting to compare our two different styles once completed. I'm thinking of leaving my soffits open but will address when I get to that point.
Be thankful you're not allergic to them. Unfortunately I am and seem to swell up like a balloon whenever I get "hit" by one of those boogers. Not sure which is worse...getting nailed by a wasp or those dang pesky scorpion's we have here in Texas!
Jim H.
OP
SteelDust
Silver Member
SteelDust - thanks for the detailed pic. That's how I suspected you had done that intersection but just wanted to confirm. It's interesting that you're butting up your siding planks. I'm planning on doing my cedar siding as a board & batten install. That's how the two houses on my property are done so I wanted to have the barn match. It will be interesting to compare our two different styles once completed. I'm thinking of leaving my soffits open but will address when I get to that point.
Be thankful you're not allergic to them. Unfortunately I am and seem to swell up like a balloon whenever I get "hit" by one of those boogers. Not sure which is worse...getting nailed by a wasp or those dang pesky scorpion's we have here in Texas!
Jim H.
I went back and forth on what to do with the soffits as well. At least 90% of the time the top half of the dutch doors on the 3 stalls will be open. This should allow for plenty of airflow. If something changes or that is not enough. I'll come back with a 3" hole saw and cut soffit vents. I think this would look better and be easier to screen off.
As far as the siding being waterproof.... Keep in mind the planks are tongue and groove. It's not just cedar board butted up against one another. The T&G fits tight enough together that I've had to hammer each piece in place. Also, the siding is as dry as it ever will be. As the humidity increses any swelling will just serve to make a tighter joint. If I run into one that is not a tight fit, it goes into my "rip down for trim" pile. After I got the first wall up, I blasted it with a garden hose from a few different angles. The only leaks I found were from a couple of knot holes. That problem can be solved with a bit of caulk. I also laid the siding so the the prevailing wind will drive the rain away from the joint, instead of into it.
Robert_in_NY
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2001
- Messages
- 8,552
- Location
- Silver Creek, NY
- Tractor
- Case-IH Farmall 45A, Kubota M8540 Narrow, New Holland TN 65, Bobcat 331, Ford 1920, 1952 John Deere M, Allis Chalmers B, Bombardier Traxter XT, Massey Harris 81RC and a John Deere 3300 combine, Cub Cadet GT1554
Eddie and myself also are referring to the butt joints where there is no tounge or groove. Water running down the wall will hit these joints and while it may not leak now the water will soak into the boards there are start rotting them. You are going to have to put a good sealer on these walls and keep up the maintenance in order to slow this process.
OP
SteelDust
Silver Member
Ahhh yes, I can see the concern there. I mitered each of the butt joints at a 45. I'm cutting all the siding on a compound miter saw anyhow, so flipping the saw over to the 45 stop isn't all that much added work.
I've always found you get a much cleaner, tighter joint when doing this, especially with T&G. I arrange the joint so that the top board overlaps the lower board by about a 32nd of an inch (barely visible). When you tap in the next row of siding this forces the two slightly offset tongues into alignment, thereby pulling the joint even tighter. Aligning the joint this way also creates an uphill path for water to flow if it's to soak into the joint.
Yes, the barn will be stained with a high quality, semi transparent, water repellent stain. It will be reapplied as necessary. More work, yes, but in my mind worth it for the aesthetic value over metal siding.
OP
SteelDust
Silver Member
Just a quick update, nearing the end of the exterior siding. I apologize for the picture quality, I'm not sure what is going on with the camera. I decided to make it easier on myself and beak up the siding on the large, completely sided rear wall. I'll run a belly band across the entire length to cover up the seam and give it a better look. It will be nice to have it closed in, the only problem being is that it's getting dark in there pretty early in the day now. Looks like I might move up the electrical. Once the siding is done, I think it'll be onto stalls and the exterior paddocks. I can put trim up during the rainy season if it comes to that. I need to get the paddocks graded out and finished before it turns into a mud hole.
View from inside the loft.
View from inside the loft.
ldabe
Gold Member
Steeldust,
Great job!
Are the openings in the loft for feeding hay down into the stalls?
Are you going to put up rails?
Again, great job man.
Great job!
Are the openings in the loft for feeding hay down into the stalls?
Are you going to put up rails?
Again, great job man.
keving
Gold Member
Beautiful. I really like the design and all that wood.
OP
SteelDust
Silver Member
Yes, I'll be able to feed hay down from the loft. I will put rails up when I'm closer to having things finished off. Right now, they'd just be in the way.
