Want to see yet another pole building?

[SteelDust]

What a gorgeous barn! I am in Olympia and just getting ready to start a 36x72 pole barn on my property utilizing a similar rafter/truss design but with a single pitch roof rather than the monitor style. Steeldust, I wondered if you could post a followup on how your building has held up and if there is anything you would change in hindsight?

Thanks for the terrific thread and all the detail, it sure helps to have some pictures to help visualize what we will be doing!

A good friend of mine just set poles for a similar stlye/size structure down in Toledo WA. What pitch are you going with for your roof? He's going 2/12 which I think is a bit flat for his planned rafter/purlin choice.


I should post some updated pictures, the grade work around the building is a bit different now, the horse pannel paddocks off the stalls are done, along with a few other minor details. I've been sketching out plans for the tack room and stairs to the loft recently, hopefully getting that done this winter.

It's held up well, no major problems. Two winters ago we had more snow than anyone around here can remember, and I didn't note any deflection in the rafters or purlins. The stain still looks new after 2 winters.

I mentioned not putting swing out doors on the eave side, but, as you know, our snowfall here is limited and it's only been an issue once since building. I probably would have spent a bit more money and got the cannonball style track for the sliders. I also would have done a bit more extensive site prep while I had the heavy equip out here. It's fun picking at it with the tractor, but time consuming.

 

[Stek]

Our pitch is a 6:12, a little steep for the area since we don't usually have snow load to contend with but will give us sufficient headroom to make the loft wider then just over the center aisle (some day in the very distant future).

It took the county 3 months to approve our plans so we are just getting ready to break ground now. Thanks to the delay we will get to build entirely in the rainy season!

Oh who am I kidding, if we get the roof on before next June we'll be doing well

 

[drw]

I'm preparing to build a barn based on this one. I've drawn up a lot of drawings to scale and am nearly ready to proceed to the next step.

One question I have, if I may: your purlins up top that sit on the rafters, those are 2x6x12 right? Are you not concerned about them sagging over time? It looks like they are spanning a 12' distance each without supports between them. That just seems like an awful long span for a 2x6.

 

[JDRandyC]

SteelDust -

A question if you don't mind.

I want to make some slider doors like you have for my barn. On the 2 by 6 frame for the doors, how are the horizontal members of the frame connected to the vertical members? Did you use dowells or are they just toe nailed or screwed? Or is it put together with some type of lap joint? Thanks

 

[SteelDust]

SteelDust -

A question if you don't mind.

I want to make some slider doors like you have for my barn. On the 2 by 6 frame for the doors, how are the horizontal members of the frame connected to the vertical members? Did you use dowells or are they just toe nailed or screwed? Or is it put together with some type of lap joint? Thanks

Sorry for the delay, haven't checked back on this thread in quite a while.

On the larger outside slider doors, I did use a simple lap joint on the framing, glued and screwed. Each piece of siding is held to the frame by 1 1/2" stainless screws (Spax, I think) and glue at the top and bottom runners and along any bracing, effectively making the door one solid sheet. It's held up through horses rubbing on it, before I finished the paddock fencing, and one "runaway" tractor bucket (that hit with enough force to shear the bolt holding the lower door guide roller, but didn't damage the integrity of the door).

On the larger swinging doors, I used 3/4" ply in between the frame and siding. As I figured that even with glue and screws, gravity would cause the door to sag over time without the integrity of the plywood. I would have done this on the sliders as well, but didn't want the extra weight. Over time those heavy sliders can get difficult to open.

On the inside stall sliders. If you look at the top in the pictures. I used a piece of 2x6 with 4" lag screws to make sure the vertical frame of the door did not seperate from the top header. Lots of glue, lots of screws, and a few strategically placed glued dowells holding those doors together. No problems to date with them.

 

[JDRandyC]

Thanks Steel!

 

[ultrarunner]

Checking back to see if the barn is complete?

 

[schweizer]

Beautiful barn, steeldust! Took awhile to read all of this thread. I'm starting on a 36'x36' barn soon and you gave me lots of ideas. Thanks!

Marcus

 

[yelbike]

Wow. Didn't know people still built quality barns like that anymore. Thats awesome! Thanks for the many pictures!

 

[Willl]

SteelDude, don't forget drw.