Wanting first impact wrench

[wedge40]

The next day I went down to the bus barn and borrowed a 3/4" gun they use for bus maintenance. Put it on the nut and I swear I heard one click and the nut spun off.

Sometimes there is only one right tool for the job.

Thats because like the jar lid, you had loosened the day before.

Wedge

 

[LD1]

I guess I'm wondering why you would need a 3/4" Impact wrench? Are you changing semi truck wheels?

I dont have a 3/4", but I do have the 2135TiMax, which is almost as good as a 3/4" gun. And I can think of several things CUT related that would require an gun more powerfull than a cordless, like a stout 1/2" or 3/4" drive.

Like older Bushhog blades and stump-jumper nuts/bolts

Older implement 3PH pins

Nut on the 2-5/16 ball in my hitch I tow the tractor with.

There have been times when even my 2135 has let me down. but usually when it does, it requires at least a 4' cheater pipe. I cannot imagine the # of times that a little ~250ft-lb cordless would let me down.

 

[ModMech]

Im in the planning phase of purchasing my first impact wrench. I want a good one made in the USA. Im considering an Ingersoll Rand. I dont know much about impact wrenches and dont know whether to get a 1/2 or 3/4.

1/2" drive is ALL you will need unless you are swinging tires on heavy trucks or removing bolts with heads larger than 1.25".

What will a 3/4" do that a 1/2" will not.

Break anything that is stuck......

When do you need the added "power" of a 3/4?

Removing 3/4" and LARGER bolts that are stuck/rusted. Note: that is THREAD diameter, not "hex" diameter.

Also, what is the upper limit "nut size" that can be had in a 1/2 " socket.

That is a loaded question. For a GOOD wrench (IR231) and decent threads, they will do 1.5" ok but not "fast". Anything smaller than 7/8" "nut size" is a walk in the park for them.

I have been using air tools for 25+ years, professionally as a HD mechanic and on heavy equipment. One REALLY good 1/2" is all most people will ever need or even want. There is nothing on a hobby farm you can't fix with a good 1/2" impact, unless you need a 10 Ton jack as well.

I have an IR 231 with the extended anvil for use on "Dayton" type (spoke) truck wheels, it has changed THOUSANDS of tires and has only been tuned up once in 15 years. It is, to this day, THE wrench I grab out of the box for almost everything bigger than a 3/8" diameter bolt (9/16" socket).

I also own the Composite version of it's big brother, the 2141 and that monster will BREAK anything that the 231 cannot loosen, this is not always a good thing It also works the compressor to death, even with a 1/2" hose.

 

[5030]

John...

You ought to try running my Gardner Denver Belly Bumper with coring bits. It takes every bit of my 175psi/30cfm IMC with 1" jackhammer hose....

 

[5030]

I want to relate a little true story about using cheater bars and sockets....

We own a Class 8 Tractor Trailer and the front axle 'U' bolts cap nuts take some serious torque, both to loosen and tighten, like everything you can do....

Anyway, I broke a leaf on the front spring and bought a replacement pack. Dropped the rear swing hanger and left the axle attached to the front hanger and placed my wife (willing partner) underneath the axle, under the truck, holding a 3/4drive 1.25" Snap-on socket up on the nut (the 'U' bolts face downward). I put on a Williams 3/4 square drive swivel head breaker bar and slipped on a 3 foot length of 'cheater' pipe and tried to break the nut. No luck. I increased the 'cheater pipe' length to 5 feet and got serious on the end. Just as the nut started to give, I heard a loud pop, my wife screamed and I looked under the truck. The socket split in half and half came out like a rocket, right across her forehead. I rushed her to the emergency room and she got stiched back up. I look at the scar even today and think how lucky she was (and I) that she wasn't killed. No cheater pipes here.

Snap-on replaced the socket, no questions.....

 

[dstig1]

Yep, a very common method is leaving it on the pallet. You should not tightly secure a compressor to the floor as it needs to expand and contract freely as it will with pressure changes. The pallet provides enough give to allow for that. If you secure it to the floor you need to tighten down one bolt and leave the others snug but not tight so it can move a bit. It is possible to crack a foot or even the tank if the unit is over-constrained. In my case, the pallet allowed me to move it into place easily and will allow me to move it to our new house easily, when we get there.

And the manufacturer I bought it from said this is perfectly acceptable too.

 

[crazyal]

My 60 gallon Speedair was bolted to the cement, never again. The bottom of the tank started rusting like crazy. After removing the rust, making sure the metal is sound, and painting it I now have it mounted about 8 feet up out of the way.

The reason for removing them from the shipping pallet is that the vertical ones are top heavy. If not bolted down they can fall over very easily, I've seen people pull on the air hose and knock them over. Plus if you live in earthquake country you would not want to find it on it's side.

 

[crazyal]

Yep, a very common method is leaving it on the pallet. You should not tightly secure a compressor to the floor as it needs to expand and contract freely as it will with pressure changes. The pallet provides enough give to allow for that. If you secure it to the floor you need to tighten down one bolt and leave the others snug but not tight so it can move a bit. It is possible to crack a foot or even the tank if the unit is over-constrained. In my case, the pallet allowed me to move it into place easily and will allow me to move it to our new house easily, when we get there.

And the manufacturer I bought it from said this is perfectly acceptable too.

I have my compressor mounted to a wood frame with rubber isolators between the legs and the wood. The through bolts have nylon lock nuts on the bottom and are only tightened up just beyond finger tight.

 

[5030]

The proper way actually is to mount the compressor on machinery isolation pads (under each foot) and physically isolate the air piping from the outlet with a steel braided isolator. That allows the hard piping to be rigid but the thermal expansion and contraction as well as the inherent vibration from the compressor itself to be isolated from the hard line.

I guess that leaving a compressor on a shipping pallet is acceptable but it looks tacky. My unit is on the concrete shop floor, on pads and isolated from the dryer.

 

[Bird]

Daryl, I think now we're just taling about opinions or personal preference. You think leaving a compressor on the pallet is not the proper way while I know people in the business who say it is the proper way. You think leaving it on the pallet looks tacky; I think it looks sensible. Now in a big shop that you know isn't going to change, never need to be moved for any reason, including if you sell the property, then I'll agree that your way is just fine, although I see no advantage to it. Of course, whether mounted to the floor or left on the pallet, if you're going to use any rigid piping, I'd want a flexible connection from the compressor outlet to the rigid pipe. Personally, I used a rubber hose.

My current compressor is an upright 30 gallon portable, although it's never moved. But the prior owners of this place were into woodworking and there are a couple of bolts sticking up out of the concrete floor. I'd rather they weren't there, but located where they are isn't a real problem. Maybe that's the reason those darned bolts are there. They may have had an air compressor and didn't leave it on the pallet as they should have.:laughing: